800renegaderider

99 Cherokee sport. It was definitely not what I wanted but it was a fun car couldn’t kill that 4.0

Agree and it’s weird the part doesn’t have a sticker/tag or anything to verify the number. The very least I’d order another just to verify it wasn’t a stamping issue or wrong part sent out.

Oh ya sorry hard to see these numbers on my phone

I’m assuming the invoice says the part number you posted above? If it was me I’d try and order the number I posted 518331523 that’s the number it appears to call for online and appears to look like the original from the sled in the diagram anyways. It seems to be used on many different sleds Mach z xrs etc. https://www.skidoopartshouse.com/oemparts/p/ski_doo/518331523/deep-black-lh-footrest-reinforcement

Are you sure the footrest is #518332306??? I’m on doo now and it’s showing a different number 518331523 and I did checkout and it’s not showing anything being out of stock.

That’s probably more than most I know it’s more than myself currently

It’s either 353k people getting second and third jobs or the real number will be adjusted and revised quietly next month to be much lower

I heard them talking about this on bpr yesterday fucking idiots traded licenses for candy and bottled water 😂

Sadly yes high 40s low 50s fucking sucks ass supposed to be leaving Houlton to do the gaspe in a couple weeks it’s not looking promising 😢.

Nice 👍 definitely looks like he’d need the 23 style which is kinda strange considering the z is a 22. I wonder if there is differences in the roller also?

That bastard lol……….Don't look at next weeks temps

Maybe it’s me or the picture angles but that looks different in a few areas. The outer window on the left of the picture looks wider than the original. It also looks like the rear foot grips in the rear of the window turn down vs up on the original. That 90 corner looks completely different if you cut out the slot where you put a rivet you won’t have anything to rivet too cause it v’s in next to it and the original doesn’t. I’d look it over good before you start grinding stuff and confirm #s are correct.

Ehh it’s not that big of a hole just a little set back lol. It’ll be worth the headache in the end it’ll look much better than a hammered out mess. I’m sure you can definitely find rivets that’ll work we got catalogs full of fasters at work they just may not be an exact match to the doo ones.

It be cheaper to do a 998 swap lol

That sucks I’m kinda shocked they aren’t black.

Voted yes only if it’s a paid holiday because we need more of them. Definitely not on a Saturday I don’t want to ruin a good day with non sense like voting keep that for work days.

NH #1 huh

See that would have been a perfect time to use deadly force

F40, Diablo, mustang, Pam Anderson baywatch what 90s kid didn’t have this, AIC, the limp bizkit guy, korn, staind, tons of magazine fold outs and things I cut out of them of skateboarding, dirtbikes, atvs and sleds. Had those glow stars on the ceiling lol My roommate at tech school had this on the door.

I don’t think people have become selfish retards they’ve always been like that we just see it more now. People use to ride trails before trail systems even existed without permission. People had sleds loud as shit in the 90s without a care in the world for anyone that had to hear them it’s nothing new

lol what a bunch of fucking idiots

I’d think the parts and rivets would be black. I know I’ve gotta black rivets from doo in the past so I think you’re likely good on all black parts like factory from doo. I wouldn’t paint the tunnel either personally and don’t think you’ll have an issue besides touching up the center of the rivets possibly. Everything should be cut exactly the same I’d think and line up exactly like the original piece so no raw aluminum would show. If you can’t get clecos quick enough you don’t really need them just throw a rivet on the end hole on each panel on each end of the panel to use as I line up pin of sorts and use vice grips to hold tightly in place after it’s lined up. The middle holes should line up if one on each end is lined up. If you do this method though put like a bondo spreader or paint stick between the vice grip and panel so it doesn’t scratch it up. Cleco definitely be less of a pain won’t involve needed like 5 hands lol.

Good work. That’s why I said a grinder it’s faster but looks like you got it done. Sometimes you can grab the back of the rivets with dikes or similar tool twist and pull them out after grinding the head off but if not you’d have to drill. The new parts aren’t black? I’d think the new parts would line up and cover the raw aluminum areas and I’d personally just dab some black on the snapped rivet mandrel spots vs painted entire tunnel. If it’s a really small line left around the edges I’d get a nice sword pinstriping brush and touch it up like you’re laying down a pin stripe. If the new pieces don’t cover the raw aluminum areas good and leave big raw aluminum outlines you can definitely paint. Most auto body supply shops will have a camera that can read the paints code and mix you something that’ll match. Etch prime or epoxy the raw aluminum and paint like anything else. Prep the raw aluminum to where you think it’s good then do it again to make sure it’s perfect then prime. We use ppg dplf epoxy at work but it’s very expensive I’m sure there is cheaper alternatives. I’d use an industrial paint if you do the entire tunnel it’ll hold up better. I can ask the painter at work what he recommends I haven’t painted professionally in 10years I’m not sure what paint lines are best anymore.

Just looked it up 231k lotta coin. I’d think you’d get a better deal private party for those type car’s your looking for.