Tomas.

19 minutes ago, Zambroski said:

Looks like that girl has worked out well.

I wish she wasn't such a shit head. Seems to have gotten worse with the new dog.

Ran out of the yard on me today. Only went a couple of doors down. Of course the puppy was right behind her. Wouldn't let me get close. Fucked off back to our yard when I did get close.

Has gotten extremely nervous. I am wondering if it is because when we scold the puppy she thinks we mean her as well.

Doesn't/won't sit with us anymore. Always in a back room or something. She starts to shake when she gets really nervous. Which is usually caused by trying to have her close to where we are sitting lol.

Listens like a brick wall. Or she will start to do what you say, gets half way through and says fuck that, and goes back to where ever she was hiding.

The puppy isn't nervous but always wants to be close to her. So we don't see much of him unless we block off sections of the house to keep him near us. He listens a little better than the other one but not much. When it is just you and the puppy outside, he has mediocre recall. When it is the older dog or both of them, recall doesn't exist. She is always scared and runs away and he follows. Very aggravating lol.

Surveying the yard

https://www.buzzfeed.com/ikrd/optical-illusion-tells-you-how-stressed-you-are-fake

8 minutes ago, Rigid1 said:

What sled is this??

2008 Polaris 700 Dragon Switchback. Stretched to a 144" with 2" paddles running a 21t top gear and a 40t bottom.

Well it looks like I am heading into the primary. It made a difference but did not solve the problem. It now seems to dangle the skis a little bit when it has good traction.

I made a bunch of passes on a lake that had around 3 inches of fresh on hard pack. I was getting 65 mph consistently. One time when I used path I already went on, I hit 70 mph. Before the secondary service, my max mph on the gauge was 61 mph no matter what I did. 

Belt defection is good and still hitting 8100 rpm

Well I have the clutch back together.

I know it is pretty hard to fuck up but I am sweating a little lol. So I have 3 used delrin washers and reused the torx on the Helix. I put blue loctite on all the screws  and tighten them as much as I dare before I stripped them. They are $11 per screw and the dealers only have "1" in stock.

Epi sells a kit with rollers, roller washers, roller c clips, and those torx screws for the same price as the dealer wants for just the rollers. I think I may buy that when doing fall prep for next season along with 3 new delrin washers. 

Thank you everyone for your assistance. I know this probably didn't fit in the "not beginners lessons" but it was extremely nice and helpful to be able to ask people questions that knew what they were talking about.

I am working today, hopefully only a half day. When I am done I am going to throw this on the sled and see how she does. Will report back after that.

Thank you!

16 minutes ago, AKIQPilot said:

Roosting covered it all.  No lubrication on a trail/play sled secondary.  The wear to the washer and sheaves is normal for a Team secondary.  Rigid covered it on the derlins.  under the cup, inside the cup and on the top of the spring (under the spring retainer/roller assembly).  Where you were pointing with your finger is where the third derlin washer goes.  

This secondary should be as good as new after this service.  This may not cure all of your clutching issues.  It's hard to tell without being there and feeling how stiff things were when they came apart.  After you finish the secondary you need to give the primary a once over.  

Upon reassembly, when you get ready to compress the spring and retainer/roller assembly there are alignment splines that must match up.  They are super easy to see but not always easy to align as you compress everything in place.  Don't force the assembly together you could damage the splines.  Once I have the splines aligned and the spring compressed partially I will apply light pressure with the clutch tool trying to engage the splines.  IF they don't engage immediately I will give a light tap with a dead blow and try again to crank down on the clutch tool.  I usually get the splines aligned within a try or two.  

Reassembly is not difficult but without a tool to compress the roller assembly in place it's sometimes tricky to get the splines aligned.  

Thank you! I spotted the blind spline (I think it is called?). 

I picked up the "new" delrin washers. They are not new. Probably the ones I have just out of another clutch they did. They were $8 so I bought them anyways.

6 minutes ago, Roosting said:

no grease. Period. It just attracts belt dust and makes goo.

They are designed to be clean and dry.

Now if you were drag racing and servicing the clutches every round, maybe, but from what I've found dry is the only way to go.

I use Carb cleaner instead of brake clean. It seems to be more of a solvent than the brake clean.

Thank you. I just popped the rollers off and made sure the was no gunk on the shafts and inside the rollers. Put them back on dry.

Shaft and bushings polished with type A very fine Scotch Brite. Everything all cleaned up. 

Do I lubricate the shaft the rollers sit on?

25 minutes ago, Rigid1 said:

correct, sorry for the delay

It is all good. I won't have the washers till tonight. It won't be going back together until tomorrow 

13 minutes ago, Rigid1 said:

Back side of spring cup

?

17 minutes ago, AKIQPilot said:

Yea, that looks great.  Just make sure you get the shaft and bushings all cleaned up good.  

There will be two new washers and one used. 

Where do I put the third one?

Also it looks like by belt defection screw is doing some damage to the washer and sheave. Is that normal?

46 minutes ago, Jimmy Snacks said:

Props to Tomas for just diving into this shit without ever having done it before.

Thank you lol.

I am a 4th year millwright so I would be embarrassed to take it to a shop. I am a little gun shy as I don't like breaking shit. Especially when it is on my dime lmao.

Well the delrin washers are not a dealer item. I found a local small shop that had 2 loose ones. So I am going to take the better one of the two that came out of my clutch and use it with the two new ones.

I used some spray 9 and a brush. Maybe I will hit it with some brake clean to make sure there is no residue.

3 minutes ago, Rigid1 said:

I always just run the sled and hold a scotchbrite pad on the sheaves as they spin on the primary, (watch your fingers and loose clothing) I use 3m brake cleaner to clean the belt dust off the clutches.. Obviously You dont want to use anything on the sheaves that will leave an oily residue..

It is the get rid of this crap

1 minute ago, Rigid1 said:

scotchbrite pad, brass brush, emory cloth on the grungy spots

Ok. Is there any solvents I should stay away from the get rid of the belt material all over the sheaves?

42 minutes ago, AKIQPilot said:

Yes, the debris is from the rollers.  This is what a secondary clutch tool looks like.  It would be very easy to make one.  You need to take the secondary the rest of the way apart.  You need the derlin washer kit.  This may not be the problem with your clutches but you need to go ahead and finish this job so you know everything is correct.  Then move to the Primary and complete the tear down and inspection of it.  

Is the delrin washer kit a Polaris item?

What do I clean everything with? 

I have it apart the rest of the way. 

19 minutes ago, AKIQPilot said:

There was a lot of grit in the lower spring cup area in that one picture.  That all needs to be cleaned out.  You need to finish taking the secondary apart.  You will need a secondary disassembly tool to get the snap ring off and the spring apart.  You need to clean all that junk out from under and around the spring cum.  When you reassemble the spring you need to run 3 derlin washers.  One under the cup, one in the cup and one on the roller end under the spring.  

Once you finish disassembling the secondary you need to inspect the brass bushing in the moving sheave.  Look for any wear on the bushing and any wear on the shaft.  Also look for wear on the Helix bushing.

Everything in your pictures looks good except all the debris in 3rd and 4th picture you posted.  That is excessive and indicates some worn parts.  

Ya the debris looked like coating flake. To me from the rollers. 

I have since blown all the crap out of there. 

I work at a metal fabrication shop. I will see if there is any scrap lying around I can make a clutch pressure out of today.

3 minutes ago, Zambroski said:

I don't see anything that stands out other than it looks like it hasn't been serviced in some time.  Can you get a look at that spring?  What are the angles on that helix?

Maybe I missed it but, have you gone through the primary already?  

The spring looks new. I don't see any paint chipping. Still a lot of pressure on the spring. Helix is stock if that is was you mean by the angles.

Have not pulled the primary apart. The engine rpms are on point so I started with the secondary.

Does anyone see anything that would be cause for concern? I have never had a clutch apart before.

I noticed that these two X's don't line up. Is that normal?