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2017 Chev Impala transmission fluid change?


irv

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9 minutes ago, ActionfigureJoe said:

There’s many transmissions with 200,000+ miles with the factory fluid that are working just fine. IMO I’d leave those alone. My old Sienna had over 300,000 miles. The fluid was changed every 50k from the beginning. In fact, the previous owner dumped the fluid at 1k miles and every 50k thereafter. I sold the van to a hotshot driver running parts to NoDak oil fields. Last I heard the van was approaching 400k and still humming along. 

Yeah, can't say I'd disagree with you there, but, if the rest of the vehicle is in really good shape (which is highly unlikely at that mileage) then I could understand someone, maybe, wanting to change it if they planned on keeping it for another 200K or wanted it to last as long as possible. 

Based on what Saya said and thinking about this further, I think I am definitely going to do my son's truck or have someone else do it? He has only had it now a couple months and most likely he will be keeping it a few or more years. 

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12 hours ago, SayatodaU.P.eh? said:

2019 was the last year of production for the Impala. 2018 and 2019 had the options available for most of the driver assistance systems (side blind zone alert, forward collision alert, lane departure warning and lane keep assist). Pretty sure those were only available on LTZ/Premier package cars though. 

It is a Premier ex-fleet vehicle.  

Some of the paint work I don't even want to know about.  91k, probably no trans flushes (to make it relavent to this topic).

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34 minutes ago, irv said:

Yeah, can't say I'd disagree with you there, but, if the rest of the vehicle is in really good shape (which is highly unlikely at that mileage) then I could understand someone, maybe, wanting to change it if they planned on keeping it for another 200K or wanted it to last as long as possible. 

Based on what Saya said and thinking about this further, I think I am definitely going to do my son's truck or have someone else do it? He has only had it now a couple months and most likely he will be keeping it a few or more years. 

At 137,000 miles I’d change it out. 

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16 hours ago, irv said:

I believe Saya is correct in saying it is an old wife's tale. Transmission fluid is a lube, it is not there to provide friction to the clutch packs. With most transmissions, especially the type in my son's truck that have internal filter(s) and a magnet(s), I honestly don't think the fluid would be so dirty, so full of grit that it would actually provide friction for the clutch packs to work properly? 

Maybe, just maybe, in a high mileage vehicle like the 200,000+ you mentioned, but I think if anyone is changing it out at that high of mileage, something is likely going wrong with it to begin with? 

most atf has friction modifiers, im not sure of their significance but an LSD will also not work unless you run the special limited slip oil so friction modifiers probably have a big impact. however, i believe flushing an automatic transmission and it failing afterwards is a myth. the old fluid will contain clutch friction material which will make the fluid more sticky and also develop more pressure, it would be the equivalent to having a failing transmission and putting in a quart of lucas stop slip to fix it. in theory it could happen but i seriously doubt it.

 

 

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Flushing can cause built up contaminates that have found a home to free up and plug up sensitive downstream components.  That's why it is so important to do regular fluid changes.  Keep the fluid and transmission clean with regular maintenance.  Drain and fill is fine, as well as removing the lines on the coolers for a more complete change.

Transmissions are one of the applications I only use OEM fluids on.

The comments about having trouble with new fluid in worn out high mileage transmissions are true.  Again, the damage is done.  It's a roll of the dice either way from there.

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1 hour ago, teamgreen02 said:

Flushing can cause built up contaminates that have found a home to free up and plug up sensitive downstream components.  That's why it is so important to do regular fluid changes.  Keep the fluid and transmission clean with regular maintenance.  Drain and fill is fine, as well as removing the lines on the coolers for a more complete change.

Transmissions are one of the applications I only use OEM fluids on.

The comments about having trouble with new fluid in worn out high mileage transmissions are true.  Again, the damage is done.  It's a roll of the dice either way from there.

I’ve had really good luck with valvoline maxlife ATF. I’ve used it in my BMWs and Toyotas. $18/gal at Walmart or Amazon. Full synthetic and covers a myriad of certifications. It’s good stuff. 

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3 hours ago, FrankieJames7 said:

most atf has friction modifiers, I'm not sure of their significance but an LSD will also not work unless you run the special limited slip oil so friction modifiers probably have a big impact. however, i believe flushing an automatic transmission and it failing afterwards is a myth. the old fluid will contain clutch friction material which will make the fluid more sticky and also develop more pressure, it would be the equivalent to having a failing transmission and putting in a quart of lucas stop slip to fix it. in theory it could happen but i seriously doubt it.

 

 

Friction modifiers are necessary to create more slipperyness (is that a word?) so to speak. Having an LSD additive is a must if you're not running Mobil LSD gear oil. It is not required with certain Mobil gear oil products. The additive is there to take away gear chatter caused by friction which the additive does.

Like what was said prior by Saya, flushes are not recommended by GM, but, like your way mentioned, there are other ways of doing it. With this truck, when I get around to it, I am just going to do the pan/filters/fill to see what happens? If and when it gets filthy dirty (ATF is an excellent cleaner) I will reconsider your way of doing a flush but that is likely a long ways off yet?

1 hour ago, ActionfigureJoe said:

I’ve had really good luck with Valvoline maxlife ATF. I’ve used it in my BMWs and Toyotas. $18/gal at Walmart or Amazon. Full synthetic and covers a myriad of certifications. It’s good stuff. 

Same. I believe it is very good, plus it is also talked about quite often at bitog.com (an oil site: https://bobistheoilguy.com/ ) 

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18 minutes ago, akvanden said:

Might have already been said, but just measure out how much you drain, and exact amount back in. I did on my ‘15 ram and just did last week on wife’s pilot. No way I trust lifetime fluid.

Why?? the mfg's say it's life time, they are the ones that obviously know it works for life since they are the professionals at manufacturing this product that lasts a lifetime. It's a cure for transmission services..,... Amirite??

:hay:

 

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Chemically flushing an auto trans, especially one that lacks regular maintenance, can damage it. Usually, it pushes all the shit into the valve body but other things can happen as well. Regular drain and fills is the best bet but even doing a drain and fill on an older trans isn’t going to hurt it. Maybe an old 727 or TH400 but not anything in the electronic era. 
 

I’ll let you guys keep beating this up though. :bc:

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1 hour ago, SayatodaU.P.eh? said:

Chemically flushing an auto trans, especially one that lacks regular maintenance, can damage it. Usually, it pushes all the shit into the valve body but other things can happen as well. Regular drain and fills is the best bet but even doing a drain and fill on an older trans isn’t going to hurt it. Maybe an old 727 or TH400 but not anything in the electronic era. 
 

I’ll let you guys keep beating this up though. :bc:

727 and TH400 shouldn’t be used in the same sentence. 

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7 hours ago, Rigid1 said:

Why?? the mfg's say it's life time, they are the ones that obviously know it works for life since they are the professionals at manufacturing this product that lasts a lifetime. It's a cure for transmission services..,... Amirite??

:hay:

 

Touche - add some ivermective when you refill. 

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8 hours ago, SayatodaU.P.eh? said:

Chemically flushing an auto trans, especially one that lacks regular maintenance, can damage it. Usually, it pushes all the shit into the valve body but other things can happen as well. Regular drain and fills is the best bet but even doing a drain and fill on an older trans isn’t going to hurt it. Maybe an old 727 or TH400 but not anything in the electronic era. 
 

I’ll let you guys keep beating this up though. :bc:

new fluid starts washing the varnish and sticking the valves on units that hasn't been serviced for a few yrs

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  Over filling by folks that don’t understand kills more automatic transmissions than anything, that’s why no dip stick. Same with u-joints with no grease fitting, greaseable if not done right won’t last near as long as nongreaseable. It’s all about folks NOT understanding all they know about it.

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Great topic Irv! I have a few questions on this topic as well. I have a 2015 Impala and tow with it. I am always concerned with transmission temps when towing and how it affects the life of the transmission fluid. My old Grand Prix has a Transmission Temp readout so you can monitor the temp you are running at. The Impala does not have this feature. What do you recommend for transmission oil changes if using the car to tow with?  What transmission temp is considered too high? I have 93K....in km on ours and had the transmission flushed once at about 80K as I was concerned with the fluid because of the towing. Transmission shifts fine and has not given any indication of a problem.   

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29 minutes ago, probill said:

Great topic Irv! I have a few questions on this topic as well. I have a 2015 Impala and tow with it. I am always concerned with transmission temps when towing and how it affects the life of the transmission fluid. My old Grand Prix has a Transmission Temp readout so you can monitor the temp you are running at. The Impala does not have this feature. What do you recommend for transmission oil changes if using the car to tow with?  What transmission temp is considered too high? I have 93K....in km on ours and had the transmission flushed once at about 80K as I was concerned with the fluid because of the towing. Transmission shifts fine and has not given any indication of a problem.   

That would all depend on how much weight you are pulling and the terrain you are pulling it in? (Hilly, etc?) Saya or others have to reply though as I honestly don't know the answers to your questions.

Good luck. :bc:

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21 hours ago, ActionfigureJoe said:

I’ve had really good luck with valvoline maxlife ATF. I’ve used it in my BMWs and Toyotas. $18/gal at Walmart or Amazon. Full synthetic and covers a myriad of certifications. It’s good stuff. 

Looks like decent stuff, good reviews, even on Hondas that can be problematic with aftermarket fluids.  Honda DW1 was $8.85/quart at the dealer yesterday.  It isn't any less expensive online so I just grab what I need at the dealer.  Plus another quart or two so I can top up to make up for all the leaks, LOL.

Ford Mercon V and LV I buy from Rock Auto.

19 hours ago, akvanden said:

Might have already been said, but just measure out how much you drain, and exact amount back in. I did on my ‘15 ram and just did last week on wife’s pilot. No way I trust lifetime fluid.

I'm way past the point I can do that.  Probably drained out a quart or two, put 3.25 quarts back in.

On the Honda the transmission drain plug is right next to the engine oil drain.  17mm on 3/8 long ratchet to remove the oil plug, remove socket and pull the transmission drain.  Easy.

18 hours ago, Rigid1 said:

Why?? the mfg's say it's life time, they are the ones that obviously know it works for life since they are the professionals at manufacturing this product that lasts a lifetime. It's a cure for transmission services..,... Amirite??

:hay:

Their definition of lifetime and my definition of lifetime are way different.

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4 minutes ago, teamgreen02 said:

Looks like decent stuff, good reviews, even on Hondas that can be problematic with aftermarket fluids.  Honda DW1 was $8.85/quart at the dealer yesterday.  It isn't any less expensive online so I just grab what I need at the dealer.  Plus another quart or two so I can top up to make up for all the leaks, LOL.

Ford Mercon V and LV I buy from Rock Auto.

I'm way past the point I can do that.  Probably drained out a quart or two, put 3.25 quarts back in.

On the Honda the transmission drain plug is right next to the engine oil drain.  17mm on 3/8 long ratchet to remove the oil plug, remove socket and pull the transmission drain.  Easy.

Their definition of lifetime and my definition of lifetime are way different.

Some factory fluids are reasonably priced. The factory stuff for European cars is very high priced. 

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22 hours ago, ActionfigureJoe said:

I’ve had really good luck with valvoline maxlife ATF. I’ve used it in my BMWs and Toyotas. $18/gal at Walmart or Amazon. Full synthetic and covers a myriad of certifications. It’s good stuff. 

X2 on maxlife. Using instead of the expensive ZF fluid!

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I’ve had problems with Redline in race transmissions (t400, t400 w/brake, t350, and powerglide with brake and their outdrive gear oil (shockproof heavy) behind decent power big blocks. Only my experience with them and have not tried in other things. Too much $$$ involved to try again. Lol. Just stating my experience. No more, no less.

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