Zambroski 18,982 Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 27 minutes ago, hayward said: Thanks. What does it mean by some saying "uncalibrated"? I saw another website was the same way, offered it both ways. Edit: How are these parts so cheap through this place? Who I used to deal with 20 years ago, they want over $1000 for both clutches. Lot's of these discount places around. They usually just take longer to get parts and aren't real good at pinpointing when they'll ship. The uncalibrated was answered by C2C. Sometimes you are better off buying the complete set up unless you like to tinker. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
racinfarmer 3,764 Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 27 minutes ago, hayward said: Yeah well, my whole problem is i've got too much shit to maintain. I actually had good intentions and ordered 2 new bearings back in the end of Dec., and they just came in last tuesday. Should have taken the time and tore into it for peace of mind, instead now I have junk. Just the way it goes. We had so many bearing problems on my 08 that when I got the 2010 to 2014, we replaced every bearing on that sled that wasn't in the engine. Chaincase, jackshaft, entire skid. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hayward 844 Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 Jackshaft's toast. Might as well change lower bearings as well while i'm into the chaincase i guess. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hayward 844 Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 40 minutes ago, racinfarmer said: Just the way it goes. We had so many bearing problems on my 08 that when I got the 2010 to 2014, we replaced every bearing on that sled that wasn't in the engine. Chaincase, jackshaft, entire skid. You source all the bearings through cat or put better quality bearings in? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zambroski 18,982 Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 7 minutes ago, hayward said: You source all the bearings through cat or put better quality bearings in? I like USA bearings and belts. Better quality and not too spendy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
racinfarmer 3,764 Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 12 minutes ago, hayward said: You source all the bearings through cat or put better quality bearings in? SK or NTN. Ice sleds would get all ceramic bearings. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnstang 185 Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 Anyone want one of these secondary springs. For the team secondary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crnr2Crnr 304 Posted February 16 Author Share Posted February 16 On 2/13/2021 at 5:10 PM, hayward said: Edit: How are these parts so cheap through this place? Who I used to deal with 20 years ago, they want over $1000 for both clutches. what don't you understand about Dealer Cost? don't expect lightning fast service... but the price is pretty much what they claim. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crnr2Crnr 304 Posted February 16 Author Share Posted February 16 On 2/13/2021 at 6:36 PM, racinfarmer said: Ice sleds would get all ceramic bearings. keep talking... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hayward 844 Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 On 2/13/2021 at 5:56 PM, Crnr2Crnr said: ouch! that sucks... if you can be patient, this place has the best prices I've found online... https://www.dealercostparts.com/oemparts/partsearch/arctic_cat?partsearch=0726-297 https://www.dealercostparts.com/oemparts/partsearch/arctic_cat?partsearch=0746-435 Thanks for the link. Very nice girl on the phone who helped me out with what they could ship and what was on backorder and how long the wait would be. Even went as far to find me dealers who had that particular part in stock and gave me thier number as well. Great experience. Now, still need a primary clutch though. Backordered till May 1rst. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ArcticDuvall 0 Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 On 2/10/2021 at 5:44 PM, Crnr2Crnr said: we'll need more info bud... what do the plugs look like? how's the spark, right after it dies? what RPM does it die at? what setting is the timing at? compression checked? jetting correct for altitude and temp? primary and secondary checked? and more.... tell us what you've done. did you test drive it? 2008's are their own animal and fwiw - not my forte' One plug looks ok the other is black and both are wet. haven’t checked spark after it dies I will next test run. I broke the pull rope and just got that back together. seems to die randomly at any rpm timing is set at “0” compression checked out at 145 both cylinders jetted correctly I don’t know what your referring to on primary and secondary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crnr2Crnr 304 Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 (edited) On 2/10/2021 at 4:36 PM, ArcticDuvall said: One plug looks ok the other is black and both are wet. haven’t checked spark after it dies I will next test run. I broke the pull rope and just got that back together. seems to die randomly at any rpm timing is set at “0” compression checked out at 145 both cylinders jetted correctly I don’t know what your referring to on primary and secondary So... one side sounds overly rich if you are getting carbon, and both are likely on the rich side - jetting on these from what I know is rather temperamental and something even experienced with these struggle with. the good news is there is a company that can help with the jetting issues on this particular model for normal use https://www.holtzmaneng.com/carburetion-products and there is a great write up on a site many of us used to frequent on the install https://www.hardcoresledder.com/threads/how-to-install-a-holtzman-atacc-in-a-sno-pro-600-with-pics.572063/ random rpm doesn't make this any easier, but spark still needs to be verified upon dying. we all know full well engines need fuel, spark, timing and air to run properly, the struggle will be sorting out which of yours isn't ideal. another group to seek reasonably good advise (from time to time) for these is https://www.facebook.com/groups/572764329589268 but take each piece of advise with a grain of salt because there's some dumb fucks on there as well - because, well, it's facebook. hope this helps, and maybe @fortune46x, @Zambroski or others might chime in here and give you better guidance than me. :) Edited February 23 by Crnr2Crnr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crnr2Crnr 304 Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 On 2/13/2021 at 6:21 PM, hayward said: Jackshaft's toast. Might as well change lower bearings as well while i'm into the chaincase i guess. there's a guy on FB offering hardened jackshafts for these - even though the under-spec'd piece of shit bearing on the secondary side is the biggest (OVERSIGHT) issue. On 2/19/2021 at 12:41 PM, hayward said: Thanks for the link. Very nice girl on the phone who helped me out with what they could ship and what was on backorder and how long the wait would be. Even went as far to find me dealers who had that particular part in stock and gave me thier number as well. Great experience. Now, still need a primary clutch though. Backordered till May 1rst. no problem... they seemed good to deal with and their pricing is phenomenal compared to everyone else including my favorite vendors. in other news, the 720 is back together and fired on the first pull tonight, no leaks, no issues and it sounds healthy and happy. heat cycle #1 completed, will do another and test start test riding and break in. VERY Happy, and breathing a HUGE sigh of relief. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zambroski 18,982 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 10 hours ago, Crnr2Crnr said: So... one side sounds overly rich if you are getting carbon, and both are likely on the rich side - jetting on these from what I know is rather temperamental and something even experienced with these struggle with. the good news is there is a company that can help with the jetting issues on this particular model for normal use https://www.holtzmaneng.com/carburetion-products and there is a great write up on a site many of us used to frequent on the install https://www.hardcoresledder.com/threads/how-to-install-a-holtzman-atacc-in-a-sno-pro-600-with-pics.572063/ random rpm doesn't make this any easier, but spark still needs to be verified upon dying. we all know full well engines need fuel, spark, timing and air to run properly, the struggle will be sorting out which of yours isn't ideal. another group to seek reasonably good advise (from time to time) for these is https://www.facebook.com/groups/572764329589268 but take each piece of advise with a grain of salt because there's some dumb fucks on there as well - because, well, it's facebook. hope this helps, and maybe @fortune46x, @Zambroski or others might chime in here and give you better guidance than me. Well, gotta get those plugs burning closer for one but, unless the one is soiled more than he is saying, that shouldn't make the sled die....just run rough. I'm still guessing it's an electrical issue, if not a ground, coil(s), stator, VR. I'd start focusing my attention to testing these items. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnstang 185 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 12 hours ago, Crnr2Crnr said: there's a guy on FB offering hardened jackshafts for these - even though the under-spec'd piece of shit bearing on the secondary side is the biggest (OVERSIGHT) issue. no problem... they seemed good to deal with and their pricing is phenomenal compared to everyone else including my favorite vendors. in other news, the 720 is back together and fired on the first pull tonight, no leaks, no issues and it sounds healthy and happy. heat cycle #1 completed, will do another and test start test riding and break in. VERY Happy, and breathing a HUGE sigh of relief. The bearings are bad but put a dial indicator on your clutch or better yet on the jackshaft and you'll see yours are probably bent. I went through a few looking for a good one and never did finally just bent mine back and had my dad true it up on lathe. Mayberry that's why the bearings never last.. Gotta look at everything if you're add or just looking for maximum efficiency. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hayward 844 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 1 hour ago, mnstang said: The bearings are bad but put a dial indicator on your clutch or better yet on the jackshaft and you'll see yours are probably bent. I went through a few looking for a good one and never did finally just bent mine back and had my dad true it up on lathe. Mayberry that's why the bearings never last.. Gotta look at everything if you're add or just looking for maximum efficiency. Well if my jackshaft was bent, then the bearing was a good one because it lasted 3400 miles. You mean you went through a few new jackshafts and they were all bent, or used one's? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnstang 185 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 I didn't bend mine, I checked it and found it was bent. I got some other used ones and they were all bent too. Mind you not enough where anyone could notice it without checking with precision instruments. I never bought a new one but I've seen the guy selling the ones he's making and it seems like a good deal compared to a cat one and I've dealt with that guy before and he seems solid. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crnr2Crnr 304 Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 12 hours ago, mnstang said: The bearings are bad but put a dial indicator on your clutch or better yet on the jackshaft and you'll see yours are probably bent. I went through a few looking for a good one and never did finally just bent mine back and had my dad true it up on lathe. Mayberry that's why the bearings never last.. Gotta look at everything if you're add or just looking for maximum efficiency. 5 hours ago, mnstang said: I didn't bend mine, I checked it and found it was bent. I got some other used ones and they were all bent too. Mind you not enough where anyone could notice it without checking with precision instruments. I never bought a new one but I've seen the guy selling the ones he's making and it seems like a good deal compared to a cat one and I've dealt with that guy before and he seems solid. good points, and admittedly I've not checked my shafts when out during bearing replacement. in hindsight I probably should have done that when replacing the j-shaft bearing on the 720 - but like most just assumed the shaft is fine because it's a big thick piece of steel and it 'should be' straight and true. the 500 is due for a new bearing in fall, so I'll probably have to pull the shaft and see where it runs out. one would hope and think things as such in a race derived chassis would be spot on... but they are made by people who work for a company, with a budget, and bean counters.... sigh Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cact34r 0 Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 Can anyone help me identify these cams? My SP500/F7 refused to disengage normally on my ride yesterday and I found worn cam bushings and a flat spot roller. I was hoping to just rebush them but one is chewed up a little from where it wedged in and they are looking pretty worn at the hole.The primary spring is silver and the cover says 160/300 on it. It also says 71.2 or 71.5. The cams have 74 written on one side and 71.2 or .5 on the other with an 'R'. This clutch came on the F7 motor and I thought it ran well. If I need to replace the cams any suggestions as these are hand ground. Hope it's ok to just start a new subject in this post. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crnr2Crnr 304 Posted February 26 Author Share Posted February 26 well, this was a gigantic pain in the balls because for some dumb reason I wanted to retain as much of the original decals as possible and at the same time extract heat from the engine compartment but here was my process for adding the Proven Designs vent kits to the Sno Pro 720. high quality stuff, and a perfect fit. my wife is a great sport for letting me do it right on the living room floor. so, with the 15" wide track, Cat M-scratchers, the Koso gauge and the vent kit if I overheat this thing, it's all my own damn' fault. I'll get a couple pics on the machine, at some point. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnstang 185 Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 It'd be cool if you got the original side decals and cut them in a way so they lay over those louvers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crnr2Crnr 304 Posted February 26 Author Share Posted February 26 1 hour ago, mnstang said: It'd be cool if you got the original side decals and cut them in a way so they lay over those louvers I thought about that as well, and it would be cool. Problem is the vent material is pretty slick and I doubt the decals would adhere real well, and cutting them properly would require a PHD in physics. in hindsight I should have gotten the lower vent in white, which is an option. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crnr2Crnr 304 Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 finished look of the vent panels on the sled. took a very brief ride around a small field before loading it into the trailer, snow was rock hard - pulled real well out of the hole even with the XC gearing. need to loosen the track a bit. hope to do some break-in riding on the lake tomorrow if we get the snow they are calling for because our local trails are currently fubar'd. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crnr2Crnr 304 Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 On 2/15/2021 at 8:23 AM, mnstang said: Anyone want one of these secondary springs. For the team secondary I might... pondering my secondary on the 720 with fresh XC gearing right now even though I haven't tested it yet. looking at the spring and helix on the XC and wondering if I might need to upgrade there as well. devil's often hidden in the details right? maybe I can get some info from Jeremey Houle or @Fast 440 knows, wish TwoLapsDown was still around too as I know they had numerous gearing and spring combo's back then for the 600 XC's. at the very least I should probably take my secondary apart to inspect it and make sure the helix is on 40 and see which spring is in it as the D&D clutch kit with the engine kit only addressed the primary. Stock 2010 500 Helix is 40/38 - 0648-805 Spring is Black/Blue 180/260 - 0648-790 20/46 gearing Belt 0627-047 Stock 2010/2011 SX 600 Helix is 68-48-36/64-48-41 0648-789 Spring is Black/Blue 180/260 - 0648-790 20/46 gearing Belt 0627-075 Stock 2010/2011 XC 600 Helix is 44/42 0648-809 Spring is Black/Orange 180/280 0648-792 20/39 gearing (already have this) Belt 0627-076 (already have this) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crnr2Crnr 304 Posted Monday at 02:30 AM Author Share Posted Monday at 02:30 AM On 12/27/2020 at 12:27 PM, Crnr2Crnr said: Sticking with the 128" and decided to go against the grain and trying the Ice Attak XT and DuPont Vespel slides. If it sucks for my typical riding conditions, I'll be the first to admit it was a bad decision. On 12/28/2020 at 10:43 AM, mnstang said: Looks like a ripsaw 2. Should work for groomed trail. first ride with it today on 7-8" of fresh snow that was ridden on but not groomed. in loose snow, I can say with certainty the Cobra is far superior but this track is quantum leaps over the 1" 14"W Hacksaw that was on there. on a few spots where the snow/ice was firm it hooked pretty darn well. so, more time and mileage will be the judge... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.