I see Arctic Cat is trickling out some more details.  Arctic Insider had some new info a couple of weeks ago, but this article talks about the same stuff and goes into more detail:

Exclusive Insight on Catalyst Design from Arctic Cat Engineering

Just this week, the latest Snow Tech magazine had a nice writeup on it, as well.

Does anyone have more info?

If the stars stay aligned and I can ride one in the near future, what would you like to know?

 

Edited January 6, 20232 yr by p51mstg

17 minutes ago, Palu49 said:

We’ve been using the 1.507 on them. They come with 150 thousandths in them out of the crate and most of them are pretty much dead nuts on there but a couple have taken 180 thou to be aligned properly. One of those was run before I messed with shims and the thing was idling at like 18mph track speed and squealing like a bastard with the brake on.

  Thanks for post.. 

1 hour ago, jonlafon1 said:

Thanks.. I thought the same thing about maybe the composite wearing or breaking.. Thinking you would have to beat it pretty hard but time will tell

I've not had any break on my sleds but had seen some that were broke on some shocks I've rebuilt.  Wenzlaff Performance has come up with have a full steel heim joint kit that you can buy for WE.

 

Cataract #2 is ready to find some snow for break-in.

32 minutes ago, racinfarmer said:

Cataract #2 is ready to find some snow for break-in.

Pic please 

10 hours ago, racinfarmer said:

Cataract #2 is ready to find some snow for break-in.

It’s 50 here right now you lucky bastard 

15 hours ago, Palu49 said:

It’s 50 here right now you lucky bastard 

Oh no, it has been raining here the last 36+ hours.  0 snow.

On 12/15/2023 at 10:54 PM, Doug said:

Pic please 

I mean, I guess it looks like any other RXC other then numbers and the mid-height windscreen.

I'm not posting too many photos to keep the owners out of this shitshow.

7 hours ago, racinfarmer said:

I mean, I guess it looks like any other RXC other then numbers and the mid-height windscreen.

I'm not posting too many photos to keep the owners out of this shitshow.

Do you guys have number plates or decals somewhere? I have Rox plates from my 17 but not 100% sure I wanna drill into the tunnel. I can get 1 rivet in them if I put them on the battery box or whatever you wanna call the back plastic behind the tank.

Number plate riveted to the tunnel.  

2 things to check coming from someone who got some seat time testing on their catalyst this weekend.

Double check jam nuts on the upper ball joint

Check and throw zip ties on the short oil lines between the oil pump on bottom of the tank and the T in the main oil line. 2 lines about an inch long right off the bottom of the tank

On 12/10/2023 at 6:16 PM, racinfarmer said:

I changed 3 yesterday alone.

Have fun changing you belt on the trail.

dumb

the outer sheave is held on by the bolt, and not part of the secondary at all times?  oh brother... 

On 12/14/2023 at 6:32 AM, jonlafon1 said:

Pulled front shocks. Fox QS3R.  They changed the bushings in the eye of the front shocks top and bottom.. Interesting.. The middle piece is metal the outside halves are some kind composite. (think light weight!). Then heavy o ring.. Not sure about durability on this but going to give them a pass and see how these wear so to speak. One thing I noticed is if you grab the shock res. after its mounted up on sled and slightly turn it side to side it has some flex. (definitely more then procross)  I would actually think MAYBE this would help the shocks/shaft flex  ???  Im not a shock guru so just a guess. Definitely different then the old metal bushing inserts. I LIGHTLY greased the innards with a good water proof grease (Maxima).. Will see how they wear.  Otherwise is pretty tight in between the A arms  for shocks with res ( no issues with this IMO). The arms seem to be cocked(angled) differently also.

Otb, probably Delrin

tough stuff, just upgraded the 500's front shock bushings to it for like... $40 for four.  Is it sort of brown rather than black? 

On 12/11/2023 at 7:02 PM, racinfarmer said:

You don't, kind of.  The secondary doesn't even float, which is disappointing.  I'm hoping someone comes up with a better solution for that or an adapter to a Team or something.

Oh yeah, the bolt that holds that secondary on, make sure you torque that bitch to spec or your bolt backs out and secondary falls apart.

Not sure what direction we'll go yet.  Probably cut the little button off and muscle the belts in and out.

Dull the sharp edges down and bring a pair of cut resistant gloves with is my plan.

Cat hasn’t had a floating secondary on a consumer sled since the firecat days. All the diamond drive, procross sleds have all had fixed secondary clutches. In the early pc days the aftermarket tried selling float kits to help with the belt blowers and those did nothing other than cause the clutch to eat the jack shaft because the splines aren’t long enough to support the floating clutch. Now that they are using the boss design on everything they can’t float it as they use the jack shaft as the base of the clutch. That’s why you can pull the sheave off when you remove the bolt. On normal clutches the clutch has it owns shaft it is built on and slides over the jack shaft. 

Just having a conversation with Procross225 via fb messenger and I didnt even realize this.

The Rxc has a 1.9 ratio

All other flat land sleds - regardless of 129/137 is a 2.2 ratio and uses a different driver set than the rxc

0728-281 is the number of the 129/137 driver assembly but it is not found anywhere.

39 minutes ago, fortune46x said:

Just having a conversation with Procross225 via fb messenger and I didnt even realize this.

The Rxc has a 1.9 ratio

All other flat land sleds - regardless of 129/137 is a 2.2 ratio and uses a different driver set than the rxc

0728-281 is the number of the 129/137 driver assembly but it is not found anywhere.

That would make sense if the R-XC is using 8 tooth drivers for more terrain clearance at the track shaft.

37 minutes ago, Premium said:

That would make sense if the R-XC is using 8 tooth drivers for more terrain clearance at the track shaft.

its the difference of exvol. and invol, drivers. not sure if they are both 8 tooth or not will be interesting to see if there are some bigger legs on the rxc or not

 

I think you need to do a chaincase conversion on it.

On 12/25/2023 at 12:38 AM, Not greg b said:

Cat hasn’t had a floating secondary on a consumer sled since the firecat days. All the diamond drive, procross sleds have all had fixed secondary clutches. In the early pc days the aftermarket tried selling float kits to help with the belt blowers and those did nothing other than cause the clutch to eat the jack shaft because the splines aren’t long enough to support the floating clutch. Now that they are using the boss design on everything they can’t float it as they use the jack shaft as the base of the clutch. That’s why you can pull the sheave off when you remove the bolt. On normal clutches the clutch has it owns shaft it is built on and slides over the jack shaft. 

RXC's are floated.  

19 minutes ago, racinfarmer said:

RXC's are floated.  

How? They use the same two-piece secondary.

5 minutes ago, ZR6000RR said:

How? They use the same two-piece secondary.

Procross RXC's are a floated clutch.

12 minutes ago, racinfarmer said:

Procross RXC's are a floated clutch.

my 22 and 23 were the boss two piece secondarys and didnt float?  unless theres something I am not seeing with it. I know you know your stuff , Im just trying to understand the floating notion of the two piece clutch

16 minutes ago, fortune46x said:

my 22 and 23 were the boss two piece secondarys and didnt float?  unless theres something I am not seeing with it. I know you know your stuff , Im just trying to understand the floating notion of the two piece clutch

08 to 20 floated on the splines for sure, not sure on 21, I guess I really didn't pay attention on my 22 since I raiding my friend's parts stash and just sent it with minimal clutch work.

Edited December 26, 20231 yr by racinfarmer

49 minutes ago, racinfarmer said:

08 to 20 floated on the splines for sure, not sure on 21, I guess I really didn't pay attention on my 22 since I raiding my friend's parts stash and just sent it with minimal clutch work.

Here's my experience: My 15 R-XC had a small amount of "float" that also caused it to destroy the splines on both the jackshaft and Team secondary. I ended up replacing both the Team secondary and the jackshaft, and then removing a spacing washer to tighten it up and remove the float. I saw no difference in top speed or belt life.

 

Edited December 26, 20231 yr by Premium

15 minutes ago, Premium said:

Here's my experience: My 15 R-XC had a small amount of "float" that also caused it to destroy the splines on both the jackshaft and Team secondary. I ended up replacing both the Team secondary and the jackshaft, and then removing a spacing washer to tighten it up and remove the float. I saw no difference in top speed or belt life.

 

Did you try a little grease on the splines?

3 minutes ago, racinfarmer said:

Did you try a little grease on the splines?

I did not.  Was dry as a bone from the factory and by the time I discovered the wear I elected to remove the float.  I used to grease the old keyed shaft floating secondaries, of course.

12 minutes ago, Premium said:

I did not.  Was dry as a bone from the factory and by the time I discovered the wear I elected to remove the float.  I used to grease the old keyed shaft floating secondaries, of course.

For ice racing, I'd shim them down to keep some amount of float but limit it. 

Usually would line it up the best I could, they go off the IR temp gun on the sheeves and shim.

Just shims from the McMaster.

Terrain I'd rip all them out and let it run with whatever float it had.

My 15 was really good and never had clutch issues.  My 2 16's were horrible and never could get them to go.  Had a similar issue on one of the 16's as you did your 15.