Crnr2Crnr 6,846 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 7 hours ago, ZR6000RR said: No. Just use your brain. The heating is not hard to figure out. what's the title of this thread ding dong? https://www.freedomsledder.com/index.php?/topic/42535-is-the-procross-chassis-prone-to-overheat/page/6/ no shit Sherlock... go back start from the beginning and maybe some of it will be absorbed into your noodle. riding on the lower torsion spring settings, dipping into fresh snow constantly and consistently running scratchers when conditions aren't ideal... oh, that's right, green goggles man finds that totally acceptable. are you going to order a Catalyst Jimbo? remember how many times you said Cat didn't need a new chassis? welcome back dimwit... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sled_Hed 3,503 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 7 minutes ago, Crnr2Crnr said: what's the title of this thread ding dong? https://www.freedomsledder.com/index.php?/topic/42535-is-the-procross-chassis-prone-to-overheat/page/6/ no shit Sherlock... go back start from the beginning and maybe some of it will be absorbed into your noodle. riding on the lower torsion spring settings, dipping into fresh snow constantly and consistently running scratchers when conditions aren't ideal... oh, that's right, green goggles man finds that totally acceptable. are you going to order a Catalyst Jimbo? remember how many times you said Cat didn't need a new chassis? welcome back dimwit... Do you not remember he said he gave his dealer a verbal order for one months ago?? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crnr2Crnr 6,846 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 8 minutes ago, Sled_Hed said: Do you not remember he said he gave his dealer a verbal order for one months ago?? nope, I don't follow him around and I'm HCS 'banned' regardless there's seven pages now of discussion about this chassis running on the warm side. are they only to be ridden in ideal conditions? if they require scratchers, tunnel flares, etc. to be ridden when conditions aren't ideal why aren't they on there from the factory? in my pics on the previous page you can see a difference of the amount of snow the prior chassis accumulates... unless your green goggles are on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sled_Hed 3,503 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 I'm sure he'll be along shortly for more name calling 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stinkipinki 471 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 On 1/3/2022 at 8:51 PM, soeaster said: I've had two Procross 800s and they both were prone to overheating. I've also had two ProCross machines and never had any issues with overheating. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badger** 4,432 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 On 2/7/2023 at 9:40 PM, Crnr2Crnr said: YES!!!! been through it twice now and this time was very similar to the experience with @Not greg b started out with a great after work ride with my brother, then hit the groom which was white concrete due to the temp drop. dropped the Cat 'don't use reverse' abortion coat hangers on the Snopro and things were fine, cable scratchers on the Procross... not exactly. Temp light and trailside relaxing three times. Lot of stops in the woods because there was no powder or loose snow for cooling. Have a theory on the Procross overheating issues which requires pictures which I can't take now. Will tomorrow. C2C this is why I'm not coming up this weekend, what fun is that having to dart around looking for snow. Still it looks like you guys had a good time. Off topic, Thank you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
p51mstg 630 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 My standard 800 Riot overheats easily. When it’s really cold, ice bridges over the heat exchanger, and I have to stop and kick it off. The frequency depends on whether scratchers are down. With scratchers, I have to stop probably every 3-5 miles. Without scratchers, it takes longer. I think the scratchers create a kind of snow dust that’s easier to convert to ice, it’s weird though. On hard pack trails or ice, it’s just the lack of snow in the tunnel that makes it overheat, and if I ride the edge of the trail I can usually get the temp to come back down. Riding dirt or city streets for any length of time is a real problem. It didn’t occur to me to lower the torsion springs a notch, might have to try that. My old Polaris with running board heat exchangers could probably cool a nuclear submarine, that thing never overheats. Ever. And, my feet are always nice and toastie. On the other hand, don’t get that lumber wagon stuck, no fun. Good discussion, and I’m a big fan of sharing so that others don’t have to waste time on things like this. We all have a brain, and what we use it for depends on how much we can learn from others. I just checked, and this is a “no bashing” area, so I’ll keep my comments positive. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ZR6000RR 286 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 3 hours ago, Crnr2Crnr said: what's the title of this thread ding dong? https://www.freedomsledder.com/index.php?/topic/42535-is-the-procross-chassis-prone-to-overheat/page/6/ no shit Sherlock... go back start from the beginning and maybe some of it will be absorbed into your noodle. riding on the lower torsion spring settings, dipping into fresh snow constantly and consistently running scratchers when conditions aren't ideal... oh, that's right, green goggles man finds that totally acceptable. are you going to order a Catalyst Jimbo? remember how many times you said Cat didn't need a new chassis? welcome back dimwit... Money has been down for months 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Premium 218 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 (edited) In our group at least it's almost always the Poos that have over-heating issues. I had the ice bridge that several have referred to on my R-XC maybe once or twice, but I think I've seen my temp light once on my procross sleds, and that was on my turbo in extremely icy/hardpack after a groom-thaw-refreeze. Edited February 10 by Premium 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crnr2Crnr 6,846 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 3 hours ago, Sled_Hed said: I'm sure he'll be along shortly for more name calling let's hope not I already have the resident name caller on ignore 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crnr2Crnr 6,846 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 3 hours ago, Sled_Hed said: I'm sure he'll be along shortly for more name calling let's hope not I already have the resident name caller on ignore Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnstang 1,626 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 4 hours ago, Crnr2Crnr said: nope, I don't follow him around and I'm HCS 'banned' regardless there's seven pages now of discussion about this chassis running on the warm side. are they only to be ridden in ideal conditions? if they require scratchers, tunnel flares, etc. to be ridden when conditions aren't ideal why aren't they on there from the factory? in my pics on the previous page you can see a difference of the amount of snow the prior chassis accumulates... unless your green goggles are on. I've seen scratchers on every make of sled and I'm pretty sure some people run them all the time regardless of conditions. Did you ever think that the PC you ride with didn't cool as well as you because it had cable scratchers that don't work as well as your wire scratchers? I guess you can call people names but if others do it that's bad. You only need to scroll up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
taperk600 105 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 6 hours ago, stinkipinki said: I've also had two ProCross machines and never had any issues with overheating. I've had 16 ProCross sleds. At least 1 of every year up until the 2023 when I decided enough of the same old same old...with a bigger price tag. Only 1 of these never flashed the temp light..... 2015 4000 LXR (500cc 2 stroke). And the 14 6RR, 17 Roger Skime, 19 6-LTD 137 rarely would unless the conditions were really hard packed / low snow. The rest were 800s in 129 or 137. And all run warm and could use scratchers to aid in cooling when conditions weren't great. And, as others have said, mounting further ahead on the skid does seem to help get more snow up into the tunnel and on the coolers. Of the 800s I have had, the 12 F8LTD was the worst for running warm, even after doing the flat tunnel update. Followed by the 15 RR 129 with a 920 Dakota big bore. And the 20, 21, & 22 RRs have been the best at maintaining "normal" temps while riding. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Premium 218 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 58 minutes ago, taperk600 said: I've had 16 ProCross sleds. At least 1 of every year up until the 2023 when I decided enough of the same old same old...with a bigger price tag. Only 1 of these never flashed the temp light..... 2015 4000 LXR (500cc 2 stroke). And the 14 6RR, 17 Roger Skime, 19 6-LTD 137 rarely would unless the conditions were really hard packed / low snow. The rest were 800s in 129 or 137. And all run warm and could use scratchers to aid in cooling when conditions weren't great. And, as others have said, mounting further ahead on the skid does seem to help get more snow up into the tunnel and on the coolers. Of the 800s I have had, the 12 F8LTD was the worst for running warm, even after doing the flat tunnel update. Followed by the 15 RR 129 with a 920 Dakota big bore. And the 20, 21, & 22 RRs have been the best at maintaining "normal" temps while riding. How do you like your VR1 650? Not trying to derail the thread...do you have a link to a thread expounding your thoughts? I spent some time on an XC 850 this past weekend. Very fun sled! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Premium 218 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 For what it's worth, I've found that the "harder" you ride these Procross machines the cooler they stay. Which only makes sense...more track spin throwing snow and the water pump impeller spinning faster off the crank. But I'm talking a difference of say 125 degree vs 102 degree coolant temp. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stinkipinki 471 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 (edited) 2 hours ago, taperk600 said: I've had 16 ProCross sleds. At least 1 of every year up until the 2023 when I decided enough of the same old same old...with a bigger price tag. Only 1 of these never flashed the temp light..... Interesting, I've known many people with ProCross sleds over the years, Cat and Yamaha, owned a 12 F800 and 14 Viper XTX myself, put good miles on both, never had either get hot. Don't know anyone that overheated outside of a higly modified F1100 Turbo. The 160HP Zuke 800 is a motor ive put 7K miles on between two sleds, a 2010 F8 and 2012 F800, never had any type of temp issue or know anybody that did. Edited February 10 by stinkipinki Quote Link to post Share on other sites
soeaster 287 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 10 hours ago, stinkipinki said: I've also had two ProCross machines and never had any issues with overheating. Happy for you! Just my experience... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
taperk600 105 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 2 hours ago, Premium said: How do you like your VR1 650? Not trying to derail the thread...do you have a link to a thread expounding your thoughts? I spent some time on an XC 850 this past weekend. Very fun sled! I do not yet. Just trying to get out of break in.... only 92 miles so far. I will post something once / if I get more time on it.... 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
taperk600 105 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 1 hour ago, stinkipinki said: Interesting, I've known many people with ProCross sleds over the years, Cat and Yamaha, owned a 12 F800 and 14 Viper XTX myself, put good miles on both, never had either get hot. Don't know anyone that overheated outside of a higly modified F1100 Turbo. The 160HP Zuke 800 is a motor ive put 7K miles on between two sleds, a 2010 F8 and 2012 F800, never had any type of temp issue or know anybody that did. I guess there is a difference between running hot and over heating. I've also never "overheated" one either. Whether stock or modified. But almost everyone I know have had issues with them running hot and needing to run scratchers and occasionally had to pull over and let them cool off. Much more often than the other brands riding with us...... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sled_Hed 3,503 Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 On my buddies Polaris Voyageur 600 it was as simple as the snow flap. In good conditions his would get warm and he'd have to stop. One day he was riding along side if me and I noticed the snow was going under the flap. Apparently he backed into a hard snow chunk and it bent forward. We tied it slightly back with a nylon strap and he doesn't have issues anymore. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
racinfarmer 6,976 Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 On 2/9/2023 at 8:03 PM, Cat45 said: Between the lines designs brackets and duraflex cables. Moving them farther forward made a huge difference. You can see in the pic the original hole i used and how much further forward they are now Do you need to drill the idler wheel holes in the rail larger? Spent the afternoon on one of the 19s running a solid 140-155 today. Tomorrow one of the 14's comes out to be a degenerate on. Seems like those stay cooler in low snow conditions. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ZR6000RR 286 Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 16 minutes ago, racinfarmer said: Do you need to drill the idler wheel holes in the rail larger? Spent the afternoon on one of the 19s running a solid 140-155 today. Tomorrow one of the 14's comes out to be a degenerate on. Seems like those stay cooler in low snow conditions. No. The bolts are the same. I use the bracket while bolting the scratcher to the rail. Works great! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cat45 1,582 Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 43 minutes ago, racinfarmer said: Do you need to drill the idler wheel holes in the rail larger? Spent the afternoon on one of the 19s running a solid 140-155 today. Tomorrow one of the 14's comes out to be a degenerate on. Seems like those stay cooler in low snow conditions. Yes you have to drill the hole out bigger for the cable mount, the holder bracket you don't need to Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crnr2Crnr 6,846 Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 (edited) 20 hours ago, mnstang said: I've seen scratchers on every make of sled and I'm pretty sure some people run them all the time regardless of conditions. Did you ever think that the PC you ride with didn't cool as well as you because it had cable scratchers that don't work as well as your wire scratchers? couple things which were problems... he purchased and mounted the cable scratchers himself (without experience) and he mounted them too high on the rail. basically, they're curb feelers if you're old enough to know what those were. yesterday in good snow conditions I ran the 720 which I almost always have the scratchers down on (because I refuse to jeopardize that engine) and was running around 100 degrees consistently. brothers RXC was running in the 120-130 range. as a test, on a section I knew there was good snow I lifted the scratchers on the 720 and was running in the low 130's within a couple miles, and the scratchers went right back down. so... on his RXC I'm removing the curb feelers and installing either wire Cat scratchers which I know work very well or the Doo wire scratchers. if we use the Cat one's he's just going to always remember not to back up with them deployed, or the Doo ones can be used in reverse. the Cat coat hangers throw up a ton of snow and ice. Edited February 11 by Crnr2Crnr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crnr2Crnr 6,846 Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 https://shop.arcticcat.com/7639-969#/s/ARC//7639-969//1/y anyone else have experience with the tunnel flares? can't seem to find any different part #'s for 129/137/146 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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