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2020 SB XCR 800 Pros and Cons


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If you can get past the look of the rear, which is fine, it’s a great trail sled… probably the same as my 2018 with different graphics.  It will take a ride or two to set it up good but once you get there, couple clicks in either direction is noticeable when conditions change.  The rear you’ll mostly set it and go.  The XCR has the bigger shock up front.  I’m 250 un-geared starting the season, I run the biggest rear spring they have.  I forget the numbers, but the XCR’s have the middle spring.  
How many miles?  Check the usuals, drive and jackshaft bearings behind the secondary.  Weight bushings in the primary if approaching ~3000.  All rear wheel bearings, but the rear 4 are usually in the best shape with the wheel designs.  I like the bigger sway bar my ‘21 came with, and I run some big carbides, Woody’s deuce 9”.  Tighten up or even replace the front a-arm bushings.  Someone has a good set of gar-dur (sp?).  I’d pull the chain case cover off and look at it, but you could suck the oil out and adjust behind the exhaust.  That’s a start - it’s just nuts and bolts.

Edited by Mag6240
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1 hour ago, Mag6240 said:

If you can get past the look of the rear, which is fine, it’s a great trail sled… probably the same as my 2018 with different graphics.  It will take a ride or two to set it up good but once you get there, couple clicks in either direction is noticeable when conditions change.  The rear you’ll mostly set it and go.  The XCR has the bigger shock up front.  I’m 250 un-geared starting the season, I run the biggest rear spring they have.  I forget the numbers, but the XCR’s have the middle spring.  
How many miles?  Check the usuals, drive and jackshaft bearings behind the secondary.  Weight bushings in the primary if approaching ~3000.  All rear wheel bearings, but the rear 4 are usually in the best shape with the wheel designs.  I like the bigger sway bar my ‘21 came with, and I run some big carbides, Woody’s deuce 9”.  Tighten up or even replace the front a-arm bushings.  Someone has a good set of gar-dur (sp?).  I’d pull the chain case cover off and look at it, but you could suck the oil out and adjust behind the exhaust.  That’s a start - it’s just nuts and bolts.

Awesome info…thanks!👊🏻🇺🇸

IMG_1676.thumb.png.bd71b5b1b205975bb63cd31113e2aac2.png

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28 minutes ago, Jimmy Snacks said:

Awesome info…thanks!👊🏻🇺🇸

IMG_1676.thumb.png.bd71b5b1b205975bb63cd31113e2aac2.png

Is the warranty transferable. 

If you buy it check the motor mounts to see if they're collapsing.  You'll see more belt dust and it won't shift out.  If they are its simple to change them.

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38 minutes ago, Doug said:

Is the warranty transferable. 

If you buy it check the motor mounts to see if they're collapsing.  You'll see more belt dust and it won't shift out.  If they are its simple to change them.

I assume so but will definitely check and good info on the mounts.👊🏻👌🏻

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15 minutes ago, sleepybrew said:

did it say switchback in there? that sounds like an indy xcr

I asked him if it was a 136 and he said yes and here is a picture…

 

IMG_1677.thumb.png.549ac8e7907333726d1c1d17028580b8.png

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That’s a bailer - nearly 5000 miles, gonna need to go through everything mentioned - and i would definitely open the chain case.  The exhaust is out of the way for the mounts then…

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I have a 2020 800 in the normal tunnel. Other than normal maintenance and wear parts the only that has failed was the rear arm on the last ride. The arm broke at the weld where the torsion goes. It has about 6500 miles on it. The recall thing was no big deal. It was done in a couple hours and we don’t even know what they changed. 

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6 minutes ago, Bontz said:

Well, it's not like a guy can't swap out NSR's stuff to get it back to stock.  Or better yet, chat with @fastsleddr and work with him.  The latter is a very good option :thumbsup:

Fastsleddr also has a lot of miles on Pro-Ride sleds.

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1 hour ago, Bontz said:

Well, it's not like a guy can't swap out NSR's stuff to get it back to stock.  Or better yet, chat with @fastsleddr and work with him.  The latter is a very good option :thumbsup:

That was tongue and cheek....but at 5k on a sled where someone put a clutch kit on I would expect it be ridden hard.

 

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49 minutes ago, Deephaven said:

That was tongue and cheek....but at 5k on a sled where someone put a clutch kit on I would expect it be ridden hard.

 

Tricky Rickie's clutch kits.  One kit fits all riding styles and condition.

I always change my clutching to the way I want the sled to run and my riding style.  Adding a clutch kit can be but is not always a sign the sled was rode hard.  Normally one gauge of a sleds condition and how well it was maintained is by how clean the clutches are.  If you looking at the clutches and their all full of belt dust and never been cleaned good sign the sled was not well maintained.

Here's a pic of one of my sleds with over 5000 miles.  Probably overboard but clean them ever 500 to 700 miles

20220115_143420.jpg

Edited by Doug
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I try to clean mine every 1500-2000 miles - weight bushings are the main wear culprit without the shims on stock clutching. 

As @Deephaven said, that’s a lot of miles on a sled with all that aftermarket stuff - personally I avoid those especially with that many miles.  Yes, I put a lot on myself, but I know what I have.

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2 minutes ago, Doug said:

Did you make any moves on this sled or still shopping.

Still shopping…I’ve found a couple lower mile XC 850’s nearby that I’m considering as well.

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2 minutes ago, Jimmy Snacks said:

Still shopping…I’ve found a couple lower mile XC 850’s nearby that I’m considering as well.

This one is getting traded in.  Highly maintained and was a wife's sled :D

20230327_131709.jpg

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