Liggett Posted May 15, 2022 Share Posted May 15, 2022 Going thru every nut, bolt, bearing, shock, spring, stud, carbide, and bogie wheel on my new to me 2016 Pro S Switchback 600. Might even update it with an Artic FX wrap. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liggett Posted June 27, 2022 Share Posted June 27, 2022 making progress.... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liggett Posted July 2, 2022 Share Posted July 2, 2022 Picked up my clutch kit, jack and drive shaft bearings, fuel tank filter and A-arm bushings from Northstar Performance Thursday. Look what I found when installing the A-Arm bushings yesterday! Ya's never have noticed it without removing or turning sled on it's side and looking for it! New one ordered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liggett Posted July 2, 2022 Share Posted July 2, 2022 And replacing this over-dealer lubricated bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted July 3, 2022 Author Share Posted July 3, 2022 4 hours ago, Liggett said: And replacing this over-dealer lubricated bearing. That could lead into a couple different options on amount of grease. I lube mine with an Amsoil water resistant grease that has more grease than that and never had a failure. Pull the seal clean and grease it about every 1000 miles. The below pic is from my 2022 XCR before I ever rode it. It had a lot more grease than my 2021 had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mag6240 Posted July 3, 2022 Share Posted July 3, 2022 12,034 miles on this jackshaft bearing - greased at 240, and regressed at 6550. I didn’t even touch it this year. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mag6240 Posted July 3, 2022 Share Posted July 3, 2022 Trying this on two sleds this year. Jackshaft bearing deflector modified to fit the driveshaft. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liggett Posted July 3, 2022 Share Posted July 3, 2022 Interesting. The Northstar greasable bearing I'm going to use has steel seals with grease holes in the outboard race to allow the grease from the grease nippled cup to get to the bearing. I've got the same one on the driveshaft of my 2014. I'll post a picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted July 3, 2022 Author Share Posted July 3, 2022 2 hours ago, Mag6240 said: Trying this on two sleds this year. Jackshaft bearing deflector modified to fit the driveshaft. Nice plan that should help to keep the water out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mag6240 Posted July 3, 2022 Share Posted July 3, 2022 3 hours ago, Doug said: Nice plan that should help to keep the water out. Well it works on the jackshaft in the tunnel, why wouldn’t it work on the driveshaft?? Hopefully I have an “average” year and will see what that bearing looks like after a couple thousand miles mid-season. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted July 3, 2022 Author Share Posted July 3, 2022 16 minutes ago, Mag6240 said: Well it works on the jackshaft in the tunnel, why wouldn’t it work on the driveshaft?? Hopefully I have an “average” year and will see what that bearing looks like after a couple thousand miles mid-season. I clean my clutches every 700 to 1000 miles and grease the bearing at the same time. The older sleds use to have a decal to grease the bearing every 1000 miles. Poor maintenance has wrecked more than on ride in our group 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mag6240 Posted July 3, 2022 Share Posted July 3, 2022 (edited) 13 minutes ago, Doug said: I clean my clutches every 700 to 1000 miles and grease the bearing at the same time. The older sleds use to have a decal to grease the bearing every 1000 miles. Poor maintenance has wrecked more than on ride in our group I’ve found 2000-2500 is a pretty safe number depending on trip plans - clutches get cleaned and new weight bushings at that mileage as well. Edited July 3, 2022 by Mag6240 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liggett Posted July 3, 2022 Share Posted July 3, 2022 1 hour ago, Mag6240 said: Well it works on the jackshaft in the tunnel, why wouldn’t it work on the driveshaft?? Hopefully I have an “average” year and will see what that bearing looks like after a couple thousand miles mid-season. At the very least, that deflector could help keep ice from destroying the seal. I wonder why they don't fit guards like that at the factory at the ends of BOTH shafts since ice has been known to take out chaincase seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liggett Posted July 4, 2022 Share Posted July 4, 2022 Here's the pictures I promised of the driveshaft bearing that's going in my 2016 SB Pro S. You'll notice that it has a steel seal on the inside and no seal on the cup (outer) side. Once installed, you need to fill the cavity with grease until you can feel grease being pushed out of the inside steel seal. After that, a couple pumps a year. Contact Northstar Performance in Conway, NH if interested. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liggett Posted July 16, 2022 Share Posted July 16, 2022 Old bearings are off and new jackshaft bearing pressed on. Need to wait for a new driveshaft inner bearing mount thanks to ham-fisting the old one. Rebuilt FTS installed with new dual-rate spring; infinite easy-adjustable limiter strap installed. All thanks to my "younger" and more flexible bud that came 35 miles one-way to give me a hand today. I'll get the chaincase buttoned up and filled tomorrow and start on power-valve R&R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted July 16, 2022 Author Share Posted July 16, 2022 1 hour ago, Liggett said: Old bearings are off and new jackshaft bearing pressed on. Need to wait for a new driveshaft inner bearing mount thanks to ham-fisting the old one. Rebuilt FTS installed with new dual-rate spring; infinite easy-adjustable limiter strap installed. All thanks to my "younger" and more flexible bud that came 35 miles one-way to give me a hand today. I'll get the chaincase buttoned up and filled tomorrow and start on power-valve R&R. Also shim the skis if they have not been already. Help with darting and the front of the carbides from prematurely wearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liggett Posted July 16, 2022 Share Posted July 16, 2022 Yep, planning on it. The PO did not have them shimmed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted July 16, 2022 Author Share Posted July 16, 2022 (edited) 54 minutes ago, Liggett said: Yep, planning on it. The PO did not have them shimmed. Here's a print of the shim if you don't have one. I make them from .25 plastic. There's also some guys that cut off the end of a slide and use them but I've seen where they start to collapse and lose the effect of shimming the skis Edited July 16, 2022 by Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liggett Posted July 18, 2022 Share Posted July 18, 2022 (edited) Thank you. I ordered some from Bergstrom but I'll compare them to your measurements. I'm supposed to get the spindles back from powder coat tomorrow. Edited July 18, 2022 by Liggett 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liggett Posted July 24, 2022 Share Posted July 24, 2022 New A-Arm on, spindles back from powder coat. Still waiting for a couple parts I'm hoping will arrive this week. I had to do a preview. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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