Tommcat Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 2 hours ago, Zambroski said: Dare to dream…. There was one in Detroit for cars in the 60s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SayatodaU.P.eh? Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 7 hours ago, Crnr2Crnr said: the crazy thing is you could probably sell the ripped Rip for $200 right now You are right and I will, sell it that is. I have no use for it. Even if I got $100 out of it. Beats the hell out of it sitting in the barn taking up space on a shelf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SayatodaU.P.eh? Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 @Doug @Bontz Seems like I’ve probably asked this question before but what’s the call on tunnel protectors on the 137 Axys Indys? I haven’t even looked into them at all because I had planned to put an Ice Attack on this thing but if this studded Rip 2 that I’m going to look at tonight pans out, I’ll be running that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bontz Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 2 hours ago, SayatodaU.P.eh? said: @Doug @Bontz Seems like I’ve probably asked this question before but what’s the call on tunnel protectors on the 137 Axys Indys? I haven’t even looked into them at all because I had planned to put an Ice Attack on this thing but if this studded Rip 2 that I’m going to look at tonight pans out, I’ll be running that. Nick - I need to go back and verify 100%, but my memory is that you DON'T need them if you're staying with studs on the inside belt only. I do know with 100% certainty with the Matryx, the tunnel protectors are required. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SayatodaU.P.eh? Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 Just now, Bontz said: Nick - I need to go back and verify 100%, but my memory is that you DON'T need them if you're staying with studs on the inside belt only. I do know with 100% certainty with the Matryx, the tunnel protectors are required. Yup, it has just 96 down the middle. Just figured that if it does need it, putting them in while I am swapping the track would be time to do it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 (edited) 5 hours ago, SayatodaU.P.eh? said: @Doug @Bontz Seems like I’ve probably asked this question before but what’s the call on tunnel protectors on the 137 Axys Indys? I haven’t even looked into them at all because I had planned to put an Ice Attack on this thing but if this studded Rip 2 that I’m going to look at tonight pans out, I’ll be running that. Nick the Ice Attack has the embedded tip studs one the outside belts and I'm not sure how far above the lug they extend. On the Axys sled you loss .25 to .38 of clearance over the outside belt compared to the center. On the outside belt you have about .50 clearance so I don't know what clearance you'll have. If you go with the Rip 2 and only stud the center then no you will not need tunnel protectors Edited October 4, 2021 by Doug 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zambroski Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 6 minutes ago, Doug said: Nick the Ice Attack has the embedded tip studs one the outside belts and I'm not sure how far above the lug they extend. On the Axys sled you loss .25 to .38 of clearance over the outside belt compared to the center. On the outside belt you have about .50 clearance so I don't know what clearance you'll have. If you go with the Rip 2 and only stud the center then no you will not need tunnel protectors That’s a close call IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamgreen02 Posted October 12, 2021 Share Posted October 12, 2021 Got the rear skid out this weekend to get the shocks off to be rebuilt. Found this gem. Bolt/nut were still tight but bent. That could have been really, really bad. This bolt runs all the way through so I had to cut it out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zambroski Posted October 12, 2021 Share Posted October 12, 2021 1 hour ago, teamgreen02 said: Got the rear skid out this weekend to get the shocks off to be rebuilt. Found this gem. Bolt/nut were still tight but bent. That could have been really, really bad. This bolt runs all the way through so I had to cut it out. Not good. Also, don’t forget to check the “front skid” for similar issues. Just dropped bumpers and spindles off for powder coating. Sent in first order to Country Cat. tunnel protectors, bug screen, new riser and some other bits and pieces. Gotta figure out what I’m gonna do with the track next. Or clutching? Gearing? It’s already getting out of control. Normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamgreen02 Posted October 12, 2021 Share Posted October 12, 2021 18 minutes ago, Zambroski said: Not good. Also, don’t forget to check the “front skid” for similar issues. Just dropped bumpers and spindles off for powder coating. Sent in first order to Country Cat. tunnel protectors, bug screen, new riser and some other bits and pieces. Gotta figure out what I’m gonna do with the track next. Or clutching? Gearing? It’s already getting out of control. Normal. I'll check the front skid cross shaft. So far that has looked fine but I didn't check it out real close yet. Maybe a 1.6" Cobra if you are ok with the softer lug track? I have stainless steel torx screws for the snow flap if you are interested. You can't really rivet the snow flap back on without removing the tail light. Think I had to buy a bag of 25 and I used 4 so far. Will see drail in a couple weeks and could send some with him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crnr2Crnr Posted October 12, 2021 Author Share Posted October 12, 2021 1 hour ago, Zambroski said: Gotta figure out what I’m gonna do with the track next. Or clutching? Gearing? It’s already getting out of control. Normal. Did your manual come with a gearing selector chart? Interesting they use 8T 2.86 Exvolute drivers on the 21 RXC (23/40) SX 9T 2.52 Exvolute (20/49) RR 8000 (int) with 1.75 lug is 9T 2.86 Involute (22/48) Riots with 1.35/1.6/2.0 is 9T 2.86 Exvolute (22/48 1.35/1.6) & (21/49 2.0) Was looking at driveshaft and driven shaft p/n's until the internet shit out on me... Sigh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zambroski Posted October 12, 2021 Share Posted October 12, 2021 1 hour ago, Crnr2Crnr said: Did your manual come with a gearing selector chart? Interesting they use 8T 2.86 Exvolute drivers on the 21 RXC (23/40) SX 9T 2.52 Exvolute (20/49) RR 8000 (int) with 1.75 lug is 9T 2.86 Involute (22/48) Riots with 1.35/1.6/2.0 is 9T 2.86 Exvolute (22/48 1.35/1.6) & (21/49 2.0) Was looking at driveshaft and driven shaft p/n's until the internet shit out on me... Sigh It did. The differences between the SX and XC is really the use. Both race sleds but the SX is designed to go 20-50 up and down as fast as possible while the XC is for more sustained speeds of 40-60. Track length (pitch), 129 XC vs 137 SX, will play into the gearing and drivers also. Involuted are better for speed but, lack the same torque on low end traction needs for obvious reasons. I think my concern is if I try to gear and clutch this thing the same as a SX, I’m not actually gonna get all the benefit and may even hamper it’s performance. It’s a different mil and map in the SX. But, I also don’t care anything about speeds past about 70. I need 30-60 up and down. We’ll see. The best advice is always get it out there and see before doing anything silly but, I don’t think dropping some stiffer springs in the clutches and maybe adding a bit of weight will hurt much and putting a 1.5 or 1.7 track can only help with the XT’s I’m gonna add up front. Otherwise, It might be like dropping a plow blade down in the corners. Yikes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Not greg b Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 2 hours ago, Zambroski said: It did. The differences between the SX and XC is really the use. Both race sleds but the SX is designed to go 20-50 up and down as fast as possible while the XC is for more sustained speeds of 40-60. Track length (pitch), 129 XC vs 137 SX, will play into the gearing and drivers also. Involuted are better for speed but, lack the same torque on low end traction needs for obvious reasons. I think my concern is if I try to gear and clutch this thing the same as a SX, I’m not actually gonna get all the benefit and may even hamper it’s performance. It’s a different mil and map in the SX. But, I also don’t care anything about speeds past about 70. I need 30-60 up and down. We’ll see. The best advice is always get it out there and see before doing anything silly but, I don’t think dropping some stiffer springs in the clutches and maybe adding a bit of weight will hurt much and putting a 1.5 or 1.7 track can only help with the XT’s I’m gonna add up front. Otherwise, It might be like dropping a plow blade down in the corners. Yikes! You also can’t fit the 9 tooth drives in the xc. They won’t clear the rails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racinfarmer Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 (edited) 7 hours ago, teamgreen02 said: Got the rear skid out this weekend to get the shocks off to be rebuilt. Found this gem. Bolt/nut were still tight but bent. That could have been really, really bad. This bolt runs all the way through so I had to cut it out. I have a front shaft in mine that someone in Sweden was making. It wasn't too bad price wise either. Never bent one. Edit: http://www.catmaster.se/product.php?ID=1309 6 hours ago, Zambroski said: Not good. Also, don’t forget to check the “front skid” for similar issues. Just dropped bumpers and spindles off for powder coating. Sent in first order to Country Cat. tunnel protectors, bug screen, new riser and some other bits and pieces. Gotta figure out what I’m gonna do with the track next. Or clutching? Gearing? It’s already getting out of control. Normal. Pick out one of the stud patterns molded in to your track and just go for it. Edited October 13, 2021 by racinfarmer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crnr2Crnr Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 2 hours ago, Zambroski said: It did. The differences between the SX and XC is really the use. Both race sleds but the SX is designed to go 20-50 up and down as fast as possible while the XC is for more sustained speeds of 40-60. Track length (pitch), 129 XC vs 137 SX, will play into the gearing and drivers also. Involuted are better for speed but, lack the same torque on low end traction needs for obvious reasons. I think my concern is if I try to gear and clutch this thing the same as a SX, I’m not actually gonna get all the benefit and may even hamper it’s performance. It’s a different mil and map in the SX. But, I also don’t care anything about speeds past about 70. I need 30-60 up and down. We’ll see. The best advice is always get it out there and see before doing anything silly but, I don’t think dropping some stiffer springs in the clutches and maybe adding a bit of weight will hurt much and putting a 1.5 or 1.7 track can only help with the XT’s I’m gonna add up front. Otherwise, It might be like dropping a plow blade down in the corners. Yikes! Can you scan or screenshot the gearing selector chart they show if you get a chance? Was digging into the drivers, gearing and shafts to see if one can simply change to 'standard gearing' from other sleds rather than be locked into the expensive slipper, and trying to sort out if the shafts/splines are the same. Assuming the race sleds get hardened shafts. Trying to sort out if one could simply swap tracks and go to alternate gearing from one of the other models mentioned above or if you're locked into the 40/49 slipper. Mainly curious because I'm just nerdy that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crnr2Crnr Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 29 minutes ago, racinfarmer said: Pick out one of the stud patterns molded in to your track and just go for it. It's a Rip2 and he seemingly wants SX sled bite. If it were me (which it isn't) I'd sell the Rip2 as a new take off and try a studded Storm 150 as I believe @favoritos and a few others have if he wants more dig without going to a 1.75 and better (?) gearing options like the Riot 1.6 uses. Throwing shit against the wall to see if it sticks is always expensive but let's help Zamb spend his wife's $. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zambroski Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 35 minutes ago, Crnr2Crnr said: Can you scan or screenshot the gearing selector chart they show if you get a chance? Was digging into the drivers, gearing and shafts to see if one can simply change to 'standard gearing' from other sleds rather than be locked into the expensive slipper, and trying to sort out if the shafts/splines are the same. Assuming the race sleds get hardened shafts. Trying to sort out if one could simply swap tracks and go to alternate gearing from one of the other models mentioned above or if you're locked into the 40/49 slipper. Mainly curious because I'm just nerdy that way. 17 minutes ago, Crnr2Crnr said: It's a Rip2 and he seemingly wants SX sled bite. If it were me (which it isn't) I'd sell the Rip2 as a new take off and try a studded Storm 150 as I believe @favoritos and a few others have if he wants more dig without going to a 1.75 and better (?) gearing options like the Riot 1.6 uses. Throwing shit against the wall to see if it sticks is always expensive but let's help Zamb spend his wife's $. Thinking of a rip 1.5. Is rather not drag scratchers all the time if I can help it. Of course, @racinfarmeriant wrong either, stud it right and giv’r! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crnr2Crnr Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 (edited) 30 minutes ago, Zambroski said: Thinking of a rip 1.5. Is rather not drag scratchers all the time if I can help it. Of course, @racinfarmeriant wrong either, stud it right and giv’r! Looks like a standard Cat gearing chart, is there a separate section with gear tooth count, splines and part numbers, like this from the old SP's? (see below) Rip2 1.5? ick... https://camso.co/en/powersports/snowmobile/products/ripsaw-ii-1-5?pr=PS50 Center lug pattern on the Storm looks better imo. https://camso.co/en/powersports/snowmobile/products/storm-150?pr=PS54 Edited October 13, 2021 by Crnr2Crnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zambroski Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 11 minutes ago, Crnr2Crnr said: Looks like a standard Cat gearing chart, is there a separate section with gear tooth count, splines and part numbers, like this from the old SP's? (see below) Rip2 1.5? ick... https://camso.co/en/powersports/snowmobile/products/ripsaw-ii-1-5?pr=PS50 Center lug pattern on the Storm looks better imo. https://camso.co/en/powersports/snowmobile/products/storm-150?pr=PS54 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommcat Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 Boost covers up bad gear choices pretty nicely....just sayin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crnr2Crnr Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Zambroski said: Edit: Looks like you could try a 21T, the stock 40T TOS and still use the 86P chain (close to 21/41 @ 0.512) That's a $33 test https://www.countrycat.com/oem-arctic-cat-parts/arctic-cat-2602-966-sprocket-bw-21t-fwd-13w-19-spl-30-deg Edited October 13, 2021 by Crnr2Crnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SayatodaU.P.eh? Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 Always looked at driver size/tooth count as necessary only due to track pitch, rolling resistance and to fit within the tunnel without hitting the rail tips. Guess I’ve never really looked into using it as a tuning aid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crnr2Crnr Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 (edited) 56 minutes ago, SayatodaU.P.eh? said: Always looked at driver size/tooth count as necessary only due to track pitch, rolling resistance and to fit within the tunnel without hitting the rail tips. Guess I’ve never really looked into using it as a tuning aid. this is an amusing tool to use if you know the combos that will work together https://hurricaneperformance.ca/gear-calculator/ as is this for your new trail whip which should be 22/41 2.86 8T XC Terrain Gearing 22/41 2.52 9T https://cdn1.polaris.com/globalassets/snow/root/team-polaris/racer-resources/cross-contry/setup-information/2021-600-indy-xcr-cross-country-terrain-racing-set-up-sheet.pdf?v=89142f36 Ice Oval / Mira Enduro Gearing 21/42 2.52 9T https://cdn1.polaris.com/globalassets/snow/root/team-polaris/racer-resources/enduro/setup-information/2021-600-indy-xcr-mira-ice-racing-set-up-sheet.pdf?v=89142f52 Polaris gears are very affordable btw or, call Ricky Edited October 13, 2021 by Crnr2Crnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racinfarmer Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 Ordered another 60 track clips today. Won't see them until November at the earliest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SayatodaU.P.eh? Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 6 hours ago, Crnr2Crnr said: this is an amusing tool to use if you know the combos that will work together https://hurricaneperformance.ca/gear-calculator/ as is this for your new trail whip which should be 22/41 2.86 8T XC Terrain Gearing 22/41 2.52 9T https://cdn1.polaris.com/globalassets/snow/root/team-polaris/racer-resources/cross-contry/setup-information/2021-600-indy-xcr-cross-country-terrain-racing-set-up-sheet.pdf?v=89142f36 Ice Oval / Mira Enduro Gearing 21/42 2.52 9T https://cdn1.polaris.com/globalassets/snow/root/team-polaris/racer-resources/enduro/setup-information/2021-600-indy-xcr-mira-ice-racing-set-up-sheet.pdf?v=89142f52 Polaris gears are very affordable btw or, call Ricky Oh as far as gearing yeah, I’ve played that game before but driver size and tooth count? I know a couple of buddies of mine that both had heavily modded Firecats (1000 and 1200 on spray back in the day before turbo sleds) use to play with driver size a little but I never really asked why they were doing it. 22/41 should be about perfect for the Indy. I do need to get some good speedworkx clutch springs and a fresh belt coming soon though. I’ll do all of that during the track swap. 5 hours ago, racinfarmer said: Ordered another 60 track clips today. Won't see them until November at the earliest. I loath no other part replacement, on a snowmobile, than fucking track clips. Installing studs is a close second. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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