@Ziemann - well?  Anxiously awaiting your ride review and making the Madcatters smile as you bash your new VR1 

When i sat on one the seat seemed a bit to firm. Thoughts? 

Well, it's been six hours so he's either still riding it or has been eaten by wolves.

Please post link to site for condolences and memorial donations when confirmed.

Doggy Style?

It's 0230, and I'm at work as I read this. I will put together a comprehensive review in the next day or two. Initial impressions are positive. 

Some comments:

1. The seat is weird. A little small and a little slippery. But I am thinking that it might break in.

2. The 137 Ice Ripper track causes a lot of push in the corners when I am riding it aggressively. Additional tweaking required. May be as simple as Shaper bars.

3. The owners manual states that the WE Velocity shocks need to be adjusted 5 clicks from full hard. I am reading on HCS, that is way off.

4. I'm sporting wood over the 7S display. The most more I play with it, the cooler it gets. Wow. Where in the hell is the USB pigtail? Isn't it suppose to be right there behind the display when you open the compartment? I don't see one? Maybe on this version it is upgraded via wifi?

5. I'm 6'5". The fit is ok. I may need another inch on the bar riser so I can sit back just a little bit more. I haven't found the perfect handlebar position yet, but obviously I am still getting used to it.

So far, I only have 105.5 miles on it, so it is way too early to draw any solid conclusions, but I can tell that with some tweaking it will be a great sled.

I've read a lot about the Night blade headlights. It seems that a lot of folks felt that it was a step down from the Axys. It certainly isn't as intense as Cat's LED headlight, but I really like it. The Cat LED headlight caused a ton of glare in heavy snow dust. The Night blade seems much better balanced. 

Oh, and there's that whole headlight condensation thing.....

 

That headlight condensation has been a hot topic since last year, and supposedly the added venting for 2022 was put in place to address that.  Oops - not so much, from the looks of it!!  I'm assuming you were just running the stock 4" carbides for the shake down run?  That's what I plan on doing with mine (if it arrives) and conditions are so-so.  Surprisingly, those carbides hold their own if the conditions are decent.  Your comment about maybe needing a little more room with your bars ... give Pete a call to see if they can get you an Assault riser to replace the stock one.  I did that with my VR1 last season, to help make enough room for the handguards and a mid windshield.  Although I never got to ride my sled, sitting on it in the garage it felt noticeably better with that Assault riser installed.

As you get more seat time, and things dialed in, it'll be good to hear your full report (good and bad).  Although, don't get too giddy over that display ... some of the Cat faithful will tell you it's stupid, and that all you need is an analog setup 

Water Vapor will always be an issue with LED headlights, it should work its self out with some heat cycles. 

We would see it all the time in aftermarket headlights in jeeps. people always wanting replacement. 
https://www.jwspeaker.com/blog/headlight-condensation-3/

There was a trick get rid of the vapor, remove the membrane on the back and place by a heater for a night then replace the membrane, not that I would try that on your headlight but just something we would do for the cheaper procomp LED housings... not the J dubs in the above link. 

6 hours ago, Ziemann said:

Oh, and there's that whole headlight condensation thing.....

 

There's the Polaris quality we've all come to expect. 

Did the seat fall off yet?  😂

6 hours ago, Ziemann said:

Doggy Style?

It's 0230, and I'm at work as I read this. I will put together a comprehensive review in the next day or two. Initial impressions are positive. 

Some comments:

1. The seat is weird. A little small and a little slippery. But I am thinking that it might break in.

2. The 137 Ice Ripper track causes a lot of push in the corners when I am riding it aggressively. Additional tweaking required. May be as simple as Shaper bars.

3. The owners manual states that the WE Velocity shocks need to be adjusted 5 clicks from full hard. I am reading on HCS, that is way off.

4. I'm sporting wood over the 7S display. The most more I play with it, the cooler it gets. Wow. Where in the hell is the USB pigtail? Isn't it suppose to be right there behind the display when you open the compartment? I don't see one? Maybe on this version it is upgraded via wifi?

5. I'm 6'5". The fit is ok. I may need another inch on the bar riser so I can sit back just a little bit more. I haven't found the perfect handlebar position yet, but obviously I am still getting used to it.

So far, I only have 105.5 miles on it, so it is way too early to draw any solid conclusions, but I can tell that with some tweaking it will be a great sled.

The USB pigtail is behind the S7 compartment.  Open the exhaust side cover.  It will have a rubber plug that goes inside where USB plugs into.

My sleds is in the trailer for this weekends ride or I could look to see where my springs shocks are set.  I always set the clickers to the middle of the adjustment to start and adjust up or down from there. The rear coupler blocks I have set to the highest position so the rear suspension couples the earliest.  That helps with the push.

The seat I personally liked the Axys seat better.  The Maytrx seat does seem slippery.

There is a handle bar riser that is 1" (25mm) taller that fits without issues.  The stock Maytrx is 60mm and the Matryx Assault is 85mm.  The Assault riser is P/ 5143421

5 minutes ago, Crnr2Crnr said:

There's the Polaris quality we've all come to expect. 

Did the seat fall off yet?  😂

I can’t remember which PC I had that the lights held moisture.  Think it was my 13.  It drove me nuts!  

I expect Zieman will give an honest report on what he find with his new found love for Polaris.

21 minutes ago, Cwhite138 said:

Water Vapor will always be an issue with LED headlights, it should work its self out with some heat cycles. 

We would see it all the time in aftermarket headlights in jeeps. people always wanting replacement. 
https://www.jwspeaker.com/blog/headlight-condensation-3/

There was a trick get rid of the vapor, remove the membrane on the back and place by a heater for a night then replace the membrane, not that I would try that on your headlight but just something we would do for the cheaper procomp LED housings... not the J dubs in the above link. 

big issue with general motors as well, and they tell you it's normal. then i get them with 2 inches of water in them. not normal and does it pass inspection? newer pickup tail lights are 700.00 . moisture in them as well

I am shocked that this sled pushes in the corners because supertrax says its the best front end in the galaxy!!!!

38 minutes ago, Zambroski said:

I can’t remember which PC I had that the lights held moisture.  Think it was my 13.  It drove me nuts!  

I expect Zieman will give an honest report on what he find with his new found love for Polaris.

I like where he's going with it... 

 

5 minutes ago, sleepybrew said:

big issue with general motors as well, and they tell you it's normal. then i get them with 2 inches of water in them. not normal and does it pass inspection? newer pickup tail lights are 700.00 . moisture in them as well

water ingress is an issue, vapor is not.  
Ive seen vapor in all brands, and not just LED projectors too. 
If the dealer wont replace a light with water, they are dicks. 

I say bring back the lights you can barely see. 
Not only will he help with people see water vapor, cheaper replacements and probably slow every one down... Cant see 20ft in front of you or other peoples tail lights. WIN WIN  

 
 

8 hours ago, Ziemann said:

Oh, and there's that whole headlight condensation thing.....

 

LOL, the demo we had last year did the same thing.  They need a PTFE membrane filter to allow the headlight assembly to breath and keep the moisture out.

2 hours ago, sleepybrew said:

big issue with general motors as well, and they tell you it's normal. then i get them with 2 inches of water in them. not normal and does it pass inspection? newer pickup tail lights are 700.00 . moisture in them as well

GM will tell you rust is normal as long as you can't see through it like a piece of swiss cheese.

Been seeing people having to replace LED headlights and tail lights at $700-$2,000 each.

19 minutes ago, teamgreen02 said:

LOL, the demo we had last year did the same thing.  They need a PTFE membrane filter to allow the headlight assembly to breath and keep the moisture out.

GM will tell you rust is normal as long as you can't see through it like a piece of swiss cheese.

Been seeing people having to replace LED headlights and tail lights at $700-$2,000 each.

we have a bulletin to use as a judge . yeah right. tell them it's normal till they get out of warranty

4 minutes ago, sleepybrew said:

we have a bulletin to use as a judge . yeah right. tell them it's normal till they get out of warranty

I won't buy another steel body pickup.  If I upgrade, it will probably be the F250 with the 7.3L Godzilla gasser.

1 hour ago, teamgreen02 said:

I won't buy another steel body pickup.  If I upgrade, it will probably be the F250 with the 7.3L Godzilla gasser.

i gave up on domestic vehicles a long time ago. 

8 minutes ago, sleepybrew said:

i gave up on domestic vehicles a long time ago. 

Fords have treated me well over the years.  Factory parts are easy to get and my independent mechanic knows them well.  I always buy used where the track record of a vehicle, engine, and transmission are well known.

Toyota just overtook GM as the top selling vehicle manufacturer in the U.S.

6 minutes ago, teamgreen02 said:

Fords have treated me well over the years.  Factory parts are easy to get and my independent mechanic knows them well.  I always buy used where the track record of a vehicle, engine, and transmission are well known.

Toyota just overtook GM as the top selling vehicle manufacturer in the U.S.

i work at a gm dealer and drive a tundra. my friend works at a toyota dealer and drives a chevy. and it got towed in last night

4 hours ago, Crnr2Crnr said:

I like where he's going with it... 

 

Holy crap.  Ugliest Polaris ever.

I've never had an issue warranty replacing a procross headlight, for moisture. 

only ever had 1 or 2 of the leds do it

15 hours ago, krom said:

I've never had an issue warranty replacing a procross headlight, for moisture. 

only ever had 1 or 2 of the leds do it

Even my halogen stockers with led lamps does get condensation.  It's a symptom of low cost and low expectations.

It would be interesting to see what IP rating polaris has on their housing. I've had led's in a ton of hot air areas that have never had condensation but they were IP68 /67 

UPDATES:

-Headed on another ride tomorrow morning. I'll be playing with the coupler blocks. I think I would also prefer that it couple sooner. 

-It sounds like on HCS, people are starting the Velocity shocks 3 clicks from full soft, and increasing the compression setting from there. That is completely different than the baseline settings in the owners manual. On my sled, every single shock had a different compression setting (even left versus right side). 

-I located the USB cable for updating the 7S display! Instead of it being threaded through a hole inside of the storage compartment so that it is accessible, someone just left it hanging with the rest of the wiring harness behind the display. Looks like someone did an incorrect installation at the dealership. I took care of that issue. They also cross threaded one of the fasteners that holds the 7S display to the dash. I am guessing that it was the same moron that didn't know where to route the USB cable. Both easily fixed....

-Ahh...and she was about 4 OZ low on chain case fluid. 

Most of the sled is setup perfect. But, I am finding a few items here and there that were missed on the pre-delivery inspection....all minor.