favoritos

I thought the brake rotor was supposed to have a little wiggle?  My understanding is that allows for a driveshaft that might not run true.

Whatever the reason, I think I've always had loose fitting rotors.  The clip doesn't clamp them in place.

She sounds like a guest on Springer when she's rattling.  I can't imagine how that helps.

23 minutes ago, Not greg b said:

I have a custom vent now in my garbage truck that draws in more air. It works like the hood vents on an old muscle car to draw more air in. They are back to building them like they use to. 

That looks amazingly familiar.  At least your bumper rivets are still holding.

Steep ramps are a bear on belts...  Belts are cold, clutches are cold.  Carbides are sharp.

I keep an old belt around for ramp loading.

2 hours ago, Crnr2Crnr said:

apparently the average size Yamaha riders need a longer flap as well...

 

 

I have a brand new sno X flap and all the hardware sitting here and ready to go.  I picked up the parts with the intent of running a longer flap on a Procross just for giggles. 

I'd have to fab up mounts to put one on a Catalyst.  The stock mounting setup is two holes on the plane of the tunnel and those goofy tabs riveted to the bumper. 

The stock flap works, but it's flimsy.  If you are in sticky snow the stock flaps carry a lot of weight with the design of those ribs on the last section.  Riders will get tired of replacing flaps and just cut off that portion.   

I had one pop off running mogul slush piles going through the Houghton stretch.  Bud said he could see the thing flopping up and down until it finally broke loose.  Said it looked like slush bombs were kicking it out.  The final pop came on a road crossing with a big ol plow berm on the other side.  The flap hit on road hard, flipped up and popped.  Probably got lucky it happened right in that area.  I had a torx driver for the two tunnel screws in my kit but I don't carry a rivet gun.  I rode that flapless overheating bugger to the dealer and borrowed their tool.

I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of riders will tear off stock flaps with a simple reverse into any kind of snow.  I saw mine start rolling under the track just backing down the ramp first time I unloaded.  Good thing I was watching close and didn't do a tear off.  Would have been just stupid to go back to the dealer for a new flap with that story.

How many miles on the sled?

"Zero, It's only been in reverse for fifteen feet.  You guys loaded it with your forklift."

The sno X flap might not be a bad idea.

17 minutes ago, racinfarmer said:

Could it be the trails got chewed up as the day went on and allowed more snow to be thrown around as you rode?

I've seen that happen just by switching lead in smooth set up snow.  That's just one sled chewing up the hard pack.

@Crnr2Crnr, Funny you mention the DIY version.  I've made those for years because I got tired of the customized stock version.

I noticed that I was collecting chunks on my back in the corners with the Catalyst sleds.  It took a few miles to remember that it's been awhile since I've had a sled without flares.

It's not a big deal, but I often have my jacket loose.  Those snow buggers get chilly when they land in the collar.

I noticed the part numbers for the Catalyst flares and hoped to see how they were shaped.  I still haven't seen anything.

I've still got a sheet of polycarb stuff sitting around.  If I run out of crap to do it might be worth mocking up something.

1 hour ago, racinfarmer said:

I always like riding my ZR's on days where you are "No way is this thing going to run warm today" and you are constantly flashing that light.

Then the days where you are like "No way this pig is going to stay cool" and it runs 98-106 all day long.

Real head scratcher, because my 2012 to 2014's never ran like that with the old Zuki crab motor.  

I think they run right on the edge of cooling capacity.  I've had a few good runners that always ran hot temps right next to one that did not.  The good runners also used less fuel on each stop.  Basically fast and lean also meant hot temps.

Those zuke motors needed big gas and oil lines but they ran cool temps.

1 hour ago, Not greg b said:

Mine never triggered any kind of warning running on pavement. My Polaris that was ran with it didn’t over heat either. My procross would have over heated big time in those conditions 

The only thing I saw on the Catalyst was the self induced NS1 low threshold warning.  I was on the RXC most miles and K, aka. Big guy was on a 137 ATAC.  He mentioned that his was flashing during a stretch of RR grade rockpiles.  I didn't think much at the time, but now that I've read a few pages of the manual, I guess that one actually was running high temps.  I'm sure it was an air bubble based on the early coolant service.

I hope the big motor has cooling that works like these 600 sleds.  We rode in a lot of junk and the cooling was enough except for the rockpile run.  To be honest, I was pretty impressed.  Riding is more fun when I can take that crap off the list.

I've never had a sport gauge.  Does it do a tiered warning system? 

Ahh, never mind.  I actually went and looked at an owners manual.   It looks like both sport and deluxe give flash warnings at 176 and stay constant when they start dumping fuel at 185 temp.

I'll be damned .  I learned something today. 

Now I know why the stock gauges don't flash very often.  To be honest it's a bear to read those things and I hardly know the exact readings until I stop. I've never been a fan of the two side deluxe gauge.  They are hard to read and harder yet when things vibrate around.  I won't miss that blurry bugger.

I use the NS1 setup most of the time and just get by when I ride the sleds with stock gauge.  I usually set the NS1 early temp warning to start flashing in the mid 150 range.  Things were easier with that feature.  If I was concerned with early warm temps, I could swap screens and make temp reading easier to see. 

I don't know much about the new gauge.  It would be nice if the G8 has some ability to configure the layout and adjust parameters. 

ZR ski shocks are 1" shorter on Catalyst. 

The AC5 are spec'd to the Catalyst and any old sled they would fit.  The Catalyst skids are amazingly similar to the Procross.

46 minutes ago, Palu49 said:

Our 18 ctecs were the best running 800s any of us owned and only one of them ever caught on fire.

Still have one.  It does run.  Got rid of 19, 20, 21, and probably one of the 22 sleds this spring.  The stock 18 is the one to beat and those have not done the job.  The 22 sleds were close until the clutches started pooping parts into the scrap bin.

4 hours ago, Not greg b said:

They cleaned up pretty good. Could be better but I was too lazy. 

Looks like a groove on the fixed sheave right where top of the belt sits when it stops shifting.  I hope I'm wrong.

On 2/18/2024 at 6:26 PM, Palu49 said:

@ZR6000RR 

What's the story?

Looks like a 2S with the heavier ring.  I would have thought those would be better on harmonics vs. the ring gear.

Vespel is a good 1/8" wider and a hair taller profile.

They worked better on new Procross sleds if you swapped out the smaller plastic wheels for the slightly taller older version.  The rail fit seemed dang close to stock.

I have a set of Tiger slides that I have not installed yet.  Without exact measurements, they are close to stock profile.  They come with extra holes drilled for the Alpha rails but I'd be cutting that section away for shorter rails.

@joe_zrt , pretty much summed up the other details.

Odd deal with the weights.

My scale isn't super fancy and I just do zero reset vs. calibration.  It's a good tool to compare but I wonder. . . ?  I've never seen a set over spec.  I just weighed the 64g set and two were exactly the same 63.84. The last one was 63.64.

60g set ranged 59.20 - 59.74.

I have a couple 66g sets with weights ranging 65.51 - 65.82.  Those have a nice tight grouping.

Scale calibration can obviously vary.  They should still give good comparison numbers from the same scale.

Those smooth sheets are dang slippery with about two flakes of snow.  I've had a couple trailers that came with a strip in the middle of the ramp doors.  Seems like someone always forgot and landed on their tuchus.

Best thing for that is letting one of the kids try out a brand new set of studs on the ramp.  A couple of nice spin sessions roughs up that stuff in no time.

3 hours ago, krom said:

That is the stock spring from a catalyst M 600

Yepper.  Dealer has the clutch on hand with spring included, but they don't stock the spring?

32 minutes ago, Palu49 said:

@favoritos I don’t see a lot of good coming out of that stock helix but I think a 50-52/44 would work well in its place. I bet that would be a hot ticket with the 64 gram weights. I still haven’t found a primary spring I love and nobody really lists their adapt springs online yet. I’d like to try about 85 initial with the same finish in the primary 

I found a Cat spring part number 1646-005 , listed as a 85/255 rate.

Had to order it non refundable.  It doesn't look like a normal stock item.

BTW, our little 65/255 spring is not available.  I'm a little curious to see what is replacing the thing.

8 minutes ago, Palu49 said:

66s and the the 48s 64s and 62s will be here tomorrow

I wasn't too clear.  I wondered about the secondary.  Wasn't sure if you had swapped again?

So, just to be clear this time.  Are you running stock spring with the 48S or is that with the 155-220?

7 minutes ago, jonlafon1 said:

So your saying the weight is at least 66 grams with the bushing?

The ADAPT weight numbers for reference are 1 gram over the number stamped on them.

It's a goofy way of doing the numbers, but that's what they use. Haven't weighed the bushings, but  I've weighed quite a few with bushings and the actual weight is just under the rated number.  I.E. 66 gram reference number actually weighs 65.70 grams.

Here are a couple sets of 116-65, (66g) weights with bushings.  I wrote the decimal point over 65 on each.

Just now, jonlafon1 said:

picture looks to be 65 grams

Add the weight of bushing.  It's a 66 in the pic.

Dangit

45 minutes ago, Palu49 said:

Much closer to full shift on both clutches. 
 

Check your TCL bolts on the engine side, one of mine was loose that wasn’t when I had the clutch off 90 miles ago.

 

Is that still running 66g with stock secondary?

I found one bolt loose on the jackshaft end of the TCL. 

That happened after initial break in miles.  I guess it's worth checking behind the primary too.

9 minutes ago, mnstang said:

If you're dealing with heavy weights and trying to keep the backshift, I've found you actually want more rate in the primary spring.  By rate I mean the difference between initial and finish numbers.. that is more important to me for backshift than either number by itself.  Plot the two numbers on a graph and look at the angle of the line will dictate alot.  I think a lot of diy tuners don't understand that.  The initial really just relates to engagement and finish doesn't really affect shift rpm much at all.  Heavy weights can be good for drag racing and speed running but I don't like them for a trail sled corner to corner.

I'm in agreement with the concept.

Clutching is a complicated subject.  I'm terrible at just plopping words on a screen to describe.

The idea you mention is relevant to the current stock setup. 

The 800 sleds are shipped with 85/225 rate springs against the same secondary we have in the Catalyst.  The primary rate is 65/255 on these little 600 motors.  The stock setup works well for low and midrange speeds.  It's pretty strong out of the box unless you like clicking over 80 mph.  I'm guessing it will scare a stock 800 for quite a stretch. The stock 800 will keep pulling but it isn't much of a beast past the 600 Catalyst speeds. 

We've kinda ruled out the secondary as the variable with both sleds using the exact same helix and spring.  Who knows, it may be the limiting factor on both.

The stock 600 Catalyst setup works well for typical trail riding.  It's pretty close but that doesn't mean we can't find more.  The 80 wall is frustrating because it just gives up.  We're not running out of gearing or rpm, it just quits pulling. (Unless you hit miracle horsepower ice.)