Tomas.

The rollers seem to move free. Not seeing any flat spots. Spring is not broke. Helix seems smooth 

3 minutes ago, f7ben said:

Also if them little torx bolts dont come out very well they should be replaced. They have a tendency to break after they have been abused 

Ya I was shopping around for all the things I could possibly need to replace and epi sells a "rebuild" kit that comes with rollers, washers, c clips, and screws

2 minutes ago, f7ben said:

You'll need a pencil tip torch dude......or even a soldering iron would work

Ya. I am finding this out. I guess tomorrow it is

As I say that,I had an ah-ha moment. We are back in business lol

Well I got my heat problem solved. Propane tank heater. Unfortunately I broke another torx. Those stupid hollow ones for tamper proof fasteners. I know I have one solid one around but cannot find it anywhere

3 minutes ago, HSR said:

What's your clutch set up and gearing?

As far as I know stock clutching bit the gearing is a 21/40

9 minutes ago, Zambroski said:

 

I have the lighter going. 

I live a bit out of town. It is a bit of a time killer to drive in. I will be buying a torch after work tomorrow lol

6 minutes ago, HSR said:

Don't lay the clutch flat. Put it on its edge with the screws facing away and the deflection screw at your belly. use a torx socket on a ratchet and loosen the screw at 3 oclock if looking at helix with the handle at 9 0'clock. Make any sense????

Yup, makes sense. No luck. Someone has been in here before. So maybe they used red loctite or something. Before I start stripping screws. I am going to take it to work tomorrow where I have a torch and things. 

I was just hoping to get it apart tonight to see if anything vwas broken that could be causing my low top speed issue.

On a side note. When I put the belt removal tool in tonight, I could only get it in barely enough to pull the belt off with out it being too hard to turn in anymore. Is that an issue?

4 minutes ago, Angry ginger said:

you don't have a mapp/propane torch for plumbing? 

I have not needed to buy one yet. All the plumbing jobs I have done I used shark bite fittings.

6 minutes ago, HSR said:

You can remove the helix with any special tools but will need a clutch compression tool to remove the spring. make sure you have the correct torx for the helix screws,,heat them slightly to loosen the loctite.The secondary springs are minimum 100lbs+ so don't try it by hand.

Thank you. The torx are proving difficult. I already broke one torx and I have one left. Unfortunately I do not have heat. So l am a little stuck lol

Before I make any bad decisions, does anyone know how to tear apart a team secondary clutch for a 2008 Polaris IQ? Do I need special tools? I can't find hardly any information or vids online

8 minutes ago, BOHICA said:

What network is it on?

Amazon Prime video. Free if you have an Amazon Prime account. If not, the easiest way to see it for free is to wait till the whole season is out (as they put one episode out a week unless it is a two part special), and get 30 days free trial and binge watch it lol.

I find their new show a little more "down to earth" if that is even the right way to explain it compared to the flat out over scripted Top Gear became in the last 3ish seasons. Although I find both shows extremely enjoyable.

Here is a doo 850 that the guy had a turbo put on it. Apparently makes 240 hp. The guy did a clutch kit on it as well. I guess the belt let go. The belt even grabbed the suspension tool and twisted it up.

They all break. I have a buddy who works in a doo dealership in Ontario as a mechanic. He sent me this photo of a stock doo 850

3 minutes ago, AKIQPilot said:

You have a clutch problem.  One of them isn't shifting out.  Look for flat rollers on the primary.  Take the secondary apart and look inside for damaged rollers, a seized shaft bushing or a damaged helix.  

I was wondering if it was clutches some how. Sounds like something I shouldn't be riding until I get the clutches figured out?

Well I had my ego bruised a little last weekend and I am hoping someone might have an idea of what happened.

So I had a buddy visiting and he was using my 07 Arctic Cat 600 CFR with a 136" 1/4" ripsaw and I was on my 08 Polaris d7 switchback with a 144" 2" paddle track. We were racing in a little lake that had about 6" of crusty up top and sugar underneath with some packed paths from sleds.

We take off. I get the holeshot by a good stretch. Then that CFR starts reeling me in. I look at the gauge and I am screaming 8250 rpms but my sled will not climb above 62 mph. My buddy passes me on the 600.

So I start a GPS speed app on my phone and make another pass on the lake. 61 mph. This is the third IQ I have owned.

Wtf. I know the gearing was changed but the previous owner gave me a bunch of paperwork and it shows the new gears he put in, which I have confirmed, and my top speed according to the chart should be 93 mph. I have owned a 07 600 and a 2010 d6 switchback and both of them were 100 mph on the dream-o-meter.

The engine is reving out. New belt this year. It seems decent down on the bottom. Lots of low end grunt. Not hesitations. Anyone have a clue why it is such a turd up top?

Just now, DAVE said:

If hes in the patch....thats not much.

You have to take in the down time for break ups and such.

This is at a shop basically in Edmonton. Home every night. 

A fairly young welder (early 30's) I work with was complaining that it sucks to live pay cheque to pay cheque. He said $5000 take home a month isn't enough.....

After a fuck around getting the wires for the Arctic cat from Arctic Cat dealers to put on a heated helmet cord, I have it all installed. I am getting 14.5ish DC volts at the helmet. Does that seem right? Also I am running a 15 amp fuse. Is that to high? 

Apparently this is comfortable......

First time at the dog park. Did really well.