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2024 Arctic Cat Catalyst 'Chassis' details?


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56 minutes ago, Not greg b said:

I got digging through my garbage pile and found a rusted bolt that fits in the hole for the belt removal tool. I am going to use that to slightly open the sheaves and “set the belt deflection looser” to improve the hole shot as the clutch will be able to grip the belt better with out it hanging so far out the secondary. Then I will get a shorter belt from like a 1971 Polaris colt so it will run deeper into the secondary and let this thing top end a thunder cat. Should cost me 5 bucks at the junk yard tomorrow. 

Set it with the pre 1900 snowmobile race manual. Oil the fuckers up with Sperm whale oil. Dont drink it though as it is not what you probably hope. 

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Just now, ZR6000RR said:

Set it with the pre 1900 snowmobile race manual. Oil the fuckers up with Sperm whale oil. Dont drink it though as it is not what you probably hope. 

When the clutch locks up you can pour a bottle of oil on the belt and the sled will move again

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2 minutes ago, Not greg b said:

When the clutch locks up you can pour a bottle of oil on the belt and the sled will move again

I like to marinade my clutches in gear oil in the heated ultrasonic. 

Get it good and ripping hot, then let them chooch for a few hours humming away.

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Just now, racinfarmer said:

I like to marinade my clutches in gear oil in the heated ultrasonic. 

Get it good and ripping hot, then let them chooch for a few hours humming away.

I noticed after you heat the clutches all day with the excessive belt heat, reverse doesn’t work and the thing barks worse than big bird when Barney sticks a finger in his ass when you put it in reverse and dies. Once it cools off it works fine 

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1 hour ago, Not greg b said:

the twin to my sled fouled out a set of plugs this weekend. Dealer called and asked if mine had any issues with that and it didn’t. However my 2015 600 did foul a set of plugs just after brake in and it was a bear to start and finally died. New plugs it was good to go. 

Plugs, new gas with a little race gas mixed in.. Then fuel pressure test if it still falls down on the smash.. Got something going on. 

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2 minutes ago, Not greg b said:

I noticed after you heat the clutches all day with the excessive belt heat, reverse doesn’t work and the thing barks worse than big bird when Barney sticks a finger in his ass when you put it in reverse and dies. Once it cools off it works fine 

Holy shit! Really? You are not a smart person. Unreal! No help out there for people like you. Quit sledding. All you do is drive up insurance rates and sell destroyed sleds to unsuspecting people. Seriously!

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10 minutes ago, ZR6000RR said:

Holy shit! Really? You are not a smart person. Unreal! No help out there for people like you. Quit sledding. All you do is drive up insurance rates and sell destroyed sleds to unsuspecting people. Seriously!

It’s probably a manufactures defect if the clutch is squeals when you hit the reverse button and dies. Warranty issue. It only does it when i ride the rail grades and back into my garage. That is the only time I use the reverse. 

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8 minutes ago, Not greg b said:

It’s probably a manufactures defect if the clutch is squeals when you hit the reverse button and dies. Warranty issue. It only does it when i ride the rail grades and back into my garage. That is the only time I use the reverse. 

No. It is the rider who clearly abuses the sled above any and all. I hope your dealer tells you to fuck right off!

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Just now, ZR6000RR said:

No. It is the rider who clearly abuses the sled above any and all. I hope your dealer tells you to fuck right off!

They will say this is good information we need. Make it fail and we will fix it. I think my rusted bolt idea will solve the issue 

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Just now, Not greg b said:

They will say this is good information we need. Make it fail and we will fix it. I think my rusted bolt idea will solve the issue 

I will send this in and wipe out your warranty. Not that I have any pull.

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You know what is really awesome on the CTEC 6000's?

When you put them in reverse before they are fully up to tempt, they stall, then you get to pull that bitch until it decides to start.

Helps if you crack the flappy bit open a bit, some they still fight sometimes.

Or if you shut them down before they idle down, same thing.

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Just now, ZR6000RR said:

What?

You are going to cancel his warranty - insinuating you’re something big 

“not that I have any pull” trying to downplay your importance. 
 

I bet cat has a table set up Daily to meet you at the daily factory tours , what is your roll at cat ? I guess better yet who do you know ? Or is that too secret Norman county government info and you can’t share it. 

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1 minute ago, fortune46x said:

You are going to cancel his warranty - insinuating you’re something big 

“not that I have any pull” trying to downplay your importance. 
 

I bet cat has a table set up Daily to meet you at the daily factory tours , what is your roll at cat ? I guess better yet who do you know ? Or is that too secret Norman county government info and you can’t share it. 

I dont share with village idiots like you.

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15 minutes ago, racinfarmer said:

You know what is really awesome on the CTEC 6000's?

When you put them in reverse before they are fully up to tempt, they stall, then you get to pull that bitch until it decides to start.

Helps if you crack the flappy bit open a bit, some they still fight sometimes.

Or if you shut them down before they idle down, same thing.

Wow? Let them idle down, while taking off your helmet. 30 seconds. Why would you try to move it before the temp light says go? Btw. Have used reverse before light shut off and it worked. Not below zero temps, but? 

Edited by ZR6000RR
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Just now, ZR6000RR said:

Wow? Let them idle down, while taking off your helmet. 30 seconds. Why would you try to move it before the temp light says go? Btw. Have used reverse before light shut off and it worked. Not below zero temps, but? 

Love electric start. Never misses. 

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