*****Official***** chainsaw owners thread

[1jkw]

I have an 051 AV with a 36" bar and a 180 c Stihl, the 051 will cut nearly anything but is very heavy, the 180 is pretty good for an inexpensive saw.

[01mxz800]

1 hour ago, Rigid1 said:

 

Best of luck finding the correct tool to adjust those carbs,..I'm sure you guys are handy,..but FYI,.. 10k fine for the dealer that sells the correct carb adjusting tool to fit..Again the government regulations kicking your ass,..supposedly from the factory they are adjusted for max performance and emissions per our wonderful government ,.. Hence them not running..no emissions.. All you guys with the newer Poulan's go look at your plastics and carbs,..any easy access holes to get at the L and H screws?? 

all you need is a blue electrical butt connector on the end of a pic or long drywall screw, works just fine no issues at all, you can buy the tool on ebay legally just not at a dealer,

it's not illegal to adjust them the dealer can do that, just illegal to sell the tool, tool easy to obtain online

 

Edited October 2, 2016 by 01mxz800

[sear]

Alright.

Can you carb adjuster experts post a brief, simple procedure on how to adjust a carb?

I've gotten an engine running by fiddling with the adjustments.

But I don't really understand how to optimize for performance.

I ride a Yamaha XT-250 which backfires when I shift. It's done this since the showroom floor. Other XT riders say a carb adjustment will fix it.

[stealth bomber]

4 hours ago, Rigid1 said:

 

Best of luck finding the correct tool to adjust those carbs,..I'm sure you guys are handy,..but FYI,.. 10k fine for the dealer that sells the correct carb adjusting tool to fit..Again the government regulations kicking your ass,..supposedly from the factory they are adjusted for max performance and emissions per our wonderful government ,.. Hence them not running..no emissions.. All you guys with the newer Poulan's go look at your plastics and carbs,..any easy access holes to get at the L and H screws?? 

The saw has very easy access to the H and L mixture screws as well as the throttle stop screw.  Large holes in the side cover that are marked, the carb is marked also.  The  screws are the splined type and the correct tools are all over eBay, but it can be done with the blue butt connector trick as 01mxz said.  I'll leave it alone until I get a couple more tanks of fuel through it and the weather turns a bit colder.  Been running 30:1 oil mix for break in so maybe that doesn't help either.  

[sear]

"  Been running 30:1 oil mix for break in  "

You've got me curious.

I have a vintage 6-pack of Stihl 2 cycle oil. Each bottle is 2.6 oz, and lists as mixing w/ one gallon of gasoline.

But the price tag on it is $9.oo and it's so old, I'm guessing by now it would sell for $12.oo

While at a home center (probably Lowe's or Home Depot) I got some generic bottles, also 2.6 oz. The label lists multiple ratios, from 40: to 16:1.

Am I really supposed to believe the contents of the orange bottle is that far superior to the contents of the black bottle?

 And regardless of what the label says * isn't there more difference between the bottles than the oil they contain? They're both 2.6 oz.

* I understand. Each is engineered for a specific application. BUT !! That's an optimization issue. In differential analysis, am I supposed to believe the oil from the orange bottle will have my Stihl for perpetuity, but the generic will blow it up before lunchtime?

[Rigid1]

Solo...........  A buddy of mine I sell saws and chain to..He likes his saws like we like sleds..