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wrenchin sleds !!!!!!!!!!!!!111111111111 not beginner lessons!!11


f7ben

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1 minute ago, Jimmy Snacks said:

Sounds good....I was just doing some reading on those Evols and holy crap I hope my dumbass can figure out all the adjustments. :lol:

They are simple.  Once you get them set up you will never touch them again.  I would start with 210psi in the EVOL chamber and 75psi in the main chamber.  

I would set slow speed clicker 12 clicks from fully backed out.  I would set the high speed at 8 clicks from fully backed out.I would set the rebound 10 clicks from fully backed out.  

Those settings are about 30% of the usable dampening adjustments.  That is where I set all Evols after servicing.  (except race sled shocks)

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This is a typical Fox compression valve with High and Low speed adjustments.  High Speed on the outside takes a 17mm wrench.  Low speed takes a flat blade screw driver.  

There are typically 32 clicks of adjustment on the low speed and 24 clicks on the high speed.  The rebound adjuster has between 18 and 22 clicks depending on the vintage of the EVOL shock.  

01-03-004_1024x1024.jpg?v=1478900956

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2 minutes ago, AKIQPilot said:

They are simple.  Once you get them set up you will never touch them again.  I would start with 210psi in the EVOL chamber and 75psi in the main chamber.  

I would set slow speed clicker 12 clicks from fully backed out.  I would set the high speed at 8 clicks from fully backed out.I would set the rebound 10 clicks from fully backed out.  

Those settings are about 30% of the usable dampening adjustments.  That is where I set all Evols after servicing.  (except race sled shocks)

Perfect.:thumbsup:

 

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1 minute ago, AKIQPilot said:

This is a typical Fox compression valve with High and Low speed adjustments.  High Speed on the outside takes a 17mm wrench.  Low speed takes a flat blade screw driver.  

There are typically 32 clicks of adjustment on the low speed and 24 clicks on the high speed.  The rebound adjuster has between 18 and 22 clicks depending on the vintage of the EVOL shock.  

01-03-004_1024x1024.jpg?v=1478900956

Pretty straightforward system....maybe not as simple as knobs but no biggie.

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Just now, Jimmy Snacks said:

Pretty straightforward system....maybe not as simple as knobs but no biggie.

Fox sells a little tool for about $25.  You don't really need it though.  Once you get them set up you will rarely change anything except maybe the air pressure.  You will want a pump if the shocks don't come with one.  

Clicker adjuster tool

img_4239-jpg.100888

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3 minutes ago, AKIQPilot said:

Fox sells a little tool for about $25.  You don't really need it though.  Once you get them set up you will rarely change anything except maybe the air pressure.  You will want a pump if the shocks don't come with one.  

Clicker adjuster tool

img_4239-jpg.100888

Aahhhh...slick little tool and I'll check with Ben tomorrow about a pump.

Edited by Jimmy Snacks
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1 minute ago, Jimmy Snacks said:

Aahhhh...slick little tool and I'll check with Ben tomorrow about a pump.

Brand new pumps are a little over $30.  Ian probably sells them.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fox-Shox-Dual-Face-Air-Pump-027-00-008/362431679868?hash=item54629c8d7c:g:AOAAAOSwpaZbk-dK

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46 minutes ago, AKIQPilot said:

We fly back and forth.  Way cheaper and faster.  

I charge $30 each for a complete service.  I charge $5 each to revalve. 

I would suggest 10wt oil for the CF6.  Other than that it probably doesn't need revalving unless it's for a aggressive rider.  

On the Dragon hopefully it has the RydeFX shocks in the rear.  If it has the Fox PSS shocks there is almost nothing that can be done with them short of welding up all the bleed holes in the sleeve and redrilling them to .040".  It's not all that easy to do.  The Fox PSS shocks were a huge mistake by Polaris IMO.     I haven't serviced any of the Air 2.0 shocks but they can't be that difficult.  I'm just assuming your Dragon still has all the stock shocks on it?  RydeFX front and rear?  

I send and receive shocks through Canada Post all the time.  Takes about 6 days longer going back just to get through customs.  Coming to me they are normally here in 3 days or less.  

 

The dragon has Ryde FX all the way around. So that is $35 usd per shock? 

The CRF only has 1000 miles on it and the person riding it is the farthest thing from "aggressive rider" lmao. She will probably be scared of it for the first year or so lol.

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1 minute ago, Tomas. said:

The dragon has Ryde FX all the way around. So that is $35 usd per shock? 

The CRF only has 1000 miles on it and the person riding it is the farthest thing from "aggressive rider" lmao. She will probably be scared of it for the first year or so lol.

Yep.  $35 usd for complete service and revalve.  

I would keep the stock 5wt oil in the CrossFire then if it's for a non aggressive rider.  

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1 hour ago, Jimmy Snacks said:

Sounds good Tom...thanks.

Just sent an email to Ian.

I was looking for different center shock spring upgrades and ran across this thread from Ian.  He sells a center shock tender spring upgrade kit for the TNT.  It was $60 back in 2016.  I think this is all you will need.  

https://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/1303337-xtnt-and-blizzard-center-shock-spring-upgrade/

post-7657-0-19235400-1472160369.jpg

Edited by AKIQPilot
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One more stupid question (won't be the last) about the center shock...would it be worth upgrading to an XRS Shock or is the stocker with a better spring good enough? There is guy on DT with one for sale but he hasn't given me a price yet. 

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40 minutes ago, Jimmy Snacks said:

Ian has a 150# spring for  60 bucks shipped...good or heavier yet?

Im not positive what the stock spring rate is to be honest. Ian would be able to give you the best advice based on your weight and where/how you plan to ride. 

If the xrs shock is the remot rezy clicker then its a very good shock. If its not a remote rezy clicker then its no better than the one you have. 

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1 hour ago, Kev144 said:

Gonna see about getting my rear walkers serviced.   Pain in the ass getting the skid back in on your own :lol: 

Pizza box between skid and track so it doesn't get hung up on the drive lugs:thumb:

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1 hour ago, Kev144 said:

Gonna see about getting my rear walkers serviced.   Pain in the ass getting the skid back in on your own :lol: 

You put it in with the torsion springs loose right?  

Skids are pretty easy for me normally. Sometimes they can be a pain if they are the types of skids with cross shafts instead on bushings and nuts. 

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Just now, AKIQPilot said:

You put it in with the torsion springs loose right?  

Skids are pretty easy for me normally. Sometimes they can be a pain if they are the types of skids with cross shafts instead on bushings and nuts. 

I do its just a pain.  It's pretty easy with two people    gotta find a local guy who rebuilds shocks 

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Just now, Kev144 said:

I do its just a pain.  It's pretty easy with two people    gotta find a local guy who rebuilds shocks 

Does your front torque arm have a shaft or is it a bushing with a bolt and nut for each side. 

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3 minutes ago, Kev144 said:

Nut and bolt on each side 

Yep. That style is pretty easy for me. What I do is tip the sled on the side using a 5gal bucket under the handle bars. Pull the track out so its a big loop. Drop the skid into the track rail tips first. Then, I align the front torque arm with the bolt hole without the bushing in the torque arm,  Drop the bolt in. Then push the bushing in place using my foot to lift and balance the back of the skid. Once that bolt is in i put the nut on handy. 

Next I put the bolt into the other side but I put it in backwards from the skid side out through the tunnel. Its real easy to line up tge hole in the bushibg with the hole in the tunnel and just push the bolt in backwards. 

Next I put the upper rear skid bolt in and tighten it. 

Next I flip the sled over using the bucket under the handle bar end and put the second rear skid bolt in and tighten it. 

Next I pull the bolt out thats in backwards and put it in the correct way. 

Next tighten all the bolts and nuts

Lastly i hook the torsion springs on their perches.

I never touch the rear axle, no need to loosen it or adjust it when just pulling or installing the skid. 

On an IQr i can get a skid out in under 3 minutes and back in and ready to ride in under 5. By myself. 

Studded tracks take a little more caution but are still pretty simple. 

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