Platinum Contributing Member Blackstar Posted January 28 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted January 28 (edited) 2 hours ago, 800renegaderider said: Good work. That’s why I said a grinder it’s faster but looks like you got it done. Sometimes you can grab the back of the rivets with dikes or similar tool twist and pull them out after grinding the head off but if not you’d have to drill. The new parts aren’t black? I’d think the new parts would line up and cover the raw aluminum areas and I’d personally just dab some black on the snapped rivet mandrel spots vs painted entire tunnel. If it’s a really small line left around the edges I’d get a nice sword pinstriping brush and touch it up like you’re laying down a pin stripe. If the new pieces don’t cover the raw aluminum areas good and leave big raw aluminum outlines you can definitely paint. Most auto body supply shops will have a camera that can read the paints code and mix you something that’ll match. Etch prime or epoxy the raw aluminum and paint like anything else. Prep the raw aluminum to where you think it’s good then do it again to make sure it’s perfect then prime. We use ppg dplf epoxy at work but it’s very expensive I’m sure there is cheaper alternatives. I’d use an industrial paint if you do the entire tunnel it’ll hold up better. I can ask the painter at work what he recommends I haven’t painted professionally in 10years I’m not sure what paint lines are best anymore. I just assumed the new parts would be black. I hope. I'll wait to see how well they fit before I do anything. I'm not painting the entire tunnel. Edit. I checked the Skidoo parts site and the Mach Z and XRS share the same part number for the right side. The Renegade 600 EFI has the raw tunnel and a different part number. Today I'll pull the tie rod shaft and clean up the rivet holes. The Cleco's from Amazon take a week to get. I'll try the local bodyshop supply store. Edited January 28 by Blackstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
favoritos Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 2 hours ago, Doug said: Go to a place that does vinyl wraps and get some black to go on the tunnel before assembly. For rivets use stainless and paint them. I bet you can find stainless rivets that are already coated black. I've used those on repairs and keep a pile on hand. Not sure about the wrap idea if you're talking about putting it between tunnel and repair. I like structural sections riveted together tight. If talking about covering the final, go for it if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 1 hour ago, Blackstar said: I just assumed the new parts would be black. I hope. I'll wait to see how well they fit before I do anything. I'm not painting the entire tunnel. Edit. I checked the Skidoo parts site and the Mach Z and XRS share the same part number for the right side. The Renegade 600 EFI has the raw tunnel and a different part number. That's what Polaris did with their tunnels. Bare aluminum was one part number painted was a different part number Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICG Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 Black Rivets are standard in the automotive repair or industrial world Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member 800renegaderider Posted January 28 Gold Member Share Posted January 28 (edited) 1 hour ago, Blackstar said: I just assumed the new parts would be black. I hope. I'll wait to see how well they fit before I do anything. I'm not painting the entire tunnel. Edit. I checked the Skidoo parts site and the Mach Z and XRS share the same part number for the right side. The Renegade 600 EFI has the raw tunnel and a different part number. Today I'll pull the tie rod shaft and clean up the rivet holes. The Cleco's from Amazon take a week to get. I'll try the local bodyshop supply store. I’d think the parts and rivets would be black. I know I’ve gotta black rivets from doo in the past so I think you’re likely good on all black parts like factory from doo. I wouldn’t paint the tunnel either personally and don’t think you’ll have an issue besides touching up the center of the rivets possibly. Everything should be cut exactly the same I’d think and line up exactly like the original piece so no raw aluminum would show. If you can’t get clecos quick enough you don’t really need them just throw a rivet on the end hole on each panel on each end of the panel to use as I line up pin of sorts and use vice grips to hold tightly in place after it’s lined up. The middle holes should line up if one on each end is lined up. If you do this method though put like a bondo spreader or paint stick between the vice grip and panel so it doesn’t scratch it up. Cleco definitely be less of a pain won’t involve needed like 5 hands lol. Edited January 28 by 800renegaderider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Blackstar Posted January 28 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted January 28 1 minute ago, 800renegaderider said: I’d think the parts and rivets would be black. I know I’ve gotta black rivets from doo in the past so I think your likely good on all black parts like factory from doo. I wouldn’t paint the tunnel either personally and don’t think you’ll have an issue besides touching up the center of the rivets possibly. Everything should be cut exactly the same I’d think and line up exactly like the original piece so no raw aluminum would show. If you can’t get clecos quick enough you don’t really need them just throw a rivet on the end hole on each panel on each end of the panel to use as I line up pin of sorts and use vice grips to hold tightly in place after it’s lined up. The middle holes should line up if one on each end is lined up. If you do this method though put like a bondo spreader or paint stick between the vice grip and panel so it doesn’t scratch it up. Cleco definitely be less of a pain won’t involve needed like 5 hands lol. The Doo rivet are black. From what I’ve found online, they are either 6.4mm (1/4”) or 3/16 and the Center pin is steel. Amazon has them with quick delivery. Not that it matters because there is no decent snow within 6 hours of here. The area that will need the Cleco’s is where the front suspension bolts through the tunnel. The rivets in that area go through the footrest, the tunnel and the footrest support. I think I will be best to find some Clecos to hold that section together. Worst case, I’ll buy some 1/4” nuts and bolts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Blackstar Posted February 1 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted February 1 All the parts came in today. None of them come coloured, raw aluminum, even the rivets. I should have known when I took the other apart. Off to the powdercoater's tomorrow to see what he can do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member 800renegaderider Posted February 2 Gold Member Share Posted February 2 1 hour ago, Blackstar said: All the parts came in today. None of them come coloured, raw aluminum, even the rivets. I should have known when I took the other apart. Off to the powdercoater's tomorrow to see what he can do. That sucks I’m kinda shocked they aren’t black. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 2 hours ago, Blackstar said: All the parts came in today. None of them come coloured, raw aluminum, even the rivets. I should have known when I took the other apart. Off to the powdercoater's tomorrow to see what he can do. How well did the new parts cover the unpainted area on the tunnel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Blackstar Posted February 2 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted February 2 11 minutes ago, 800renegaderider said: That sucks I’m kinda shocked they aren’t black. I understand why now. They pre-assemble all the tunnel parts before powder coating. Raw tunnel, yellow tunnel, black tunnel, red tunnel. Doesn't matter. Just pre-assemble the pieces and spray them what ever colour you want. Now they don't have to carry the part pieces in 6 different colours. I'm now learning about rivets At the Doo dealer, the rivets were $10/each and they didn't have enough in stock (according to Doo I need 21 but since some of my 3/16 holes may now need 1/4 from drilling, I need more). I bought 10 to get started. On the parts bag for the rivets it says Hemlock 6.4 mm so I google that and it turns out these are specialty rivets made by Stanley. The Hemlok® rivet features an interference lock ensuring the strongest vibration-resistant joints. Luckily, there is a large specialty fastener warehouse here. In their online catalog it shows they are a Stanley dealer and they have what looks like the Hemlock rivet but it has a different name. They have a Stanley Pop Ultragrip but in the 1/4" size they only have Steel or Stainless Steel, nothing in Aluminum. I'll be going to see them tomorrow too. But worst case, I use the 10 I have plus what ever I buy there. I use the Doo rivets for where I have the most concern (at the supports and the footrest join) and use the others for the rest (mostly the roller mounting). Feel like I dug myself a very big hole.........lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Blackstar Posted February 2 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted February 2 23 minutes ago, Doug said: How well did the new parts cover the unpainted area on the tunnel? I haven't even checked yet but I might as well test fit everything to be sure of fit before I get them powder coated. I have my excavator in the shop and I have to do a bit of work to it before it can go back outside. Should have time to test fit tonight yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member 800renegaderider Posted February 2 Gold Member Share Posted February 2 3 minutes ago, Blackstar said: I understand why now. They pre-assemble all the tunnel parts before powder coating. Raw tunnel, yellow tunnel, black tunnel, red tunnel. Doesn't matter. Just pre-assemble the pieces and spray them what ever colour you want. Now they don't have to carry the part pieces in 6 different colours. I'm now learning about rivets At the Doo dealer, the rivets were $10/each and they didn't have enough in stock (according to Doo I need 21 but since some of my 3/16 holes may now need 1/4 from drilling, I need more). I bought 10 to get started. On the parts bag for the rivets it says Hemlock 6.4 mm so I google that and it turns out these are specialty rivets made by Stanley. The Hemlok® rivet features an interference lock ensuring the strongest vibration-resistant joints. Luckily, there is a large specialty fastener warehouse here. In their online catalog it shows they are a Stanley dealer and they have what looks like the Hemlock rivet but it has a different name. They have a Stanley Pop Ultragrip but in the 1/4" size they only have Steel or Stainless Steel, nothing in Aluminum. I'll be going to see them tomorrow too. But worst case, I use the 10 I have plus what ever I buy there. I use the Doo rivets for where I have the most concern (at the supports and the footrest join) and use the others for the rest (mostly the roller mounting). Feel like I dug myself a very big hole.........lol Ehh it’s not that big of a hole just a little set back lol. It’ll be worth the headache in the end it’ll look much better than a hammered out mess. I’m sure you can definitely find rivets that’ll work we got catalogs full of fasters at work they just may not be an exact match to the doo ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Blackstar Posted February 2 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted February 2 Can’t do a quickie test fit. The new one is slightly different. Notice where the footrest turns the 90. There is a cut out on the original. I’ll need to cut to match first. Noticing that not all the holes are pre drilled either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 1 hour ago, Blackstar said: I understand why now. They pre-assemble all the tunnel parts before powder coating. Raw tunnel, yellow tunnel, black tunnel, red tunnel. Doesn't matter. Just pre-assemble the pieces and spray them what ever colour you want. Now they don't have to carry the part pieces in 6 different colours. I'm now learning about rivets At the Doo dealer, the rivets were $10/each and they didn't have enough in stock (according to Doo I need 21 but since some of my 3/16 holes may now need 1/4 from drilling, I need more). I bought 10 to get started. On the parts bag for the rivets it says Hemlock 6.4 mm so I google that and it turns out these are specialty rivets made by Stanley. The Hemlok® rivet features an interference lock ensuring the strongest vibration-resistant joints. Luckily, there is a large specialty fastener warehouse here. In their online catalog it shows they are a Stanley dealer and they have what looks like the Hemlock rivet but it has a different name. They have a Stanley Pop Ultragrip but in the 1/4" size they only have Steel or Stainless Steel, nothing in Aluminum. I'll be going to see them tomorrow too. But worst case, I use the 10 I have plus what ever I buy there. I use the Doo rivets for where I have the most concern (at the supports and the footrest join) and use the others for the rest (mostly the roller mounting). Feel like I dug myself a very big hole.........lol You'll be fine. Hemlok is a registered trademark name for their rivet that maintain the clamp load for vibration better than a standard rivet. Other manufacturers with have their own name for a simular rivet to maintain a clamp load. The brand name of the stainless steel rivets I use were Huck when I replaced tunnels and bulkheads and got them from Fastenal. They had a very high resistance to vibration. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 33 minutes ago, Blackstar said: Can’t do a quickie test fit. The new one is slightly different. Notice where the footrest turns the 90. There is a cut out on the original. I’ll need to cut to match first. Noticing that not all the holes are pre drilled either. Does the cutout need to be there? Can you get a rivet in there and drill through the mating part. Test fit it even if you have to put the cutout in. Align a couple holes that are correct and dry assemble it with the clicos. Then transfer drill the other holes to complete the assemble before taking the parts to the powder coating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Blackstar Posted February 2 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted February 2 (edited) 2 hours ago, Doug said: Does the cutout need to be there? Can you get a rivet in there and drill through the mating part. Test fit it even if you have to put the cutout in. Align a couple holes that are correct and dry assemble it with the clicos. Then transfer drill the other holes to complete the assemble before taking the parts to the powder coating. I assume those are US$. I’m in Canada so add 40%….lol The cutout has to be there. The new footrest goes under the front section but over the side of the tunnel. I’ll nip it in the morning and start at it. I just picked up a new die grinder Tuesday on sale for $20 at Princess Auto (kinda like your Harbour Freight). I’ve been playing with my truck tonight. Bought this in Oct. Started fixing some small stuff. Lights, clock spring, ignition lock, etc. for safety. Took it to a buddies shop at Christmas. He put the flat deck and was getting me the safety. They noticed it wasn’t making much heat for the interior. Installed a new water pump and did a system flush. I picked it up today. They said the coolant that came out was gross, brown and rust. Someone had run the truck on straight water at some point, likely had put stop leak in it too. They hadn’t taken it for a drive yet. Well, I drove it home. it’s got no heat…..lol. Pulled it in the shop after the excavator was done. The input line to the heater is hot, output is cold. No circulation. Plugged. Guess I’m doing a heater core now. I also told them to check for a driveline vibration and it’s still there. I already have one truck sitting here waiting for a driveshaft. I got broken crap everywhere I look around here. Edited February 2 by Blackstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member 800renegaderider Posted February 2 Gold Member Share Posted February 2 (edited) 9 hours ago, Blackstar said: Can’t do a quickie test fit. The new one is slightly different. Notice where the footrest turns the 90. There is a cut out on the original. I’ll need to cut to match first. Noticing that not all the holes are pre drilled either. Maybe it’s me or the picture angles but that looks different in a few areas. The outer window on the left of the picture looks wider than the original. It also looks like the rear foot grips in the rear of the window turn down vs up on the original. That 90 corner looks completely different if you cut out the slot where you put a rivet you won’t have anything to rivet too cause it v’s in next to it and the original doesn’t. I’d look it over good before you start grinding stuff and confirm #s are correct. Edited February 2 by 800renegaderider 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 8 hours ago, Blackstar said: I assume those are US$. I’m in Canada so add 40%….lol The cutout has to be there. The new footrest goes under the front section but over the side of the tunnel. I’ll nip it in the morning and start at it. I just picked up a new die grinder Tuesday on sale for $20 at Princess Auto (kinda like your Harbour Freight). I’ve been playing with my truck tonight. Bought this in Oct. Started fixing some small stuff. Lights, clock spring, ignition lock, etc. for safety. Took it to a buddies shop at Christmas. He put the flat deck and was getting me the safety. They noticed it wasn’t making much heat for the interior. Installed a new water pump and did a system flush. I picked it up today. They said the coolant that came out was gross, brown and rust. Someone had run the truck on straight water at some point, likely had put stop leak in it too. They hadn’t taken it for a drive yet. Well, I drove it home. it’s got no heat…..lol. Pulled it in the shop after the excavator was done. The input line to the heater is hot, output is cold. No circulation. Plugged. Guess I’m doing a heater core now. I also told them to check for a driveline vibration and it’s still there. I already have one truck sitting here waiting for a driveshaft. I got broken crap everywhere I look around here. Did some checking and there is different p/n's for MY 2022 and 2023. The pictorial view in the parts breakdown even looks different. The original part looks like MY 2023 and the new part looks like MY 2022 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member 800renegaderider Posted February 2 Gold Member Share Posted February 2 (edited) 22 minutes ago, Doug said: Did some checking and there is different p/n's for MY 2022 and 2023. The pictorial view in the parts breakdown even looks different. The original part looks like MY 2023 and the new part looks like MY 2022 Nice 👍 definitely looks like he’d need the 23 style which is kinda strange considering the z is a 22. I wonder if there is differences in the roller also? Edited February 2 by 800renegaderider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Blackstar Posted February 2 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted February 2 1 hour ago, Doug said: Did some checking and there is different p/n's for MY 2022 and 2023. The pictorial view in the parts breakdown even looks different. The original part looks like MY 2023 and the new part looks like MY 2022 43 minutes ago, 800renegaderider said: Nice 👍 definitely looks like he’d need the 23 style which is kinda strange considering the z is a 22. I wonder if there is differences in the roller also? Ok, thanks. I will take a closer look before I procede. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 51 minutes ago, Blackstar said: Ok, thanks. I will take a closer look before I procede. For your truck check to see if there's an external value that shuts off the flow of coolant through the heater core when the is A/C on. Changed a heater core once to find out the external valve was stuck shut and there was nothing wrong with the heater core. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Blackstar Posted February 2 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted February 2 (edited) I just poured over these parts diagrams for an hour. 2022 Mach Z, 2023 MXZ std, 2022 MXZ XRS and 2023 MXZ XRS SAS all use the same part number for the Footrest. Part # 518332306 The Roller for the 2023 MXZ XRS and 2022 MXZ XRS both use the same part number. # 51839024 The 2023 MXZ XRS SAS has the part number for the Roller (now called footrest support) # 518332307 The rear tunnel support for the 2023 MXZ XRS SAS and the 2022 MXZ XRS std both use part # 518334412 The 2022 Mach Z and the 2023 MXZ XRS both use Rear Tunnel Support part # 518334413 Now I am completely lost..........lol In the end, I have to fit this Footrest as they all use the same part number, then I will have to figure out whether the roller I have fits or not. Edited February 2 by Blackstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Blackstar Posted February 2 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted February 2 11 minutes ago, Doug said: For your truck check to see if there's an external value that shuts off the flow of coolant through the heater core when the is A/C on. Changed a heater core once to find out the external valve was stuck shut and there was nothing wrong with the heater core. There is an external valve but everyone says not to worry about it. The default is open and it only closes when A/C is in use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 4 minutes ago, Blackstar said: I just poured over these parts diagrams for an hour. 2022 Mach Z, 2023 MXZ std, 2022 MXZ XRS and 2023 MXZ XRS SAS all use the same part number for the Footrest. Part # 518332306 The Roller for the 2023 MXZ XRS and 2022 MXZ XRS both use the same part number. # 51839024 The 2023 MXZ XRS SAS has the part number for the Roller (now called footrest support) # 518332307 The rear tunnel support for the 2023 MXZ XRS SAS and the 2022 MXZ XRS std both use part 3 518334412 The 2022 Mach Z and the 2023 MXZ XRS both use Rear Tunnel Support part # 518334413 Now I am completely lost..........lol In the end, I have to fit this Footrest as they all use the same part number, then I will have to figure out whether the roller I have fits or not. That's strange that even to pictorial shows the 2 different configurations Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Blackstar Posted February 2 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted February 2 Just now, Doug said: That's strange that even to pictorial shows the 2 different configurations Very Strange. Obviously they modify them at assembly. Ok, 2022 Renegade XRS with Smart Shocks uses the same footrest and rear support as the Mach Z so the roller should be the same. Part # 5183329024 If I've done this right. Now I will check what I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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