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wrenchin sleds !!!!!!!!!!!!!111111111111 not beginner lessons!!11


f7ben

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1 minute ago, Zambroski said:

Yup.  But it's a 1.75 track so, options are limited.  The do take a bit more patience (and pnuematics) to install.  

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Bending right at the top of the tower exactly what I was thinking. :lol:

Is that a single stud on that one bar? :wtf:

 

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8 minutes ago, Reevester said:

Bending right at the top of the tower exactly what I was thinking. :lol:

Is that a single stud on that one bar? :wtf:

 

When you ride 120hp chick sleds that have fancy shocks and a top speed of under 60 the studs are basically just like monster stickers

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Just now, Reevester said:

Bending right at the top of the tower exactly what I was thinking. :lol:

Is that a single stud on that one bar? :wtf:

 

Yep. Long picks.  I've got a few bendies but not many.  I'm not real hard on tracks.  Spinning them is nothing good.

Yeah, I kept it "track legal".so 96

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About finished most of my preseason stuff up today.  Cleaned the primary clutch.  New puller and t60 socket worked great. Put the clutches on with a new belt.  Deflection was way off with the new belt so adjusted that.  Then put all the plastics back on.  License numbers came in the mail so I put those on too.

That's all I had time for today.  Needed to weld up some coyote traps for my dad. 

Forgot I did modify my old snowmobile stand to fit the new sled.  Took some round bar, bent it up, and welded it to the existing stand.

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So I am cleaning up the sleds and getting them ready to go. This is the 2007 crossfire 600 I picked up for the wife. It has 1000 miles on it. There was a pile of carbon on the fouled spark plugs, the exhaust sensor is covered in oil and the picture is of the throttle bodys. According to the guy I bought it off of it was only used as a wife and a young kids sled. It was never really rode on the trails  it was more of just a farm sled so probably never really got opened up. Would this cause the excess oil on things or am I looking for a larger issue?

20181014_130352.jpg

Edited by Tomas.
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58 minutes ago, f7ben said:

Looks like ypipe donut was not sealing well....pretty common

Thank you. Hopefully that is all it is. 

Noob question, I don't remember if on the secondary clutch you see the shims or not when it is all bolted on?

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1 hour ago, Tomas. said:

So I am cleaning up the sleds and getting them ready to go. This is the 2007 crossfire 600 I picked up for the wife. It has 1000 miles on it. There was a pile of carbon on the fouled spark plugs, the exhaust sensor is covered in oil and the picture is of the throttle bodys. According to the guy I bought it off of it was only used as a wife and a young kids sled. It was never really rode on the trails  it was more of just a farm sled so probably never really got opened up. Would this cause the excess oil on things or am I looking for a larger issue?

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he'll that looks. lean for that sled . they always blow back out of the pipe and run pig fat . there is also a trail of oil in the air box .

pipe sensor is a chev dramax pipe sensor . can't remember yrs but a,quick search on some forums it will pop up . if you clean and get a code for the sensor you can swap it out or just run it . just tossed a bit more fuel at it 

 

 

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Ok. Just found this gem. Do I need to pull the dd off or is it possible to pull the break assembly of and have room to pull off the drive shaft without moving the dd? 

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4 minutes ago, Tomas. said:

Ok. Just found this gem. Do I need to pull the dd off or is it possible to pull the break assembly of and have room to pull off the drive shaft without moving the dd? 

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Yep, replace that..lol..on those dirty oiled up carbs, see if you can find B3C Mechanic in a Bottle, use at least 4oz.. it will clean and lubricate those all up..

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How does one pull off the brake assembly. I have the dd off. Do I just take off all the nuts on the track side of the bulk head by the caliper and that removes it? Or do I need to pull the two hex head bolts first?

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I cant recall bake assembly removal off hand but that large shaft nut is peened and meant for single use. If you reuse it which I know I have make sure and get a pile of blue locktite under it

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28 minutes ago, Tomas. said:

How does one pull off the brake assembly. I have the dd off. Do I just take off all the nuts on the track side of the bulk head by the caliper and that removes it? Or do I need to pull the two hex head bolts first?

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good luck get a bar and a hammer that disk is a bitch to get off shaft . you also need a special  socket .

then just so you know it is 2 bearings in that break side housing and the inner one is a real cunt .

think it is a jamb but also 1 time use . but I have reused 

you need to pull DD and track  then get shaft pounded out through break side bearings . remember there is a rubber deal on that DD wedged in there covering one of the mounting bolts .

 

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so yeah pull DD. take  bolts out of break side so you can drop shaft at a angel to get track out of the way . then you can prop back in place and cut some 2x to wedge in tunnel so 1 side is not taking all the abuse from pounding the sbit out of that shaft 

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I got it all off. The shaft pushed out by hand. I used a hammer and punch to take the nut off. 

It is a weird 3 piece bearing. I wonder if I will need to go to cat for it or if I can get it from a bearing place.

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Little tank conversion work.  From what I understand, the 17 SX is efi so, it's a whole different tank so I couldn't just swap tanks with an older XC model. This type of mod is an old school, cheap way on the older SX models to get a few more gallons of "go juice".  

By tapping into the rear part of the tank which is sealed off and used only as seat structure it should add 3-4 gallons.  I decided to run a long a vent line from the rear to under the seat and down into the left side compartment for venting/drainage.  This should hopefully allow me to get away with not using a rollover check valve as I need the 6mm vent line to be as unobstructed as possible.  If it doesn't work, I'll have to go back in and modify it (I'll get Tool Kit to help me out  :lmao: ).

Meh...we'll see.  I don't really need the extra gas but, nice to have on some runs I'm gonna do this year.  Nothing worse than running low and on "hope".  Ughhh...

IMG_3844.jpgIMG_3845.jpgIMG_3849.jpg

 

 

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20 minutes ago, Zambroski said:

Little tank conversion work.  From what I understand, the 17 SX is efi so, it's a whole different tank so I couldn't just swap tanks with an older XC model. This type of mod is an old school, cheap way on the older SX models to get a few more gallons of "go juice".  

By tapping into the rear part of the tank which is sealed off and used only as seat structure it should add 3-4 gallons.  I decided to run a long a vent line from the rear to under the seat and down into the left side compartment for venting/drainage.  This should hopefully allow me to get away with not using a rollover check valve as I need the 6mm vent line to be as unobstructed as possible.  If it doesn't work, I'll have to go back in and modify it (I'll get Tool Kit to help me out  :lmao: ).

Meh...we'll see.  I don't really need the extra gas but, nice to have on some runs I'm gonna do this year.  Nothing worse than running low and on "hope".  Ughhh...

IMG_3844.jpgIMG_3845.jpgIMG_3849.jpg

 

 

I'm not even going to say it.😂

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