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Anler

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Just now, Frostynuts said:

Honestly, all they are going to do, is give you a false sense of being able to stop on ice. They are kinda useless. A buddy had them, and they didn,t do shit. He ended up studding his track with real studs.

They don't stay in the track either unless you are a woman or a child.

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Just now, Arctic Cat Destroyer said:

STFU!

Seriously ...quit listening to Vince about those retarded fucking things. I started on a track with them and saw how useless they were and pulled them out. Preston put them in his etec and they provided little in the way of traction and were coming out of the track by the handful. He studded the next year. 

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8 minutes ago, f7ben said:

Yup...sucking up the limited is the last option and will indeed make for a little harsher ride. I'd put some transfer blocks in that bitch!!!

STFU!

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7 minutes ago, f7ben said:

Yup...sucking up the limited is the last option and will indeed make for a little harsher ride. I'd put some transfer blocks in that bitch!!!

Yup.  Everyone has their own ideas and preferences though.  I like the light front end, my SKS stayed flat as hell, which was weird compared to the older RMKs which would stand on end.

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2 minutes ago, f7ben said:

Seriously ...quit listening to Vince about those retarded fucking things. I started on a track with them and saw how useless they were and pulled them out. Preston put them in his etec and they provided little in the way of traction and were coming out of the track by the handful. He studded the next year. 

I don't want 1.7" studs!!!!!1111

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Just now, Arctic Cat Destroyer said:

I don't want 1.7" studs!!!!!1111

Well then you shouldn't have bought a 1.6 track dummy :lol:

 

You actually need to put 2" studs in her and that would be a great setup. 

Not studding is for children and woman. Any serious diamond pounder will need a pile of studs.....unless they are on a 600

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1 minute ago, DriftBusta said:

Yup.  Everyone has their own ideas and preferences though.  I like the light front end, my SKS stayed flat as hell, which was weird compared to the older RMKs which would stand on end.

I don't really have any complaints about the ride. It could be softer but it's not bad at all. My back is fine this morning and there was definitely reason for it to be sore. 

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Just now, f7ben said:

Well then you shouldn't have bought a 1.6 track dummy :lol:

 

You actually need to put 2" studs in her and that would be a great setup. 

Not studding is for children and woman. Any serious diamond pounder will need a pile of studs.....unless they are on a 600

I agree, I would rather have the 1.3 cobra and studs but I thought I would give the 1.6 a try. It's a good track and if the trails weren't so shitty I probably wouldn't be complaining about it. 

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1 minute ago, Arctic Cat Destroyer said:

I agree, I would rather have the 1.3 cobra and studs but I thought I would give the 1.6 a try. It's a good track and if the trails weren't so shitty I probably wouldn't be complaining about it. 

A bud down here bought the 2" SBA and studded it :lol: so he claims anyway

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2 minutes ago, Frostynuts said:

IF you want to stud it, take a sharp butcher knife, and cut 1/4 in. of the end of the lugs, which takes about an hour, and put in real studs.

Why not just put in long studs? If I was him I'd sell the track and get the 1.35 cobra and stud the shit out of it

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10 minutes ago, f7ben said:

Well then you shouldn't have bought a 1.6 track dummy :lol:

 

You actually need to put 2" studs in her and that would be a great setup. 

Not studding is for children and woman. Any serious diamond pounder will need a pile of studs.....unless they are on a 600

Yep.  Did Anler just talk about sleds “laying waste” to one another on the lake in the same thread he mentions screw in studs?

Hands throwin’ rookie. :lmao:

If you tour.  Screw ins or similar.  If your ride. STUDS.

2 minutes ago, Frostynuts said:

IF you want to stud it, take a sharp butcher knife, and cut 1/4 in. of the end of the lugs, which takes about an hour, and put in real studs.

Real studs are worth whatever weight and rotating mass increases.  I tried that ice ripper track on the last sled I ordered figuring hey, if it works...excellent.  It worked but nothing like the real deal.  Anybody interested in even the least bit of trail performance, or really, anything other than deep pow uses the real deal.  

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1 minute ago, f7ben said:

Why not just put in long studs? If I was him I'd sell the track and get the 1.35 cobra and stud the shit out of it

I was thinking with the 1.6 track, he might be afraid to stud it, so the cheapest alternative would be to cut down the track, and get studs that are about 3/8 inch above the lugs. 

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3 minutes ago, f7ben said:

Well then you shouldn't have bought a 1.6 track dummy :lol:

 

You actually need to put 2" studs in her and that would be a great setup. 

Not studding is for children and woman. Any serious diamond pounder will need a pile of studs.....unless they are on a 600

2" studs=bulldozer ride=destroyed heat exchangers=excess weight.  No thanks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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3 minutes ago, DriftBusta said:

2" studs=bulldozer ride=destroyed heat exchangers=excess weight.  No thanks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I tend to agree......I did have 1.8 inch studs in a 1.5 inch track on my last doo turbo and that rode surprisingly well. 2" studs are excessive though 

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5 minutes ago, Zambroski said:

Yep.  Did Anler just talk about sleds “laying waste” to one another on the lake in the same thread he mentions screw in studs?

Hands throwin’ rookie. :lmao:

If you tour.  Screw ins or similar.  If your ride. STUDS.

Real studs are worth whatever weight and rotating mass increases.  I tried that ice ripper track on the last sled I ordered figuring hey, if it works...excellent.  It worked but nothing like the real deal.  Anybody interested in even the least bit of trail performance, or really, anything other than deep pow uses the real deal.  

exactly.....those ice attack bullshit tracks do little in the way of anything other than "added safety" 

5 minutes ago, Frostynuts said:

I was thinking with the 1.6 track, he might be afraid to stud it, so the cheapest alternative would be to cut down the track, and get studs that are about 3/8 inch above the lugs. 

really no need to cut the soft ends off a cobra track....they just lay mostly flat on hard surface anyways. You would stud the 1.6 like its a 1.5 

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Just now, DriftBusta said:

2" studs=bulldozer ride=destroyed heat exchangers=excess weight.  No thanks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well, true.  But for anything done to the back, it needs to be matched up front.  Assuming somebody knows anything about how suspensions work and how to adjust them.  I’ve got a 1.75 w/2” studs on mine now.  But I’ve also got CA XT’s with 8” bides finishing off two inches of keel in the front.  Similar to all my set ups over the last few years.  It goes exactly where you want it to, when you want it to, and leaves the apex just as quickly.  But it’s not a set up recommended for the casual tourist.  You’d better throw some weight into it or you’ll be climbing out of the tree tops. :lmao:

 

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13 minutes ago, f7ben said:

Why not just put in long studs? If I was him I'd sell the track and get the 1.35 cobra and stud the shit out of it

I may call Bruce at tracks USA and see what he'll give me for a lightly used 1.6. I like the cobra track, I just need studs. I am missing my mohawk skis too...

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1 minute ago, Arctic Cat Destroyer said:

I may call Bruce at tracks USA and see what he'll give me for a lightly used 1.6. I like the cobra track, I just need studs. I am missing my mohawk skis too...

Dude.  You’ve got a cobra track.  Soft ends.  You could get away with studs just an 1/8th over the lugs or go 1/4 and it’s be all you wanted.  Talll nuts or, go with these.

 

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