irv

Nice! Planning on having a big family I see.

Can't believe the talent of some people! These blow me away. http://www.net54baseball.com/showthread.php?t=117391 107 pgs, just hit the arrow on the lower right side to see more.

Same to you, Stoney, and everyone else! Hope everyone had a great day.

Didn't realize you had downspouts? Thought you currently had nothing?

Looking good, 04! Sorry if I missed it, but what's the square footage of that? Looks like a good size house.

Definitely time to get that off, George. I'm anal but I would build a Teepee over that with a tarp or get it shrink wrapped rather than just let the snow accumulate on top of your boat cover as it will severely shorten it's life and may allow water to enter the boat. Lots are available but it's pretty easy to build your own.

The only problem with having no eaves/downspouts is if the water/run off is close to the house. Obviously not a problem for those with no basements but it can lead to flooding for those that do. I have heard many up north take their eaves/downspouts off in the fall/winter for reason you mention, George, but I assume they are put back on early in the spring? My ice dam is shrinking pretty good this morning! It's +3 here already!

It is difficult to get the whole roof of any house but if you can expose the bottom 3-6 foot section or go as high as your roof rake allows it is much better than just leaving the insulating snow blanket on top of your ice dam. This way, at least the sun is able to heat/warm the roof/eaves and evaporate or help melt the ice dam. I have never once cleaned my whole roof, just what I mentioned and it definitely helped reduce the size of my ice dam. Any water than runs down from the snow above gets heated by the roof and helps melt the dam. It has worked for me anyways.

It was one of those war time houses with 2 bedrooms upstairs. The attic space was in 2 side hatches as you went upstairs. I re-insulated that area only as the rest was too tough to get at. It helped, but after my incident, I cleaned the roof off with a snow rake practically after every big snow fall. No snow to melt, no ice dams. With nothing to melt you will have nothing to form ice dams with.

Could be? I believe the clutches are basically the only difference between the two, other than paint of course.

Same with a friend I know, said it rocked and rode/handled great. I believe he purchased the Cat copy, not the Yamaha one.

If it hasn't happened to you then I disagree, to point. In our old house (built in the 40's) we had severe ice dams where the water actually started dripping through the ceiling. It was a nightmare and a quick installation of more insulation and the clearing of ice from the gutters. It wasn't fun!! Our latest house, when I had the roof done, 10+ yrs ago, we had the ice and water shield installed from gutter to the peak on the cathedral side but only 6 feet, or what the ever the code now says, on the left side of the house. Colored me paranoid but after having to deal with the mess at my old house, I more than concerned with our new one and wish I had of had the shield installed all the way to the peak on other side. It builds up right where the bathrooms are and of course that side doesn't receive a whole lot of sun (faces the east but neighbors house blocks the morning sun) so I get very little melting to help dissolve the dam. Obviously, I should have dealt with this when I noticed it this past summer, (not from a lack of trying) but with the very limited room I got claustrophobic trying to climb up in there. Guess this spring I will be calling someone to do it for me.

Yep, for sure! Any excess snow you can remove will obviously not contribute to more/bigger ice dams and allow the sun to help melt away the dam when it's not too cold. I purchased one a few years ago too and use on the other side of the roof where it's easier to get too. The real problem side is high up and that is why I use those pucks. Lots of vids/info on Youtube. More here: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=roof+ice+dam+fixes Good luck!!

I purchased a bucket of these last winter but I am unsure if they work or work as good as they suggest? I just threw 2 up there last week but with the fluctuating temps it's hard to tell if they actually do anything but it's all I have currently. http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/roof-melt-tablets-0596978p.html

This may also work, Tim? I purchased some to help take the scratches/haze off my e-visor on my helmet. I had limited success but I likely didn't do it correctly or took my time like I should have. I believe my folks purchased it state side as it was difficult to get here at the time but that may have changed now?

You need a picture resizer as they are likely too big for uploading here? https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=picture resizer windows I am also currently dealing with ice dams, and have been for more than a few years now. I had a look this summer and realized, when I had my roof done 10+ yrs ago, that the rookers installed new bathroom vents on my roof but didn't connect them to the exhaust fans!! I need to get up there or need to have someone get up there and connect these but the room/area is tight and a bunch of insulation will have to be removed in order to create some room. In the mean time, I have taped off the inside exhaust fans and told my wife and son to leave a crack in the bathroom door and/or a crack in the window to help the steam/heat escape.

LOL, nope, but maybe this year? One thing, and I know you guys don't want to hear it, but some of those guys/gals who make that type of money worked a shit load of overtime. OPG hasn't hired full time people in years, all in an effort to help keep costs down so there is never a shortage of overtime for those that want/need it. So, you see, it's a double edged sword, we are damned if we do and damned if we don't. People want costs kept down but yet are the first to complain when someone makes over a 100 g's a year without even thinking about all the overtime they've worked. Some of those jobs listed pay very well, and rightfully so, as you need talented/skilled/smart people running these Nuke plants, not a bunch of dummies who are paid peanuts who would have no idea what to do if there were ever an incident. A control room sno has a ton a responsibility and has the power/knowledge to oversee crisis, can shut down a unit if need be, etc, etc. He is even more trained/knowledgeable than some of our panel operators. Personally, I don't know how these guys do it. Running a Nuke Plant is nothing like it is in the real world but yet there are others out there who make similar/same/more who have far less responsibility. As an aside, OPG, Hydro One, OEB, Auditor General, etc, etc, all warned McGuinty, Wynne and the rest of the Liberal Gov't that forging ahead with there Green Energy plan would lead to the crisis we are in now, but of course, their arrogance, greater than though attitudes didn't listen and we are in this mess now. I am just thankful, being an OPG employee, that I get my Hydro for free!

I am hoping to get out tomorrow or Friday, (Time permitting?) to get a shakedown/pre-warm up ride in. The weather for Monday sucks, at this point, and I'm sure it will hurt my local trails significantly!

Congratulations, Yami123! That's awesome news. Enjoy!

Fuck off with all your negativity already! You looking for a hero cookie or something? Every thread, you're pounding your chest like it's the smartest thing you have ever said. Take a hike!

Link? From the reading I have done, I can find "Nothing" that can prove Yamalube (4 stroke) oil is any better, in any way, than any other available 4 stroke oil. The Mobil-1 I use, European Formula, is a better quality oil than a regular N/A oil as it does in fact have more zinc in it. I read, for what it's worth, a Yamalube user had his oil tested (UOA) and it was basically spent after just 600 miles. Lots on TY also use Rotella-T 0W-40 and have been for years without issue. If Yamalube was all that, and it could be proven it is worth 2-3 X times the price of regular or synthetic oil, I'd buy it in a heartbeat, but most, who don't believe the hype/crap, know there is nothing special about it at all. Oil and filter can be purchased purchased almost anywhere. Where I get mine is a lot closer than driving to the dealers. What's with needing a new washer every time you change the oil? I have done hundreds of oil changes throughout the years on a variety of vehicles/machines and not once have I change out the drain plug washer. Well, maybe 99.9% of them do? Been out on your's yet, Chris? It's been a 2 long year wait for this guy!

That's a bit much but if they drive fairly slow and for short distances where some deep heat isn't allowed to build up, he may have a point? The only true way to tell, which 99.9% of the population doesn't do, is to have an oil analysis done on the used oil. Yes, oil is cheap and with 4 stroke sleds, usually (depending on miles) a once a year oil change is all that is required. I believe Yamaha also has a kit, and I also believe the price of their oil/filters has also come down. I don't know, I guess I am overly frugal/cheap or whatever but I just can't bring myself to paying double for something that I know isn't anymore special than what I can get off the shelf for half price or less.

Maybe their hoping to get more money out of you? $100 dollar oil change or $2500+ engine job. In anything that has any miles on it then a once a year, at minimum, oil change is recommended. It will likely state that in your owners manual and/or on the bottle of oil regardless of miles.

Oils have come a long ways over the years, and running synthetic is definitely an added bonus. If mine wasn't synthetic, I'd change it out in a heartbeat knowing dino oil, especially if opened/used, breaks down/ages a lot quicker than synthetic does. I am likely about as anal a guy can be about oil changes, (except for some at bob is the oil guy .com ) but having no miles/hours on oil is definitely different than having a some miles, or driven very slow where moisture, etc, can't burn off. In that case, acids can form, moisture can cause damage etc. If that were the case with me, I wouldn't think twice about changing it out, but since I am running synthetic and my sled has zero miles on it since, except for a quick warm up right after the last oil change, I think I will be fine. This is likely a topic where it could be debated to death? Some will say I had better and some will say no, I have nothing to worry about. Personally, I think I am going to leave it, and my gear oil, as both are synthetic and both have zero miles on them.

Just reminiscing about the old FS days and busting balls, Kev. No need to get snippy now.