Platinum Contributing Member Blackstar Posted January 24 Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted January 24 Wife made a mistake, grabbed throttle instead of brake and drove her sled into the side of my Mach Z. I talked to the mechanic that works on my sleds. He said all I can do is patch it up and ride it. Hammer out the footrest pieces, replace the roller (outside edge) and live with it. Repair will always be visible. You can’t replace the footrests because you have to drill out the tunnel rivets. He says that will make the repair more obvious and it will still never be right. He says he has done this a few times. He doesn’t think I should tackle it. I understand that the wiring for the smart shocks run through the roller. Wiring has to be pulled out and put back. Agree? Disagree? Anyone done this? Im not in a rush. I can replace the steer rod first. Make sure the front end measures up square before I do anything more. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member 800renegaderider Posted January 24 Gold Member Share Posted January 24 (edited) I wouldn’t hammer it out and patch it up personally why? When both the pieces you need are pretty cheap. Doo sells the rivets too. Aluminum is hard to straighten too it’ll crack if you start beating on it without adding heat. Buy a hobo freight pneumatic rivet gun and a grinder and go to town. Make sure you get the panels tight together with vice grips or something before riveting so you get a nice tight connection. It’s time consuming but certainly not rocket science. Edit….come to think of it I bet @Rod has some experience on how repairs will come out on the exact same sled. I think he’s repairing his anyways seen it wrecked in his thread the other day. Edited January 24 by 800renegaderider 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICG Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 800 renegade is right on ... All new Doo parts, right down to the rivets.... Me, if either sled is insured I'd make a claim for the damages. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Blackstar Posted January 24 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted January 24 (edited) 46 minutes ago, 800renegaderider said: I wouldn’t hammer it out and patch it up personally why? When both the pieces you need are pretty cheap. Doo sells the rivets too. Aluminum is hard to straighten too it’ll crack if you start beating on it without adding heat. Buy a hobo freight pneumatic rivet gun and a grinder and go to town. Make sure you get the panels tight together with vice grips or something before riveting so you get a nice tight connection. It’s time consuming but certainly not rocket science. Edit….come to think of it I bet @Rod has some experience on how repairs will come out on the exact same sled. I think he’s repairing his anyways seen it wrecked in his thread the other day. I remember seeing that too. Ok, that’s kinda what I thought too. I’ve been pricing out the parts. Seems doable to me. No Roller available for a Mach Z according to the websites I found but I believe that is because the Smartshock wiring is in there. Just have to buy one for a Renegade with out Smartshock. Edited January 24 by Blackstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Blackstar Posted January 24 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted January 24 27 minutes ago, ICG said: 800 renegade is right on ... All new Doo parts, right down to the rivets.... Me, if either sled is insured I'd make a claim for the damages. No insurance. Both sleds are mine and I don’t carry collision coverage. Mechanic told me this would be a write off if taken to Doo dealer as insurance claim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member 800renegaderider Posted January 24 Gold Member Share Posted January 24 (edited) The parts are cheap insurance wouldn’t even be worth it to me $189 for the roller $40 step $4.29 per rivet You’d have less than $300usd in parts even at 50hrs(extremely exaggerated) labor it wouldn’t even total not even close unless Canada is different than here idk. you could easily do this repair in a day half drunk lol. edit…just seen your edit….parts availability is another obstacle didn’t really consider being a one year sled. Maybe the pn crosses to another sled idk claims the parts are available but I didn’t check out maybe it’s just lying until you give info lol Edited January 24 by 800renegaderider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 Looks like the parts you need are available to order. Like others said I wouldn't hammer to out it's never going to look good. Just order that parts and replace it will look alot better. Things happen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICG Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 15 minutes ago, Blackstar said: No insurance. Both sleds are mine and I don’t carry collision coverage. Mechanic told me this would be a write off if taken to Doo dealer as insurance claim. This would be a third party claim , you could make claim against your wife + the liability insurance on the sled 🛷. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 I've seen worst fixed and look good. Go online and order some clico fasteners. You can use these to temporarily reassemble it and make some tweaks as needed for fit. Then rivet it back together with an air riveter 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member 800renegaderider Posted January 24 Gold Member Share Posted January 24 7 minutes ago, Doug said: I've seen worst fixed and look good. Go online and order some clico fasteners. You can use these to temporarily reassemble it and make some tweaks as needed for fit. Then rivet it back together with an air riveter Those work mint just fyi check what size rivet hole you have and get the correct size cleco don’t wanna be drilling little 1/8” holes all over your new panel. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnstang Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 You could at least bend back that running board pretty easily. Mechanic guy doesn't sound very ambitious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Blackstar Posted January 24 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted January 24 Thanks guys. I’ll give it a shot. Borrowed a good rivet gun from my buddy. Went to the dealer. The parts kid and I got it figured out. Ordered the roller for a ‘22 Renegade XRS. Roller, steering shaft, lower belly panel and footrest came to $492 with taxes, plus the rivets. He has those in stock. I now see why it would be an insurance write off. The front section of the footrest is part of the tunnel. I will have to straighten that that section. Obviously the dealer would include a new tunnel and time in the quote. Parts should be here in a couple of days. He said it showed in the warehouse. I got a couple things need fixed around here first then I’ll start taking it apart. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Blackstar Posted January 24 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted January 24 3 hours ago, Doug said: I've seen worst fixed and look good. Go online and order some clico fasteners. You can use these to temporarily reassemble it and make some tweaks as needed for fit. Then rivet it back together with an air riveter Good idea. I was thinking along the same lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 32 minutes ago, Blackstar said: Good idea. I was thinking along the same lines. They make 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4 dia so like @800renegaderidersaid order the right size and you'll find other uses for them. If you need to straighten some parts use clamps and blocks to press/work the parts straight if you can. A hammer will leave hammer marks. Heres a sled a friend of mine fixed this fall. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Blackstar Posted January 28 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted January 28 4 hours to get the roller off, starting into the footrest now. Been through over a dozen drill bits . Lucky if I get through 1 rivet before bit is dull. Moved to a grinder. It takes too much force to drive them out so it looks like I will have to grind the heads off then drill and pry until it breaks free. Obviously they powder coat these parts after tunnel assembly. I was assuming they would be pre-finished then assembled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICG Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 Try industrial cobalt tipped drill bits.... Rivets are either aluminum or stainless steel. Cobalt will drill both Color & the look of powder coat could be a tough match Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Blackstar Posted January 28 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted January 28 39 minutes ago, ICG said: Try industrial cobalt tipped drill bits.... Rivets are either aluminum or stainless steel. Cobalt will drill both Color & the look of powder coat could be a tough match Some, the drill bit goes right through, others it just spins and won’t cut. I believe some of these rivets are aluminum with a steel centre pin. It’s off now anyways. And there is why he said it will be noticeable, Just as with the roller, the footrest is mounted to the tunnel before powder coating. This allows them to use the steel centred rivets as it then gets powder coated over the steel to prevent rust and corrosion. Im considering masking and painting the tunnel as it may be better to hide the joint rather than touch up paint. It would have to stick to aluminum though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICG Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 In a restoration, it would be re powder coated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polaris7541 Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 funny i dont see your wife out there helping . you still married , maybe i should send the po po over and look in the back yard for fresh holes good luck 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polaris7541 Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 best thing would be to powder coat as much as possible before assembly and epoxy paint what you cant, for best results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member 800renegaderider Posted January 28 Gold Member Share Posted January 28 Good work. That’s why I said a grinder it’s faster but looks like you got it done. Sometimes you can grab the back of the rivets with dikes or similar tool twist and pull them out after grinding the head off but if not you’d have to drill. The new parts aren’t black? I’d think the new parts would line up and cover the raw aluminum areas and I’d personally just dab some black on the snapped rivet mandrel spots vs painted entire tunnel. If it’s a really small line left around the edges I’d get a nice sword pinstriping brush and touch it up like you’re laying down a pin stripe. If the new pieces don’t cover the raw aluminum areas good and leave big raw aluminum outlines you can definitely paint. Most auto body supply shops will have a camera that can read the paints code and mix you something that’ll match. Etch prime or epoxy the raw aluminum and paint like anything else. Prep the raw aluminum to where you think it’s good then do it again to make sure it’s perfect then prime. We use ppg dplf epoxy at work but it’s very expensive I’m sure there is cheaper alternatives. I’d use an industrial paint if you do the entire tunnel it’ll hold up better. I can ask the painter at work what he recommends I haven’t painted professionally in 10years I’m not sure what paint lines are best anymore. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polaris7541 Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 what happened to the wifes sled pics please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 11 hours ago, Blackstar said: Some, the drill bit goes right through, others it just spins and won’t cut. I believe some of these rivets are aluminum with a steel centre pin. It’s off now anyways. And there is why he said it will be noticeable, Just as with the roller, the footrest is mounted to the tunnel before powder coating. This allows them to use the steel centred rivets as it then gets powder coated over the steel to prevent rust and corrosion. Im considering masking and painting the tunnel as it may be better to hide the joint rather than touch up paint. It would have to stick to aluminum though. Go to a place that does vinyl wraps and get some black to go on the tunnel before assembly. For rivets use stainless and paint them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Blackstar Posted January 28 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted January 28 11 hours ago, polaris7541 said: funny i dont see your wife out there helping . you still married , maybe i should send the po po over and look in the back yard for fresh holes good luck She's been very nice to me this week. What would you like for dinner? Can I get you a drink? Let me get that for you. lol 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frostynuts Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 Make sure you get at least a dozen I owe yous of each type in writing while the guilt is still present. LOL 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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