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What are you looking at for 2023


Doug

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Going thru every nut, bolt, bearing, shock, spring, stud, carbide, and bogie wheel on my new to me 2016 Pro S Switchback 600. Might even update it with an Artic FX wrap.

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  • 1 month later...

Picked up my clutch kit, jack and drive shaft bearings, fuel tank filter and A-arm bushings from Northstar Performance Thursday. Look what I found when installing the A-Arm bushings yesterday! Ya's never have noticed it without removing or turning sled on it's side and looking for it!

New one ordered.

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4 hours ago, Liggett said:

And replacing this over-dealer lubricated bearing.

IMG_20220504_161927759.jpg

That could lead into a couple different options on amount of grease.  I lube mine with an Amsoil water resistant grease that has more grease than that and never had a failure.  Pull the seal clean and grease it about every 1000 miles.

The below pic is from my 2022 XCR before I ever rode it.  It had a lot more grease than my 2021 had.

download.jpeg

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Interesting. The Northstar greasable bearing I'm going to use has steel seals with grease holes in the outboard race to allow the grease from the grease nippled cup to get to the bearing. I've got the same one on the driveshaft of my 2014. I'll post a picture.

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2 hours ago, Mag6240 said:

Trying this on two sleds this year.  Jackshaft bearing deflector modified to fit the driveshaft.

 

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Nice plan that should help to keep the water out.

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3 hours ago, Doug said:

Nice plan that should help to keep the water out.

Well it works on the jackshaft in the tunnel, why wouldn’t it work on the driveshaft??  Hopefully I have an “average” year and will see what that bearing looks like after a couple thousand miles mid-season.

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16 minutes ago, Mag6240 said:

Well it works on the jackshaft in the tunnel, why wouldn’t it work on the driveshaft??  Hopefully I have an “average” year and will see what that bearing looks like after a couple thousand miles mid-season.

I clean my clutches every 700 to 1000 miles and grease the bearing at the same time.  The older sleds use to have a decal to grease the bearing every 1000 miles.  Poor maintenance has wrecked more than on ride in our group

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13 minutes ago, Doug said:

I clean my clutches every 700 to 1000 miles and grease the bearing at the same time.  The older sleds use to have a decal to grease the bearing every 1000 miles.  Poor maintenance has wrecked more than on ride in our group

I’ve found 2000-2500 is a pretty safe number depending on trip plans - clutches get cleaned and new weight bushings at that mileage as well.  

Edited by Mag6240
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1 hour ago, Mag6240 said:

Well it works on the jackshaft in the tunnel, why wouldn’t it work on the driveshaft??  Hopefully I have an “average” year and will see what that bearing looks like after a couple thousand miles mid-season.

At the very least, that deflector could help keep ice from destroying the seal. I wonder why they don't fit guards like that at the factory at the ends of BOTH shafts since ice has been known to take out chaincase seals.

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Here's the pictures I promised of the driveshaft bearing that's going in my 2016 SB Pro S. 

You'll notice that it has a steel seal on the inside and no seal on the cup (outer) side. Once installed, you need to fill the cavity with grease until you can feel grease being pushed out of the inside steel seal. After that, a couple pumps a year.

Contact Northstar Performance in Conway, NH if interested.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Old bearings are off and new jackshaft bearing pressed on. Need to wait for a new driveshaft inner bearing mount thanks to ham-fisting the old one. Rebuilt FTS installed with new dual-rate spring; infinite easy-adjustable limiter strap installed. All thanks to my "younger" and more flexible bud that came 35 miles one-way to give me a hand today. I'll get the chaincase buttoned up and filled tomorrow and start on power-valve R&R.

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1 hour ago, Liggett said:

Old bearings are off and new jackshaft bearing pressed on. Need to wait for a new driveshaft inner bearing mount thanks to ham-fisting the old one. Rebuilt FTS installed with new dual-rate spring; infinite easy-adjustable limiter strap installed. All thanks to my "younger" and more flexible bud that came 35 miles one-way to give me a hand today. I'll get the chaincase buttoned up and filled tomorrow and start on power-valve R&R.

Also shim the skis if they have not been already.  Help with darting and the front of the carbides from prematurely wearing.

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54 minutes ago, Liggett said:

Yep, planning on it. The PO did not have them shimmed.

Here's a print of the shim if you don't have one.  I make them from .25 plastic.

There's also some guys that cut off the end of a slide and use them but I've seen where they start to collapse and lose the effect of shimming the skis

Ski-shim.jpg

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Thank you. I ordered some from Bergstrom but I'll compare them to your measurements.

I'm supposed to get the spindles back from powder coat tomorrow.

Edited by Liggett
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