Tomas.

I would hope so. Jap trucks suck lol. I am not really a fan of "most" Jap vehicles in the last 15ish years but there are some exceptions. Also, the Japanese really don't have a 3/4 ton/1 ton regular Joe truck. The titan HD is as close as it gets but it is a meh

I wouldn't say destroyed. Gave a good black eye maybe but they are way farther ahead of us, especially in terms of technology, to have been destroyed. I was watching a documentary on WW2 and they were says that when the first bomb dropped, they had no idea as they were being bombed every day and they thought it was just another raid.

I get that but my statement still stands. It is fucking stupid to call an American engine a "monster from Japan".

Silly that they are calling it Godzilla. It didn't even originate from Japan. There is only one true Godzilla and it ain't no Ford.....

It is hard to beat Gran Turismo Sport on PlayStation for "simulation" style game play. But because it is backed by the FIA. And the hold real tournaments and the like, it requires a constant internet connection. If you are using a PC or Xbox one, Forza Motorsport/Forza Horizon ftmfw. I have a PS4 and a PC and I haven't bothered to buy a Gran Turismo in over a decade. In my opinion, Forza is by far the superior game. Gran Turismo may have some very slight "more realistic driving experience" but that does not out weigh what it lacks compared to Forza. In Forza, you can tune pretty much every measurable thing on a vehicle as well as engine swaps, aspiration changes and drivetrain swaps. Gran Turismo won't let you do that other than some aspiration changes but for some reason it will only allow certain cars to be fitted with turbos or a supercharger. Forza also is way better visually especially when in comes to in car views when driving. I don't know anything about Iracing but if I was looking for a racing game that is fantastic both offline by myself or online against friends/random people, it is extremely hard to beat Forza Motorsport.

I figured out what was going on with the Arctic Cat crossfire primary clutch. I was being a fucking idiot...... I went and looked at it this morning and I was going to pull the primary back off. When I went to loosen the secondary to take the belt off, I found that the belt was way down in sheaves. Turns out my dumb ass somehow managed to get the first and very thin deflection shim cocked when installing the bolt and it prevented the sheaves from being able to close. So there was so much slop in the belt that when the primary engaged, the belt was basically already half way up the primary sheaves. So I straightened out the shim, put it behind a thicker one and made sure it was installed properly. Works almost like it was designed to do it. I was so focused on the primary, I didn't notice the small fuck up on the secondary. Lesson learned.

So I got the clutches all back on the crossfire 600. The only thing I changed in the primary is the spring. I used an aftermarket spring but stock rates. It seems to have an extremely harsh engagement. It still engages at 4000 rpm. Any ideas? The weights and rollers move free with no notches or ridges.

This smaller dealership sells the whole brp lineup but I wouldn't say the were a "high volume dealership". It is weird as well because I am out west and with the mountains so close, it can always be a great sledding season if you want to drive a few hours. Off-road is also huge as well.

I guess the Arctic Cat lawsuit didn't pay out enough. Just posted on Facebook that a local brp dealer that after 42 years of selling brp products, brp is pulling the plug on them. In their post, they are blaming a large part of it on brp being a publicly traded company now. Regardless of the reason, it is pretty sad.

Ok. On a spring chart, my secondary spring should be 4.7"/11.9cm free length and my spring is 4.25"/10.8cm long in free length. That has to have some sort of a negative effect. I have a new spring on order to replace it. Just stock rates and go from there. It really sucks that I still have to wait another 3-4 months before I can even find out what the difference is lmao

I was doing some more research and I may have come up with another possibility on my missing rpms and speed on the switchback 700. So when I replaced my primary spring last season, there was a huge difference in length between the old one and the new spring with the new spring being considerably longer. The old one was completely sacked out. So if my secondary spring is also completely sacked out as well, I would be loosing rpms and clutch movement. I will be ordering a new spring for the secondary and trying that out.

Today I changed the primary spring in my 07 crossfire and added the Venom delrin washer kit to stop spring bind. I don't know if the spring was binding before but at a cost of $15, I put them in. I put in a Venom primary spring which matches the original spring rates as the sled didn't have a problem before. It is my wife's sled that the occasional friend uses and it is way too fast for all of them as it is lmao. The old primary spring was gross. Definitely due for a change but it was actually a hair longer than the new spring but the metal was rusting and probably close to being compromised. Thank you once again to F7Ben for being a super nice guy and answering all my silly questions. Now I need to get 7 shocks out of both the switchback and crossfire and get them sent off to Alaska before the gnome goes back to Arizona for the winter lol (only 7 because I had the center shock on the crossfire rebuilt locally last winter because it was blown and not doing much).

The rpm problem is on my 08 switchback. The clutch I posted yesterday was for my 07 crossfire. From what I gather, because my switchback 700 has a 144" 2" paddle track, it could be why I am loosing a lot of top speed. But they made an rmk 700 and one would assume that even though they have a longer track than me, they are still hitting the right rpm. Last year I put on a Venom lime green primary spring (150/340) and new 10-62 (what was in it before). I changed the weights because the old weights had worn out bushings and the weights were rubbing on the spider. I also put in delrin washers in the secondary to help with spring bind. I will be pulling the secondary apart this year to replace the spring.

Well my clutch springs came in today. So the secondary got a new OEM orange spring and updated arctic cat hi-temp rollers. Unfortunately my marks got rubbed off. The internet said to line up the diamond drive logos. Hopes and dreams!! Lol I forgot my 3/8" torque wrench but supposedly the helix screws are 109in/lbs. So as tight as I dared with a 1/4" ratchet and tried my best to tighten everything evenly. The new screws came from arctic cat with loctite already on them. As the fucking should at $4.23 each and $40 for 9 of them.

Yes. I wasn't sure if someone had some sitting on a shelf or had a buddy who might of had some lying around.

Both sold already

I am looking for the modules to change the draw length to 30" on my 2008 Bowtech General. They modules are cpx 1 I wasn't sure if anyone was into bows or knows someone who is. The bow is 12 years old so I just can't go buy them lol.

On top of that, we used to (before factory farming and other horrible food practices) spend roughly 16% of our income on food and roughly 4% on health care. Now we are spending 4% on food and 16% on health care. I am not saying that there aren't other factors at play but it definitely should be raising questions that nobody wants to look at.

Fuck that is funny. I may have played an absolute shit ton of call of duty lol.

You it is worth spending another $120 to get those extra 200 rpms? New, updated rollers are in!

An edit to the post above as I found the spec sheet for my sled. It says 2000-4000 ft use 10-64g weights and 4000-6000 use 10-62g weights. Would the 2g difference drop my rpm 300ish?

Because I cannot find the old thread and the new search restrictions have taken about 15 mins of my life away to try and find it, I am starting a new thread. I know it is early but I am getting a head start while it is still warm and nicer weather to work in. Although up here in the Edmonton area we have been getting down around 9°c/48°c at night. We have also had a pile of rain this year so I hope precipitation carries on through the winter. The things I need/want to get done for the season is clutching and shock work. Some of you may remember that last year I was servicing my 08 D7 SB clutches. I also could not get above 71mph. I was looking on the interwebs and I am starting to second guess my clutch weights. I just put in new 10-62g weights last year (may have 500kms on them). That is the same as what I took out. But for some reason my engine won't get above 7800 rpm. I was looking online and it would seem that for a 2012 rmk 800 elevation 2000-4000ft, it should be using a 10-66g weight. I cannot find any chart or really any information for my 08 d7. But would switching to a 10-66g or even a 10-64g weight help me reach the 8100-8200 rpms and get a higher top speed or would adding weight be the wrong way to go? Thank you.

Ya, being a small island country is hard when you pretty much cannot do or make anything and rely 90% on tourism lol. But still, it is hard to think after thousands of years of civilization and democracy, they are in that bad of disarray. You would think they would be the role model, at lest in that regard. They have had enough time to work the bugs out lol.