Zambroski Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 1 minute ago, irv said: I have never heard of that before so I just Googled it. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/597698/Re:_Brake_Cleaner_Safe_for_Alu I assume, like most things, people have their opinions about certain things but I honestly can't see it hurting anything? I have used it on plastic before with no ill effects so I honestly can't seeing it hurting aluminum. Meh....we can all believe the old wives tales we want. I heard it can get in the pits of aluminum. On new sheaves, prolly no big deal. But once they get run, not so smooth anymore. Hey, my buddy uses it all the time....by the fucking case. I use acetone...always have. Mayo vs.Miracle whip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irv Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 5 minutes ago, Zambroski said: Meh....we can all believe the old wives tales we want. I heard it can get in the pits of aluminum. On new sheaves, prolly no big deal. But once they get run, not so smooth anymore. Hey, my buddy uses it all the time....by the fucking case. I use acetone...always have. Mayo vs.Miracle whip. Not knocking acetone as it is also an excellent cleaner. I just never heard that about Brake cleaner and aluminum before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CheezusXR8 Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 6 minutes ago, Zambroski said: Meh....we can all believe the old wives tales we want. I heard it can get in the pits of aluminum. On new sheaves, prolly no big deal. But once they get run, not so smooth anymore. Hey, my buddy uses it all the time....by the fucking case. I use acetone...always have. Mayo vs.Miracle whip. Snacks prefers cool whip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKIQPilot Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 11 minutes ago, irv said: I have never heard of that before so I just Googled it. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/597698/Re:_Brake_Cleaner_Safe_for_Alu I assume, like most things, people have their opinions about certain things but I honestly can't see it hurting anything? I have used it on plastic before with no ill effects so I honestly can't seeing it hurting aluminum. I know that during my 30 years as a Drag Racer I never allowed brake clean near aluminum. Especially any billet or annodized aluminum. Maybe it was an old wives tale but its been around since the ‘70’s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zambroski Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 Just now, irv said: Not knocking acetone as it is also an excellent cleaner. I just never heard that about Brake cleaner and aluminum before. If I can get a buddy to join...he can make his argument for alcohol and a Mr. Clean magic eraser pad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zambroski Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 1 minute ago, CheezusXR8 said: Snacks prefers cool whip. This. This is why he supports Kid Rock for Senate!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irv Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 Just now, AKIQPilot said: I know that during my 30 years as a Drag Racer I never allowed brake clean near aluminum. Especially any billet or annodized aluminum. Maybe it was an old wives tale but its been around since the ‘70’s. I assume most of the brake cleaner was of the chlorinated type back then? I am not disagreeing with anyone here; it's just something I had never heard of before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKIQPilot Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 Just now, irv said: I assume most of the brake cleaner was of the chlorinated type back then? I am not disagreeing with anyone here; it's just something I had never heard of before. Definitely the chlorinated type. Hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CheezusXR8 Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 Just now, AKIQPilot said: I know that during my 30 years as a Drag Racer I never allowed brake clean near aluminum. Especially any billet or annodized aluminum. Maybe it was an old wives tale but its been around since the ‘70’s. Hey Tom, I got a stuck compression knob on the center shock on my 14 Freeride, pro 40 I believe . The needles get stuck if you go all the way in right? This an easy fix if I take it to a shock guy? Dealership was trying to get me to buy a whole new shock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKIQPilot Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 Just now, CheezusXR8 said: Hey Tom, I got a stuck compression knob on the center shock on my 14 Freeride, pro 40 I believe . The needles get stuck if you go all the way in right? This an easy fix if I take it to a shock guy? Dealership was trying to get me to buy a whole new shock. Its an easy fix as long as it hasnt come apart inside the clicker assy. Then its a $200 part that needs to be changed. If the clicker assy needs to be changed then get the upgraded knes from Ian at monster performance. He sells the completed updated clicker assy for basically what the dealer pays for them. The updated assy doesnt have a knob. It looks like the clicker on the RS race sled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CheezusXR8 Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 1 hour ago, AKIQPilot said: Its an easy fix as long as it hasnt come apart inside the clicker assy. Then its a $200 part that needs to be changed. If the clicker assy needs to be changed then get the upgraded knes from Ian at monster performance. He sells the completed updated clicker assy for basically what the dealer pays for them. The updated assy doesnt have a knob. It looks like the clicker on the RS race sled. So either way a shock guy is gonna have to look at it? Or is there a way for me to tell if it’s come apart inside? Or a trick to get it unstuck if it hasn’t come apart inside? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamgreen02 Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 Here is the SDS for the brake clean I'm using. Nothing here is any worse for aluminum clutches than pure acetone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Jimmy Snacks Posted October 3, 2018 Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted October 3, 2018 1 hour ago, CheezusXR8 said: Snacks prefers cool whip. And you prefer old Vaginas you have to peel apart like grilled cheese sandwiches.....what's your point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CheezusXR8 Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 10 minutes ago, Jimmy Snacks said: And you prefer old Vaginas you have to peel apart like grilled cheese sandwiches.....what's your point? Yer killing me Smalls. Relax Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Jimmy Snacks Posted October 3, 2018 Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted October 3, 2018 20 minutes ago, CheezusXR8 said: Yer killing me Smalls. Relax I love it when Stewie does that and I never said there was anything with old grilled cheese vag.....hell at this point I'd take anything!!!😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKIQPilot Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 1 hour ago, CheezusXR8 said: So either way a shock guy is gonna have to look at it? Or is there a way for me to tell if it’s come apart inside? Or a trick to get it unstuck if it hasn’t come apart inside? Thanks Well the shock is under 300psi of pressure. You could back the large outer part (the flat part as seen in the picture below) off with a crescent wrench like just a 1/4 turn and see if that free's up the knob then tighten it back up. Backing it off 1/4" will not let the orings come out of their sealing profile so It won't hurt anything. If the knob is still stuck after you back off the outer housing then the shock pretty much needs to come apart. One important note. Out of the entire clicker assembly the only part that can be replaced (short of the entire assy) is the knob. If the stem is bent or if it breaks off KYB doesn't offer that part separately from the rest of the clicker assy. You could pull the knob off first. Then back the outer housing then hold it with a crescent as a back up. Then use a smaller wrench to try and back off the stem where the knob attaches. IF it breaks you were more than likely gonna have to buy a new clicker assembly anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angry ginger Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 (edited) pop the knob and try it with an adjsutable, I had one stuck and with a little tug got it unstuck and orde it all last year with no issues. I was planning on sending them out for rebuild for this season but no need now Edited October 3, 2018 by Angry ginger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKIQPilot Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 Just now, Angry ginger said: pop the knob and try it with an adjsutable, I had one stuck and with a little tug got it unstuck and orde it all last year with no issues. I was planning on sending them out for rebuild for this season but no need now yep, that is probably the first thing to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CheezusXR8 Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 35 minutes ago, AKIQPilot said: yep, that is probably the first thing to try. 36 minutes ago, Angry ginger said: pop the knob and try it with an adjsutable, I had one stuck and with a little tug got it unstuck and orde it all last year with no issues. I was planning on sending them out for rebuild for this season but no need now Appreciate it, guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomas. Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 (edited) Well my night of a excitement for parts coming in has gone a little sour lol. So my 08 700 Dragon that I bought a little while ago was idling a little high. It was idling around 2300 instead of 1700. When I was looking at it, I pulled the plugs for a compression test and the plugs had no signs of a lean burn and compression was good. Get it home and do a little digging and see that the throttle body boot between the engine and throttle body is a know issue for getting weak and causing a high idle. Check mine and I find a little hole when you push on the throttle body. So today my new boot comes in. After figuring out how to take off the throttle body and dumping all kinds of coolant down the back of the engine, I finally get to the boot. After I get that off which came off in two pieces and it was super flimsy, I see the reeds.... So I a scale of 1-they're fucked, how bad of shape are my reeds in? Lmao Edited October 4, 2018 by Tomas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ez ryder Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 some nitro circus tonight . 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomas. Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 I am having a hard time finding any information on a reed replacement for the 700 cfi. Does anyone have any insight on what to put in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Jimmy Snacks Posted October 4, 2018 Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted October 4, 2018 8 minutes ago, Tomas. said: I am having a hard time finding any information on a reed replacement for the 700 cfi. Does anyone have any insight on what to put in? https://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=373 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomas. Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 (edited) 7 minutes ago, Jimmy Snacks said: https://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=373 I was looking at those but the one thing I found online for reeds was that the v force weren't worth the money on the 700 cfi. V force was my first thought as well. But I don't feel like spending $350 on something that isn't worth it. On a side note, this us-cad exchange rate sucks ass lol. Edited October 4, 2018 by Tomas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Jimmy Snacks Posted October 4, 2018 Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted October 4, 2018 4 minutes ago, Tomas. said: I was looking at those but the one thing I found online for reeds was that the v force weren't worth the money on the 700 cfi. V force was my first thought as well. But I don't feel like spending $350 on something that isn't worth it. On a side note, this us-cad exchange rate sucks ass lol. 212.00 for the OEM part. https://www.partspitstop.com/oemparts/a/pol/503ebfa4f8700222b848f1aa/engine-crankcase-all-options Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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