2017 Chev Impala transmission fluid change?

[racinfarmer]

Just now, SayatodaU.P.eh? said:

Auto transmissions don’t need the fluid level checked unless they are leaking. Fluid doesn’t evaporate into thin air. From what I understand it wasn’t as much of a cost issue as it was lack of room for it, on some models, and a possible leak point cause fire on others. 

Literally none of those are any of the actual reasons. Manufacturers make shit on dealer service work. It’s not a concern for them really at all. 

Manufacturers have a vested interest in their dealers doing well.

[SayatodaU.P.eh?]

Transmission is a 6T45 if it has a 2.5L 4 cyl engine. It’s a 6T70 if it has the 3.6L V-6. 

As was stated single drain point, on the bottom of the trans case. Single fill point on the top of the trans, plastic cap. Some 6 speeds had a dipstick attached to that fill cap. If not, the check plug is accessible through the drivers side wheel well. It should be at the 5 o’clock-ish position (to the right of) the drive axle. Engine has to be running, transmission up to 85-95C and plug out to check fluid level. 4-6 liters of Dex 6 to do a drain and fill. I put 4 in, get the transmission warmed up and then pull the check plug. Add more if necessary. With the vehicle level, you want the fluid to just drip or have a very light steam out of the plug. Put the plug in before shutting the engine down. 

Edited September 1, 2021 by SayatodaU.P.eh?

[SayatodaU.P.eh?]

21 minutes ago, racinfarmer said:

Manufacturers have a vested interest in their dealers doing well.

In sales, yes. Service is the red headed step child of the automotive companies business. Been in it for 25 years and deeper than I may have ever wanted to be. Most every auto manufacturer that I’ve seen would rather just sell cars, some parts and outsource warranty service. Out of warranty service, the manufacturers make zero money on service except parts sales. 

Edited September 1, 2021 by SayatodaU.P.eh?

[SayatodaU.P.eh?]

10 hours ago, racinfarmer said:

I try to go to a local independent shop as often as I can.  

I'm waiting for the day the blind spot detection shit finally goes in the Impala.

2019 was the last year of production for the Impala. 2018 and 2019 had the options available for most of the driver assistance systems (side blind zone alert, forward collision alert, lane departure warning and lane keep assist). Pretty sure those were only available on LTZ/Premier package cars though. 

[Skidude600]

11 hours ago, racinfarmer said:

I try to go to a local independent shop as often as I can.  

I'm waiting for the day the blind spot detection shit finally goes in the Impala.

If it does have your dealer check for a recall. Our 14 had that go bad and it was covered. 

[irv]

1 hour ago, SayatodaU.P.eh? said:

Transmission is a 6T45 if it has a 2.5L 4 cyl engine. It’s a 6T70 if it has the 3.6L V-6. 

As was stated single drain point, on the bottom of the trans case. Single fill point on the top of the trans, plastic cap. Some 6 speeds had a dipstick attached to that fill cap. If not, the check plug is accessible through the drivers side wheel well. It should be at the 5 o’clock-ish position (to the right of) the drive axle. Engine has to be running, transmission up to 85-95C and plug out to check fluid level. 4-6 liters of Dex 6 to do a drain and fill. I put 4 in, get the transmission warmed up and then pull the check plug. Add more if necessary. With the vehicle level, you want the fluid to just drip or have a very light steam out of the plug. Put the plug in before shutting the engine down. 

My wife's car does have the dip stick so I assume the check plug would not be on this car? From what I read, a complete drain will require 6.3 Ltr's to refill? I assume that isn't accurate enough doing it that way? I've thought about measuring the amount that comes out and replacing it with the exact same amount. Is that acceptable or am I assuming it was properly filled to begin with? 

I appreciate the info. 

44 minutes ago, SayatodaU.P.eh? said:

2019 was the last year of production for the Impala. 2018 and 2019 had the options available for most of the driver assistance systems (side blind zone alert, forward collision alert, lane departure warning and lane keep assist). Pretty sure those were only available on LTZ/Premier package cars though. 

My wife's Premier has all those features. Although they can be a pain in the ass sometimes the forward collision feature did save my ass once though so I was grateful to have it. 

[ActionfigureJoe]

33 minutes ago, SayatodaU.P.eh? said:

Transmission is a 6T45 if it has a 2.5L 4 cyl engine. It’s a 6T70 if it has the 3.6L V-6. 

As was stated single drain point, on the bottom of the trans case. Single fill point on the top of the trans, plastic cap. Some 6 speeds had a dipstick attached to that fill cap. If not, the check plug is accessible through the drivers side wheel well. It should be at the 5 o’clock-ish position (to the right of) the drive axle. Engine has to be running, transmission up to 85-95C and plug out to check fluid level. 4-6 liters of Dex 6 to do a drain and fill. I put 4 in, get the transmission warmed up and then pull the check plug. Add more if necessary. With the vehicle level, you want the fluid to just drip or have a very light steam out of the plug. Put the plug in before shutting the engine down. 

I've learned that from experience. Ugh. 

[SayatodaU.P.eh?]

1 hour ago, irv said:

My wife's car does have the dip stick so I assume the check plug would not be on this car? From what I read, a complete drain will require 6.3 Ltr's to refill? I assume that isn't accurate enough doing it that way? I've thought about measuring the amount that comes out and replacing it with the exact same amount. Is that acceptable or am I assuming it was properly filled to begin with? 

I appreciate the info. 

My wife's Premier has all those features. Although they can be a pain in the ass sometimes the forward collision feature did save my ass once though so I was grateful to have it. 

Easier to add oil than to drain it. That’s why I start slightly lower and work my way up. Some transmissions require the fluid to be up to operating temp to set it, as well. 

[XCR1250]

16 hours ago, irv said:

With 50,000 km's on my wife's car now, I want to change out the fluid. (we purchased it used) Is this simply a drain and fill or is there a pan with filter(s) inside that can be changed out as well?

I've never really paid attention while under there doing an oil change but my gut tells me, based on the little info I have been able to find, that that isn't possible. You simply drain out the old and fill with the new. Anyone know for sure? (17 Impala with the 3.5 engine)

Do a BG Trans. flush, it's the best.

[irv]

27 minutes ago, SayatodaU.P.eh? said:

Easier to add oil than to drain it. That’s why I start slightly lower and work my way up. Some transmissions require the fluid to be up to operating temp to set it, as well. 

I will do that but I will still measure it if I can to set a baseline.

Again, thanks for the info. 

20 minutes ago, XCR1250 said:

Do a BG Trans. flush, it's the best.

BG? I've heard numerous times to avoid flushes at all costs but I suppose there is more than one way to do them? With hers only having 50,000km's on it, I think I will just stick with the drain and fill at this point. 

[ActionfigureJoe]

3 hours ago, racinfarmer said:

Manufacturers have a vested interest in their dealers doing well.

They have a vested interest in getting a vehicle through the warranty period. After that, they don’t give a shit. 

[XCR1250]

22 minutes ago, irv said:

I will do that but I will still measure it if I can to set a baseline.

Again, thanks for the info. 

BG? I've heard numerous times to avoid flushes at all costs but I suppose there is more than one way to do them? With hers only having 50,000km's on it, I think I will just stick with the drain and fill at this point. 

Whoever told you that is trying to sell transmissions. Drain and fill does not clean out all the dirt and wear pieces, do the flush.

[teamgreen02]

55 minutes ago, XCR1250 said:

Whoever told you that is trying to sell transmissions. Drain and fill does not clean out all the dirt and wear pieces, do the flush.

If he keeps on top of the maintenance, the drain and fill method at home is just fine.  If you let the transmission fluid get that dirty, it is already too late, the damage is done.  

Our Odyssey just went past 300k on the OG transmission, still shifts like new.  Focus at 200k, same thing.  I just do the drain and fill with the factory fluid.  The Focus has a transmission filter but like someone already mentioned it's a rock catcher.  Looks almost like a piece of foam.  I still replace it since I have the pan off anyways since they aren't that expensive.

[SayatodaU.P.eh?]

GM does not recommend transmission flushes. Currently dealers can do one for the 8 speed TQ shudder but that’s it. BG use to give you a warranty if you keep up with all of their recommended flushes though. 
 

Drain and fill is fine enough for Hydromatic Engineering so it’s fine enough for me. Did a drain and fill on my Duramax last spring and Did one on my 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix as well. Both high mileage. Duramax had 140k on the fluid and the GP had 170k on the fluid. Sent a sample of both vehicles old trans fluid out to Blackstone Labratories and both samples came back with flying colors for their age. The Duramax has had regular spin on transmission filter changes throughout its life, according to all of the maintenance records that I got with it when I bought it. I know both previous owners of the GP. 

[irv]

1 hour ago, SayatodaU.P.eh? said:

GM does not recommend transmission flushes. Currently dealers can do one for the 8 speed TQ shudder but that’s it. BG use to give you a warranty if you keep up with all of their recommended flushes though. 
 

Drain and fill is fine enough for Hydromatic Engineering so it’s fine enough for me. Did a drain and fill on my Duramax last spring and Did one on my 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix as well. Both high mileage. Duramax had 140k on the fluid and the GP had 170k on the fluid. Sent a sample of both vehicles old trans fluid out to Blackstone Laboratories and both samples came back with flying colors for their age. The Duramax has had regular spin on transmission filter changes throughout its life, according to all of the maintenance records that I got with it when I bought it. I know both previous owners of the GP. 

I was told with something that has this type of mileage on it to just leave it alone? My son's truck (Silverado) has 220,000 km's on it (137,000 miles) and the trans fluid is fairly dark looking. It doesn't smell burnt, however, so I was considering doing a full pan removal/filter change and fill but many have said not to because that could cause the transmission to start slipping.

From the previous owner's bills, we seen that it was done back in 2019, but, unfortunately, the mileage at which it was done was not recorded. 

Thoughts? 

[FrankieJames7]

if it has the metal clips holding on those oring seal cooler lines do a flush till all of it is clean

[FrankieJames7]

52 minutes ago, irv said:

I was told with something that has this type of mileage on it to just leave it alone? My son's truck (Silverado) has 220,000 km's on it (137,000 miles) and the trans fluid is fairly dark looking. It doesn't smell burnt, however, so I was considering doing a full pan removal/filter change and fill but many have said not to because that could cause the transmission to start slipping.

From the previous owner's bills, we seen that it was done back in 2019, but, unfortunately, the mileage at which it was done was not recorded. 

Thoughts? 

on newer chevy's and also on other manufactures, there will be these E clip type rings that hold on the cooler lines, find out what one is the ATF out line and disconnect it in 6 seconds, then put a hose on it, start it and then get out and watch the atf flow out of the hose, turn off the engine and add clean atf till it is above the full line on the stick, and repeat till clean. if it does not have those clip coolers you will just have to unbolt it like regular. 137k is a good time for a flush and filter. i just put a used 4l60 with 130k miles into my s10 blazer that i put 7k miles on since the change and the transmission is holding up great after fluid change and filter change

[SayatodaU.P.eh?]

1 hour ago, irv said:

I was told with something that has this type of mileage on it to just leave it alone? My son's truck (Silverado) has 220,000 km's on it (137,000 miles) and the trans fluid is fairly dark looking. It doesn't smell burnt, however, so I was considering doing a full pan removal/filter change and fill but many have said not to because that could cause the transmission to start slipping.

From the previous owner's bills, we seen that it was done back in 2019, but, unfortunately, the mileage at which it was done was not recorded. 

Thoughts? 

Old wives tale. Like I said, I did my car with way more miles on it than that and no issues. If the trans is hurt, and you’re doing a filter/fluid service in hopes of correcting whatever issue it has, you’re not going to save it. 

[irv]

8 minutes ago, SayatodaU.P.eh? said:

Old wives tale. Like I said, I did my car with way more miles on it than that and no issues. If the trans is hurt, and you’re doing a filter/fluid service in hopes of correcting whatever issue it has, you’re not going to save it. 

I wondered that? Right now the trans works great with zero hint of slippage anywhere so based on what I thought was true, I didn't want to fool with it. Many vids, Scotty Kilmer, for example, all say leave it alone!! They claim, as you likely know, the clutch plates are likely worn smooth and the only thing creating friction, in order for the trans to work properly, is the grit found in the fluid.

With the fluid/filter change done back in 2019, I honestly can't see that most of those miles were put on it within the last couple/few years. The previous own did state he pulled a travel trailer during the summer months but I have no idea the size or weight of it? 

[irv]

35 minutes ago, FrankieJames7 said:

on newer chevy's and also on other manufactures, there will be these E clip type rings that hold on the cooler lines, find out what one is the ATF out line and disconnect it in 6 seconds, then put a hose on it, start it and then get out and watch the atf flow out of the hose, turn off the engine and add clean atf till it is above the full line on the stick, and repeat till clean. if it does not have those clip coolers you will just have to unbolt it like regular. 137k is a good time for a flush and filter. i just put a used 4l60 with 130k miles into my s10 blazer that i put 7k miles on since the change and the transmission is holding up great after fluid change and filter change

Thanks Frankie. 

On this truck I think I will just stick with, for now, a pan drop/filter and fluid change. If all goes well, and depending on how quick the new fluid gets dirty, I will consider a procedure like yours. 

[ActionfigureJoe]

1 hour ago, FrankieJames7 said:

on newer chevy's and also on other manufactures, there will be these E clip type rings that hold on the cooler lines, find out what one is the ATF out line and disconnect it in 6 seconds, then put a hose on it, start it and then get out and watch the atf flow out of the hose, turn off the engine and add clean atf till it is above the full line on the stick, and repeat till clean. if it does not have those clip coolers you will just have to unbolt it like regular. 137k is a good time for a flush and filter. i just put a used 4l60 with 130k miles into my s10 blazer that i put 7k miles on since the change and the transmission is holding up great after fluid change and filter change

Changing the fluid on a high mileage trans can cause it to slip. Typically a unit that has closer to 200,000+ miles. Old fluid can hold a lot of metallic particles from the worn clutch packs. The old fluid gives clutch packs the needed friction to function properly because of excessive wear. The metallic particles increase the friction coefficient in the clutch packs. It’s a crapshoot when changing the original fluid on a high mileage unit. 

[irv]

2 hours ago, ActionfigureJoe said:

Changing the fluid on a high mileage trans can cause it to slip. Typically a unit that has closer to 200,000+ miles. Old fluid can hold a lot of metallic particles from the worn clutch packs. The old fluid gives clutch packs the needed friction to function properly because of excessive wear. The metallic particles increase the friction coefficient in the clutch packs. It’s a crapshoot when changing the original fluid on a high mileage unit. 

I believe Saya is correct in saying it is an old wife's tale. Transmission fluid is a lube, it is not there to provide friction to the clutch packs. With most transmissions, especially the type in my son's truck that have internal filter(s) and a magnet(s), I honestly don't think the fluid would be so dirty, so full of grit that it would actually provide friction for the clutch packs to work properly? 

Maybe, just maybe, in a high mileage vehicle like the 200,000+ you mentioned, but I think if anyone is changing it out at that high of mileage, something is likely going wrong with it to begin with? 

[SayatodaU.P.eh?]

3 hours ago, ActionfigureJoe said:

Changing the fluid on a high mileage trans can cause it to slip. Typically a unit that has closer to 200,000+ miles. Old fluid can hold a lot of metallic particles from the worn clutch packs. The old fluid gives clutch packs the needed friction to function properly because of excessive wear. The metallic particles increase the friction coefficient in the clutch packs. It’s a crapshoot when changing the original fluid on a high mileage unit. 

In older transmissions using older fluids, maybe. If a newer auto trans starts slipping after a fluid change, it was on the way out anyway. Again, right from Hydromatic engineering themselves. 

[ActionfigureJoe]

15 minutes ago, SayatodaU.P.eh? said:

In older transmissions using older fluids, maybe. If a newer auto trans starts slipping after a fluid change, it was on the way out anyway. Again, right from Hydromatic engineering themselves. 

True. Yet by leaving it alone they can run for a few more miles. 

[ActionfigureJoe]

33 minutes ago, irv said:

I believe Saya is correct in saying it is an old wife's tale. Transmission fluid is a lube, it is not there to provide friction to the clutch packs. With most transmissions, especially the type in my son's truck that have internal filter(s) and a magnet(s), I honestly don't think the fluid would be so dirty, so full of grit that it would actually provide friction for the clutch packs to work properly? 

Maybe, just maybe, in a high mileage vehicle like the 200,000+ you mentioned, but I think if anyone is changing it out at that high of mileage, something is likely going wrong with it to begin with? 

There’s many transmissions with 200,000+ miles with the factory fluid that are working just fine. IMO I’d leave those alone. My old Sienna had over 300,000 miles. The fluid was changed every 50k from the beginning. In fact, the previous owner dumped the fluid at 1k miles and every 50k thereafter. I sold the van to a hotshot driver running parts to NoDak oil fields. Last I heard the van was approaching 400k and still humming along.