Gold Member BOHICA Posted February 12, 2021 Gold Member Share Posted February 12, 2021 Upper right corner in the picture connection to main.... Is my assumption that I’m going to tap into the main feeder wires with a Polaris style insulated connector? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f7ben Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 Just hire a real electrician you pole monkey 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Crappie Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 5 minutes ago, BOHICA said: Upper right corner in the picture connection to main.... Is my assumption that I’m going to tap into the main feeder wires with a Polaris style insulated connector? Sounds sketchy but yes, that is what they are telling you to do. Just me but I'd verify with the utility and the inspector first. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member BOHICA Posted February 12, 2021 Author Gold Member Share Posted February 12, 2021 28 minutes ago, f7ben said: Just hire a real electrician you pole monkey Why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f7ben Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 Just now, BOHICA said: Why? Because that’s way beyond setting a pole or tugging some cable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member BOHICA Posted February 12, 2021 Author Gold Member Share Posted February 12, 2021 (edited) 10 minutes ago, f7ben said: Because that’s way beyond setting a pole or tugging some cable Making electrical connections is challenging? Edited February 12, 2021 by BOHICA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f7ben Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 1 minute ago, BOHICA said: Making electrical connections is challenging I know....that’s why you chose to climb poles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member BOHICA Posted February 12, 2021 Author Gold Member Share Posted February 12, 2021 44 minutes ago, f7ben said: I know....that’s why you chose to climb poles It wasn’t a statement but a question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f7ben Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 1 minute ago, BOHICA said: It wasn’t a statement but a question I’ll ask the questions here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motonoggin Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 That seems fucked. Why not just put the 100a disconnect breaker right in the panel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member BOHICA Posted February 12, 2021 Author Gold Member Share Posted February 12, 2021 51 minutes ago, motonoggin said: That seems fucked. Why not just put the 100a disconnect breaker right in the panel? My solar array is going to be way to big to back feed through the panel... max you can back feed across my 200 amp panel is 40 amps. I have to tie into the supply side of my main to meet code with such a large system. https://sunwatts.com/how-to-connect-pv-solar-to-utility-grid/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member BOHICA Posted February 12, 2021 Author Gold Member Share Posted February 12, 2021 (edited) 14 hours ago, Big Crappie said: Sounds sketchy but yes, that is what they are telling you to do. Just me but I'd verify with the utility and the inspector first. After some research it is pretty common especially with larger arrays and small commercial scale solar generation. Got into my power companies literature and their equipment stops at the street side connections in my my meter base. The supply side wire of my main that runs from the meter is mine. On DIY the inspector in my local has to do a rough in inspection prior to work starting... he needs to see everything on the ground before I start and verify UL listings. He said the only thing that I can do before he has a look is install my panel racking. I may just hire a licensed electrician to make the final connection onto the supply side wires once built. I could make the final connection to supply side hot but I’m sure the inspector or power company would throw a hissy fit on something like that. this leads me to another question... I have put a couple 240 volt circuits without permits or inspection... my 20 amp 240 volt is with 12/2 but with black and white insulation.... I taped the white wire in my panel with black tape to identify hot.... legit? Edited February 12, 2021 by BOHICA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Crappie Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 16 minutes ago, BOHICA said: After some research it is pretty common especially with larger arrays and small commercial scale solar generation. Got into my power companies literature and their equipment stops at the street side connections in my my meter base. The supply side wire of my main that runs from the meter is mine. On DIY the inspector in my local has to do a rough in inspection prior to work starting... he needs to see everything on the ground before I start and verify UL listings. He said the only thing that I can do before he has a look is install my panel racking. I may just hire a licensed electrician to make the final connection onto the supply side wires once built. I could make the final connection to supply side hot but I’m sure the inspector or power company would throw a hissy fit on something like that. this leads me to another question... I have put a couple 240 volt circuits without permits or inspection... my 20 amp 240 volt is with 12/2 but with black and white insulation.... I taped the white wire in my panel with black tape to identify hot.... legit? Yep, taping the white with black tape to identify it as hot is ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member BOHICA Posted February 12, 2021 Author Gold Member Share Posted February 12, 2021 1 minute ago, Big Crappie said: Yep, taping the white with black tape to identify it as hot is ok. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member BOHICA Posted March 25, 2021 Author Gold Member Share Posted March 25, 2021 (edited) See any flags as far as inspection is concerned? Box next to the main panel is the combiner... four 20 amp breaks each go to 4 different arrays. 4 runs of 10/2 will come into it. 100 amp break runs right out back with #6 thwn 2 to the fused side of disconnect... out of the knife blades it goes directly into main panel with #6 where I will make connection to the line side of my main breaker. Any licensed electricians see any code violations thus far? Edited March 25, 2021 by BOHICA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ez ryder Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 On 2/12/2021 at 9:33 AM, BOHICA said: After some research it is pretty common especially with larger arrays and small commercial scale solar generation. Got into my power companies literature and their equipment stops at the street side connections in my my meter base. The supply side wire of my main that runs from the meter is mine. On DIY the inspector in my local has to do a rough in inspection prior to work starting... he needs to see everything on the ground before I start and verify UL listings. He said the only thing that I can do before he has a look is install my panel racking. I may just hire a licensed electrician to make the final connection onto the supply side wires once built. I could make the final connection to supply side hot but I’m sure the inspector or power company would throw a hissy fit on something like that. this leads me to another question... I have put a couple 240 volt circuits without permits or inspection... my 20 amp 240 volt is with 12/2 but with black and white insulation.... I taped the white wire in my panel with black tape to identify hot.... legit? You think a sparky is going to want to pull a permit and put his insurance on the line for a home owner job that he is only involed in the last hr of work? Unless you know him he knows you and have worked together a lot before good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ez ryder Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 51 minutes ago, BOHICA said: See any flags as far as inspection is concerned? Box next to the main panel is the combiner... four 20 amp breaks each go to 4 different arrays. 4 runs of 10/2 will come into it. 100 amp break runs right out back with #6 thwn 2 to the fused side of disconnect... out of the knife blades it goes directly into main panel with #6 where I will make connection to the line side of my main breaker. Any licensed electricians see any code violations thus far? Are they not requiring a full arc fault box on a major job like this in your parts ? Just adding a sub pannel on last big remodel job they made owner do all arc fault . Total bullshit but what are you going to do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member BOHICA Posted March 25, 2021 Author Gold Member Share Posted March 25, 2021 2 minutes ago, Ez ryder said: You think a sparky is going to want to pull a permit and put his insurance on the line for a home owner job that he is only involed in the last hr of work? Unless you know him he knows you and have worked together a lot before good luck In my area they have to get a permit for the work they are doing and only what they are doing. They wouldn’t be signing off on any of my work. No sparky needed as the connectors I’m using are self piercing and my local AHJ signed of on the use of what I am using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member BOHICA Posted March 25, 2021 Author Gold Member Share Posted March 25, 2021 (edited) 13 minutes ago, Ez ryder said: Are they not requiring a full arc fault box on a major job like this in your parts ? Just adding a sub pannel on last big remodel job they made owner do all arc fault . Total bullshit but what are you going to do Solar I think is a bit different and has some of its own codes. If there is a fault the inverters shut down cause they require stable grid to generate power... it’s not a load but a source going through these breakers My only concern thus far is the proper way to run the #6 thru the wall to the disconnect and back to the panel.... all the panels and disconnect are back to back and go thru the wall.... so basically hole saw from knock out through wall. thwn 2 must be installed in conduit do it used some liquid tite and connectors between the panels to run wire in.... Edited March 25, 2021 by BOHICA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Crappie Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 14 minutes ago, BOHICA said: Solar I think is a bit different and has some of its own codes. If there is a fault the inverters shut down cause they require stable grid to generate power... it’s not a load but a source going through these breakers My only concern thus far is the proper way to run the #6 thru the wall to the disconnect and back to the panel.... all the panels and disconnect are back to back and go thru the wall.... so basically hole saw from knock out through wall. thwn 2 must be installed in conduit do it used some liquid tite and connectors between the panels to run wire in.... rigid nipple with lock nut and plastic bushing on each end or if long enough chase nipples. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member BOHICA Posted March 25, 2021 Author Gold Member Share Posted March 25, 2021 (edited) 16 minutes ago, Big Crappie said: rigid nipple with lock nut and plastic bushing on each end or if long enough chase nipples. Thanks! How far can the nipple protrude in any box? Perfect size with bushing for a nipple is around 3 and 1/2 inches in my situation. also is it okay to drill a hole in a box for your location you need if the knockouts don’t align with what is needed. Read commercial boxes many don’t come with knockouts cause of unique needs and they are just punched out where needed. Edited March 25, 2021 by BOHICA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Crappie Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 4 minutes ago, BOHICA said: Thanks! How far can the nipple protrude in any box? Perfect size with bushing for a nipple is around 3 and 1/2 inches in my situation. also is it okay to drill a hole in a box for your location you need if the knockouts don’t align with what is needed. Read commercial boxes many don’t come with knockouts cause of unique needs snd they are just punched out where needed. Yep, make the KO's where you need them and just use the shortest nipple you can. 4" nipple should be fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member BOHICA Posted March 25, 2021 Author Gold Member Share Posted March 25, 2021 1 minute ago, Big Crappie said: Yep, make the KO's where you need them and just use the shortest nipple you can. 4" nipple should be fine. Your awesome! Thanks!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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