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Is The ProCross Chassis Prone to Overheat?


jdels

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I always feel guilty riding ahead of someone when my scratchers are down, because I know how much crap they throw everywhere.  
 

Those tunnel flares might be an option for me during summer maintenance this year, we’ll see.  Not sure how much they’d help on the longer tunnel, if it’s the same part# for the shorter tunnel.

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46 minutes ago, p51mstg said:

I always feel guilty riding ahead of someone when my scratchers are down, because I know how much crap they throw everywhere.  
 

Those tunnel flares might be an option for me during summer maintenance this year, we’ll see.  Not sure how much they’d help on the longer tunnel, if it’s the same part# for the shorter tunnel.

those coat hangars kick up so much crap that chunks of it often hits me in the back of the helmet.  brother claims it looks like a snow tornado behind me.  :)

 

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1 hour ago, p51mstg said:

I always feel guilty riding ahead of someone when my scratchers are down, because I know how much crap they throw everywhere.  
 

Those tunnel flares might be an option for me during summer maintenance this year, we’ll see.  Not sure how much they’d help on the longer tunnel, if it’s the same part# for the shorter tunnel.

They work great on the 129 and 137. No issues. No more chunks.

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3 hours ago, Crnr2Crnr said:

couple things which were problems... he purchased and mounted the cable scratchers himself (without experience) and he mounted them too high on the rail.  basically, they're curb feelers if you're old enough to know what those were.  yesterday in good snow conditions I ran the 720 which I almost always have the scratchers down on (because I refuse to jeopardize that engine) and was running around 100 degrees consistently.  brothers RXC was running in the 120-130 range.  as a test, on a section I knew there was good snow I lifted the scratchers on the 720 and was running in the low 130's within a couple miles, and the scratchers went right back down.   so... on his RXC I'm removing the curb feelers and installing either wire Cat scratchers which I know work very well or the Doo wire scratchers.  if we use the Cat one's he's just going to always remember not to back up with them deployed, or the Doo ones can be used in reverse.

the Cat coat hangers throw up a ton of snow and ice. ;)

 

           

 

IMG_20230210_143934733.jpg

Yeah, I think the cat scratcher's work the best.  If you just put them down once you're on the trail, you shouldn't even need to use reverse for it to be an issue.  

I have a set of new cat scratchers if you're looking to buy.

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3 hours ago, mnstang said:

Yeah, I think the cat scratcher's work the best.  If you just put them down once you're on the trail, you shouldn't even need to use reverse for it to be an issue.  

I have a set of new cat scratchers if you're looking to buy.

thanks, but I already have three sets sitting in my 'inventory'  :)

it's his sled, if he wants to be able to back up or not worry I'll put on whatever he wants, if it's my decision I'll take simplicity and maximum effectiveness.

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Been through the topic with a number of these sleds.

One disclaimer is that some are just plain worse.  Doesn't seem to matter the year.  I have noticed that the mapping varies and the good runners using a bit less gas and oil also heat up faster most of the time.

Not a fan of scratchers, but they do throw snow.  I use the qualipiece mounting system and between the lines idler wheel hanger.  The work ok and they'll keep you riding.  The coat hangers work better.  I like the qualipiece mount because I can put the bracket on the rails and mount the scratcher as needed during a trip.  Until I need the scratchers, I just throw a bolt with a rubber washer through the big hole.  When I know the trip is going suck hot balls, I put at least one scratcher into the mount.

I've also found some other tricks to get by most of the time.  Club grooming is a big factor.  I've seen many occasions on the same trail where temps change dramatically when you hit the next club.  My advice is to ride through that section and see how the next club section cools.  Don't lollygag through the hot sections.  The track needs to move snow. It also helps to be in the powervalves a little to get the gas in there.  Wide open does create more heat, so it doesn't work for long.  Getting that flap down low helps through the bad sections.  Sit way back on the seat and drag the flap, or put the fat ass on the hot sled.  Put the hot runner in the back of the pack.  It's surprising how much a couple sleds can loosen snow on the trail for cooling.

Tunnel flares help a little bit.  The stock flares are a one size fits all and don't go back to the flap on 137 sleds.  I make my own flares out of 1/8" polycarbonate.  It's way cheaper than stock flares and I can make them fit each sled.

PXL_20210110_203542503.thumb.jpg.50ec544f6fecca2affd26bc59cca02c6.jpg

I've dealt with these things and the quirky temps for awhile.  The difference between two exact same sleds is surprisingly dramatic.  Some heat up faster in the morning  Some run higher temps on the trail all day long.  Some have real problems and go straight to hot when temps start climbing.  I've found some bad thermostats, had a waterpump go kaput and other issues.  But, in the end, some just run hot.   It's become an inside joke about the "hot" sleds. 

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Taperk makes a good point, there's a difference between running hot and over-heating.  Back in the day we all rode around in ignorant bliss with no absolute numerical indicator.  Flashing meant find loose snow and solid meant meltdown imminent haha.

Now I find myself obsessively watching temps, when at the end of the day, it's never really mattered and actually detracted from my ride. All this and I've still never run scratchers. 

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3 hours ago, Premium said:

Taperk makes a good point, there's a difference between running hot and over-heating.  Back in the day we all rode around in ignorant bliss with no absolute numerical indicator.  Flashing meant find loose snow and solid meant meltdown imminent haha.

Now I find myself obsessively watching temps, when at the end of the day, it's never really mattered and actually detracted from my ride. All this and I've still never run scratchers. 

I haven't either.  I look at the gauge a little to start the ride and once it's established I'm good I try to forget about it.  I hate the thought of having some stupid scratchers mounted to my sled 

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13 minutes ago, racinfarmer said:

Grrr, I hate drilling rails.

At least it is a clean look.

I hear ya, it's been awhile but I think it's a 3/8 hole, factory hardware is 1/4" or so. Atleast on the rr, your rxc might have beefier bolts. I'm a big guy and ride pretty hard still and didn't have any cracking issues from the bigger holes. 

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13 minutes ago, racinfarmer said:

Grrr, I hate drilling rails.

At least it is a clean look.

I hear ya, it's been awhile but I think it's a 3/8 hole, factory hardware is 1/4" or so. Atleast on the rr, your rxc might have beefier bolts. I'm a big guy and ride pretty hard still and didn't have any cracking issues from the bigger holes. 

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25 minutes ago, Cat45 said:

I hear ya, it's been awhile but I think it's a 3/8 hole, factory hardware is 1/4" or so. Atleast on the rr, your rxc might have beefier bolts. I'm a big guy and ride pretty hard still and didn't have any cracking issues from the bigger holes. 

You are not going to crack a rail. I have done it to 5 sleds. Zero issues!

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On 2/9/2023 at 10:08 PM, ZR6000RR said:

No. Just use your brain. The heating is not hard to figure out.

Go ride tonight.  You will change your tune.

3 hours ago, ZR6000RR said:

Here is my setup. Had to remove the inner idlers to install, then put them back on. Clean look and the hook protects the idler wheel

20230103_185304.jpg

You obviously don't ride much if they are mounted like that.

47 minutes ago, ZR6000RR said:

You are not going to crack a rail. I have done it to 5 sleds. Zero issues!

You ride like a grandma.

My sled runs the hottest of all the Poos I ride with but it is also cooler than my buddies procross.

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On 2/11/2023 at 3:44 PM, favoritos said:

Been through the topic with a number of these sleds.

One disclaimer is that some are just plain worse.  Doesn't seem to matter the year.  I have noticed that the mapping varies and the good runners using a bit less gas and oil also heat up faster most of the time.

Not a fan of scratchers, but they do throw snow.  I use the qualipiece mounting system and between the lines idler wheel hanger.  The work ok and they'll keep you riding.  The coat hangers work better.  I like the qualipiece mount because I can put the bracket on the rails and mount the scratcher as needed during a trip.  Until I need the scratchers, I just throw a bolt with a rubber washer through the big hole.  When I know the trip is going suck hot balls, I put at least one scratcher into the mount.

I've also found some other tricks to get by most of the time.  Club grooming is a big factor.  I've seen many occasions on the same trail where temps change dramatically when you hit the next club.  My advice is to ride through that section and see how the next club section cools.  Don't lollygag through the hot sections.  The track needs to move snow. It also helps to be in the powervalves a little to get the gas in there.  Wide open does create more heat, so it doesn't work for long.  Getting that flap down low helps through the bad sections.  Sit way back on the seat and drag the flap, or put the fat ass on the hot sled.  Put the hot runner in the back of the pack.  It's surprising how much a couple sleds can loosen snow on the trail for cooling.

Tunnel flares help a little bit.  The stock flares are a one size fits all and don't go back to the flap on 137 sleds.  I make my own flares out of 1/8" polycarbonate.  It's way cheaper than stock flares and I can make them fit each sled.

PXL_20210110_203542503.thumb.jpg.50ec544f6fecca2affd26bc59cca02c6.jpg

I've dealt with these things and the quirky temps for awhile.  The difference between two exact same sleds is surprisingly dramatic.  Some heat up faster in the morning  Some run higher temps on the trail all day long.  Some have real problems and go straight to hot when temps start climbing.  I've found some bad thermostats, had a waterpump go kaput and other issues.  But, in the end, some just run hot.   It's become an inside joke about the "hot" sleds. 

Those look good.  Brother just ordered the Cat ones and had me install them.  BRP scratchers coming next.

IMG_20230215_155621680.jpg

IMG_20230215_155616456.jpg

IMG_20230215_161224658.jpg

Edited by Crnr2Crnr
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16 hours ago, p51mstg said:

Those look good!  I wonder how much they'd help the Riot - might have to try them next year.

IDK TBH, but we're going to give it a shot with some scratchers and we logged a bunch of temps in different conditions to compare ... next season?  :dunno:

 

from what I saw, and in my opinion in stock form it's biggest variable kept coming down to the height of the snow flap, as his scratchers weren't doing anything because of the height he mounted them.  good intentions, improper execution.  ;)

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/11/2023 at 9:35 PM, racinfarmer said:

Grrr, I hate drilling rails.

At least it is a clean look.

I love drilling holes on a brand new $20k snowmobile just so I can ride it!

On 2/27/2023 at 9:45 PM, racinfarmer said:

Found one of my flap extensions back.  Might throw it back on a sled.

20230219_115547[1].jpg

Those are a real PITA to install.  The two rivets by the tail light can't be installed without removing the tail light.  So what's that, 8 rivets drilled and replaced to install a snowflap?  My flap ended up like yours with the holes almost pulled through.  I replaced the rivets with stainless steel screws.

I used to run my Procross with the Duraflex scratchers down a lot.  This year on my Lynx I've only run the Doo spring style scratchers down for a few miles.  The sled design and setup (sag) makes a huge difference in cooling.

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3 hours ago, teamgreen02 said:

I love drilling holes on a brand new $20k snowmobile just so I can ride it!

Those are a real PITA to install.  The two rivets by the tail light can't be installed without removing the tail light.  So what's that, 8 rivets drilled and replaced to install a snowflap?  My flap ended up like yours with the holes almost pulled through.  I replaced the rivets with stainless steel screws.

I used to run my Procross with the Duraflex scratchers down a lot.  This year on my Lynx I've only run the Doo spring style scratchers down for a few miles.  The sled design and setup (sag) makes a huge difference in cooling.

I normally install Rivnuts or replace with stainless fasteners.

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2 hours ago, racinfarmer said:

I normally install Rivnuts or replace with stainless fasteners.

yup, aa long as you have the install tool.

if not, as simple trip to Fleet Farm and dive into the stainless drawers

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Since it's already chewed up on the bottom from being backed over by the studs... I just sent my brother the part numbers to order the SX flap, reinforcement and straps to try next winter if we actually get snow to ride on.

  9_9

 

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