Jump to content

PEX clamped vs expansion fittings


Recommended Posts

I started using expansion style fittings over the clamped fitting for the van conversion. I know that type A tubing is required and that’s what I used. It’s a lot easier than the clamped version. I’ve had some guys tell me the clamped are better and expansion are prone to cranking. Anyone have experience with the two? Lots of different opinions on this. 

Edited by spin_dry
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got both.

The sharkbite type don't leak and are easy to remove and reinstall.

The clamp, albeit 1",  have obvious signs of weeping and require a dremel to remove, and pulling the pipe needs heat.

High end tool and clamps, there are cheap versions. You'd rip the pipe before the connection let go.

Clamp can be a challenge in tight spots.

Cost wise there is no comparison.,

Edited by Voodoo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Voodoo said:

I've got both.

The sharkbite type don't leak and are easy to remove and reinstall.

The clamp, albeit 1",  have obvious signs of weeping and require a dremel to remove, and pulling the pipe needs heat.

High end tool and clamps, there are cheap versions. You'd rip the pipe before the connection let go.

Clamp can be a challenge in tight spots.

Cost wise there is no comparison.,

I’m using the expansion type using a Milwaukee tool. 
 

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, SkisNH said:

Our plumber uses expansion, he feels it's a more secure joint especially in a cold environment where frozen pipes are a concern. 

Fucking opinions on this are all over the map. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just did a job using the expansion type with Milwaukee tool, that’s the way to go. In a 80 bed hospital, cold& hot going to a header in each room, then branching off to fixtures , I think I can count on 1 hand how many leaks we had, plus we use them on snow melt headers without any problems, one benifit is, if the joint does leak, I hit it with a map igniter torch a little to warm it up without scorching it, and it fixes it, not all the time but I’ve had good luck doing it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Turbo Kitty said:

I just did a job using the expansion type with Milwaukee tool, that’s the way to go. In a 80 bed hospital, cold& hot going to a header in each room, then branching off to fixtures , I think I can count on 1 hand how many leaks we had, plus we use them on snow melt headers without any problems, one benifit is, if the joint does leak, I hit it with a map igniter torch a little to warm it up without scorching it, and it fixes it, not all the time but I’ve had good luck doing it. 

Interesting with the heat. A heat gun would probably work too. That’s good to know. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/9/2022 at 6:12 PM, Jerry 976 said:

 

Good video. Smart guy.

Never thought about freezing problems in Texas.

A minor freeze will survive it seems, if you use the right stuff.

in Ontario, if pipes freeze you’re likely fucked.

My infloor shop system in unpressurized, water only. No glycol.

Double redundancy though for the heat. Double redundancy for the circulation.

Natural gas, wood boiler and finally electric if needed for the heat.

Primary circ pump for the entire system. 2 secondary pumps to increase flow. Manually controlled valve if the primary pump fails.
Any pump can fail and it still heats, albeit not as much. It would never freeze.

Still, I keep two spare pumps, couple relays on the shelf. If the floor heat froze I’m screwed.

I thought about electric solenoid valves and a controller , but this setup can run on about 300 watts reliably, in case of a longer term power outage and it’s butt simple.

I could run without grid power hydro, without natural gas,  for almost any length of time.

I’ve got some wifi sensors in the mix. From my phone I can see the temperature of the air in the office, air in the shop, water temperature in the heating system, turn the gas boiler off and on, maximize the burning of wood in the boiler.

Use the same tech to monitor customers hot tubs in the field, cottages and ski chalets.
It’s saved many.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/9/2022 at 5:12 PM, Jerry 976 said:

 

Those are among the reasons I’ve gone with expansion joints in the van conversions. The pipe is all 1/2” due to the confined spaces. Clamped joints restrict the flow flow to a noticeable amount. Add in the multitude of bends and twists and it begins flows like Analer with a bad prostate. 

Edited by spin_dry
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Trying to pay the bills, lol



×
×
  • Create New...