Hoping to get a little help but I'm seeing high idle on a '15 6000 (600 ctec2).  Upon initial start up, 2200-2500 rpm, but then when running it and coming to a stop 3500 rpm.  throttle cable checks out, it has slack and is not tight.  throttle body shuts all the way.  Can't seem to find any air leaks with starting fluid.  new reeds on last year.  On occasion it does start kind of funny and backfire a bit.  .  Not a lot of these I can find where people with 600 ctec2 had high idle.  I've seen where it could be the IAC, or maybe an injector.  Any insight would be great as I'm kind of perplexed, thanks in advance.  Just looking to solve without taking to a dealer as we don't have a dealer close by anymore.  

Edited January 30, 20232 yr by cats19

Does it idle down after you’re stopped for a bit?

17 minutes ago, Palu49 said:

Does it idle down after you’re stopped for a bit?

no it does not.

IDK tbh, but what does the coolant temp read when it's warmed up and is idling high?  

3 hours ago, Crnr2Crnr said:

IDK tbh, but what does the coolant temp read when it's warmed up and is idling high?  

Coolant temp normal reading, nothing out of the ordinary.  

23 minutes ago, cats19 said:

Coolant temp normal reading, nothing out of the ordinary.  

ok, if it was operating at normal temp but the coolant sensor was reading low it might up the idle speed.  IDK if a pipe temp sensor on that one might do the same.

Keep us posted 

37 minutes ago, Crnr2Crnr said:

ok, if it was operating at normal temp but the coolant sensor was reading low it might up the idle speed.  IDK if a pipe temp sensor on that one might do the same.

Keep us posted 

If a sensor was not working properly - do you know - would it throw a code or no? 

 

1 hour ago, cats19 said:

If a sensor was not working properly - do you know - would it throw a code or no? 

 

Not always, also not suggesting throwing parts at it.

 

Does it bog when you hit the gas? Could be sucking air from a crank seal but I’d imagine that would show up with the ether unless it’s mag side and or have leaned out enough to hurt itself by now. Checked compression? I just did crank seals on my 17 in the sled when I did the top end and it wasn’t a big deal at all to do. Could pull and clean injectors to rile that out although that’ll usually cause opposite effect it’s free though. Injector pigtail some carb clean, piece of hose and a 12v source is all you need for that. IAC you can’t really test or see into to make sure it’s running through its cycle and closing without a scan tool but possible if you have another buddy with a cat you could try it out. Check exhaust valve cable lengths although I don’t think that’d have any bearing it’s another free check and could be out of spec causing issues else where.

2 hours ago, Palu49 said:

Does it bog when you hit the gas? Could be sucking air from a crank seal but I’d imagine that would show up with the ether unless it’s mag side and or have leaned out enough to hurt itself by now. Checked compression? I just did crank seals on my 17 in the sled when I did the top end and it wasn’t a big deal at all to do. Could pull and clean injectors to rile that out although that’ll usually cause opposite effect it’s free though. Injector pigtail some carb clean, piece of hose and a 12v source is all you need for that. IAC you can’t really test or see into to make sure it’s running through its cycle and closing without a scan tool but possible if you have another buddy with a cat you could try it out. Check exhaust valve cable lengths although I don’t think that’d have any bearing it’s another free check and could be out of spec causing issues else where.

Thanks Palu49, appreciate the input.  I'm going to the spray test again one last time even though I couldn't tell any difference the other two times I tried but maybe I wasn's spraying enough.  I will try swapping an IAC - hoping it's that.  I will double check the Power valve cable length and see if it's within spec.  I didn't quite fully understand what you meant for sure when you said: Injector pigtail some carb clean, piece of hose and a 12v source is all you need for that.

38 minutes ago, cats19 said:

Thanks Palu49, appreciate the input.  I'm going to the spray test again one last time even though I couldn't tell any difference the other two times I tried but maybe I wasn's spraying enough.  I will try swapping an IAC - hoping it's that.  I will double check the Power valve cable length and see if it's within spec.  I didn't quite fully understand what you meant for sure when you said: Injector pigtail some carb clean, piece of hose and a 12v source is all you need for that.

For cleaning the injectors you can use a small piece of fuel hose sealed over the red tube on the carb clean. Shove it into the end of the injector, tape it up with electrical tape tape it the same on the can side. Buy an injector pig tail from an auto parts store EV1 connector. Plug that into the injector you’re cleaning, secure the positive side to your 12v source and tap the negative on and off as you tap the spray nozzle for the carb clean. It’s not the scientifically perfect way to do it but it works good and definitely works good enough for simple troubleshooting without sending them to a shop with an injector bench.

Blip your throttle once or twice after 10-15 seconds.  

It should idle down.

On 1/31/2023 at 7:50 PM, racinfarmer said:

Blip your throttle once or twice after 10-15 seconds.  

It should idle down.

I wish it did but it doesn't.

wanted to give update to this problem.  Did another spray test with the hood off this time and with the hood off you can spray directly behind the primary clutch and that indicated that seal needed replacing.  Doing the spray test with hood on it's hard to get the spray behind clutch because that alignment plate is so close to the bearing.  So lesson learned when doing a spray test.  thanks for everyone's suggestions.  Seal replaced and idles perfect.

41 minutes ago, cats19 said:

wanted to give update to this problem.  Did another spray test with the hood off this time and with the hood off you can spray directly behind the primary clutch and that indicated that seal needed replacing.  Doing the spray test with hood on it's hard to get the spray behind clutch because that alignment plate is so close to the bearing.  So lesson learned when doing a spray test.  thanks for everyone's suggestions.  Seal replaced and idles perfect.

That's good info!  I have a Polaris that needs crank seals and I keep putting it off.  Eventually, I will have to pay the piper.  Fortunately, the sled is basically a backup at this point and doesn't get used much.