Winterizing a 90 HP 4 Stroke Merc outboard and boat

[irv]

This year, due to retirement, I have decided to do my own winterizing and storage so I am looking for some tips/info if needed? Mind you, none of this will be difficult nor am I afraid to go about things, I am just curious what everyone else does in hopes of learning a thing or two.

I have purchased 5 ltrs of Quicksilver 25W-40 oil, a filter, some gear lube and a pump. I have also purchased new squish washers in case mine are damaged but I'll likely use them anyways even if they aren't?

I have already added a full can of Sea foam to likely about 10 gals of gas currently in the tank so that part is taken care of. I am curious, however, if anyone fogs their 4 strokes or just sprays some down the cylinders then turns over the engine a few times?

I will be removing the prop, greasing the splines, greasing the other zerks, etc, plus I want to, weather permitting, steam clean my carpeting. The boat will be going in indoor storage so no need of shrink wrapping it. I'll just splash a bunch of Bounce sheets around, put my cover on, and call it a season after a good cleaning a waxing of the boat and engine.

Also, should the engine be tilted all the way down during storage or left up a bit? There is a built in tilt support bracket. Can/should I use that during the off season?

I plan on picking up the boat this weekend (likely tomorrow?) and bringing it home Monday or Tuesday next week so I am curious if people use/believe in transom savers? I will be traveling 125 km's all on paved, fairly smooth roads, so I don't plan on purchasing one for this trip but I am curious if I should for the years to come? The boat only traveled 11 km's each spring and fall so it wasn't even a thought, plus I have read both pro's and con's, but that was over 10 yrs ago. In the pic with the truck will be where I will most likely be traveling home with the engine in this position. 

Thanks in advance. 

[Mainecat]

Nice boat. Talk is Kivalo is an expert on rowing.

Edited September 4, 2019 by Mainecat

[spin_dry]

43 minutes ago, irv said:

This year, due to retirement, I have decided to do my own winterizing and storage so I am looking for some tips/info if needed? Mind you, none of this will be difficult nor am I afraid to go about things, I am just curious what everyone else does in hopes of learning a thing or two.

I have purchased 5 ltrs of Quicksilver 25W-40 oil, a filter, some gear lube and a pump. I have also purchased new squish washers in case mine are damaged but I'll likely use them anyways even if they aren't?

I have already added a full can of Sea foam to likely about 10 gals of gas currently in the tank so that part is taken care of. I am curious, however, if anyone fogs their 4 strokes or just sprays some down the cylinders then turns over the engine a few times?

I will be removing the prop, greasing the splines, greasing the other zerks, etc, plus I want to, weather permitting, steam clean my carpeting. The boat will be going in indoor storage so no need of shrink wrapping it. I'll just splash a bunch of Bounce sheets around, put my cover on, and call it a season after a good cleaning a waxing of the boat and engine.

Also, should the engine be tilted all the way down during storage or left up a bit? There is a built in tilt support bracket. Can/should I use that during the off season?

I plan on picking up the boat this weekend (likely tomorrow?) and bringing it home Monday or Tuesday next week so I am curious if people use/believe in transom savers? I will be traveling 125 km's all on paved, fairly smooth roads, so I don't plan on purchasing one for this trip but I am curious if I should for the years to come? The boat only traveled 11 km's each spring and fall so it wasn't even a thought, plus I have read both pro's and con's, but that was over 10 yrs ago. In the pic with the truck will be where I will most likely be traveling home with the engine in this position. 

Thanks in advance. 

Nice rig. 

[Rigid1]

Run some Mechanic in a bottle thru it for the fuel system..

[Whiskey Tango Foxtrot]

I put a healthy dose of MMO in the tank also, fogs all the internals. Never used seafoam as a stabilizer so? Engine down up, doesn't matter. The engine has a built in lock for trailering, usually port side of the engine, to take the weight off the piston, if you're worried about it.

Edited September 4, 2019 by Whiskey Tango Foxtrot

[XC.Morrison]

I’d disconnect the battery and possibly put a tender on it or check the charge every couple of months.  Not as important if it’s an AGM.  

[irv]

24 minutes ago, Rigid1 said:

Run some Mechanic in a bottle thru it for the fuel system..

 

21 minutes ago, Whiskey Tango Foxtrot said:

I put a healthy dose of MMO in the tank also, fogs all the internals. Never used seafoam as a stabilizer so? Engine down up, doesn't matter. The engine has a built in lock for trailering, usually port side of the engine, to take the weight off the piston, if you're worried about it.

Sea Foam does all that MIAB will do but I don't know what MMO is? I've used Sea Foam for years in my sleds and other toys/lawnmowers, etc. It will also store/preserve fuel for up to 2 yrs. 

WTF, are you talking about the trim lock? That isn't meant for trailering but rather for just working on the engine/tilt mechanism. It can get bent if used for trailering. Where I am storing it, I assume the engine trimmed all the way down will be necessary, but if not, I may leave it up slightly? I'll ask the marina or look it up to see what is suggested, however? 

 

[Woodtick]

Since you are retired,take it to AZ for the winter.

[irv]

3 minutes ago, XC.Morrison said:

I’d disconnect the battery and possibly put a tender on it or check the charge every couple of months.  Not as important if it’s an AGM.  

I'll be removing the batteries and storing them in my garage over the winter. Both will have the water levels checked/replenished then charged full before storage then checked/charged throughout the winter as needed. My trolling motor battery is a deep cycle and my cranking is just like a vehicle, or a non deep cycle type of one. 

 

[Whiskey Tango Foxtrot]

2 minutes ago, irv said:

MMO

Marvel mystery oil

 

3 minutes ago, irv said:

 WTF, are you talking about the trim lock? That isn't meant for trailering but rather for just working on the engine/tilt mechanism.

It's called a trailer lock. People use it all the time.

[irv]

Just now, Whiskey Tango Foxtrot said:

Marvel mystery oil

 

It's called a trailer lock. People use it all the time.

I'll have to look to see if mine has a trailer lock but I am guessing no? This is in the manual.

TRANSPORTING
21
Trailering Boat/Outboard Trailer your boat with the outboard tilted down in a vertical operating position. If additional ground clearance is required, the outboard should be tilted up using an accessory outboard support device. Refer to your local dealer for recommendations. Additional clearance may be required for railroad crossings, driveways and trailer bouncing.
ob00660 IMPORTANT: Do not rely on the power trim/tilt system or tilt support lever to maintain proper ground clearance for trailering. The outboard tilt support lever is not intended to support the outboard for trailering. Shift the outboard to forward gear. This prevents the propeller from spinning freely.

TILTING OPERATION To tilt outboard, shut off the engine and press the trim/tilt switch or auxiliary tilt switch to the up position. The outboard will tilt up until the switch is released or it reaches its maximum tilt position. 1. Engage the tilt support lever, by rotating knob to bring the support lever upward. 2. Lower outboard to rest on the tilt support lever. 3. Disengage the tilt support lever, by raising the outboard off the support lever and rotating the lever down. Lower the outboard.
 

[Whiskey Tango Foxtrot]

Different wording north of the boarder maybe. Almost everyone around here, uses it. Just like is stated, it's not to support the weight of the engine, lower until it just touches but no significant weight. Just makes a stop to prevent the full load bouncing on the piston and tilt mechanism over bumps when trailering. 

[Big Crappie]

No need to fog a 4 stroke. Change the oil and filter, Drain and refill the gear case and leave the motor down if possible so all of the water drains.

[irv]

3 minutes ago, Whiskey Tango Foxtrot said:

Different wording north of the boarder maybe. Almost everyone around here, uses it. Just like is stated, it's not to support the weight of the engine, lower until it just touches but no significant weight. Just makes a stop to prevent the full load bouncing on the piston and tilt mechanism over bumps when trailering. 

I recently read where they can get bent but I assume that would have to be a fairly rough/bumpy road? I would like something that stops the engine from creeping down while trailering but I am only assuming it might? When my boat is on my lift and out of the water, I trim up about a quarter way+ and leave it there. The boat can sit on the lift for 2 weeks sometimes and I don't think it has ever creeped down/moved but that is just sitting on my lift and not going down the road. 

I'll be keeping a pretty good eye on it during the trip home but I'm guessing it likely won't move at all? I see a lot of boats on the road and the majority don't have transom savers nor anything else that I can see so I'm not worried.

I believe the engine is around 500 Lbs, which I guess is significant, so I'll see how the trip goes then decide if I should purchase a transom saver? A guy I know at the marina, who delivers boats all over the place said 99% of the boats he delivers don't have them either but he says he always makes sure the engine aren't tilted up more than they need to be. 

[irv]

5 minutes ago, Big Crappie said:

No need to fog a 4 stroke. Change the oil and filter, Drain and refill the gear case and leave the motor down if possible so all of the water drains.

I fog my 4 stroke Yammy Vector but I think just getting some down on the rings/piston is likely enough? I likely won't fog my outboard as it's an EFI as opposed to my carbed Vector, but I'll still shoot some down each cylinder just to help coat the internals somewhat.

I did watch a vid from a boating show where a guy added oil to his portable tank and ran the engine until smoke appeared. He said it was necessary? (in this vid) Mine has a built in gas tank so I won't be doing this. His vid is the only one I've watched where someone did that, but I believe this is a CDN show?

 

[Whiskey Tango Foxtrot]

27 minutes ago, irv said:

fog my 4 stroke Yammy Vector but I think just getting some down on the rings/piston is likely enough? I likely won't fog my outboard as it's an EFI as opposed to my carbed Vector, but I'll still shoot some down each cylinder just to help coat the internals somewhat.

I did watch a vid from a boating show where a guy added oil to his portable tank and ran the engine until smoke appeared. He said it was necessary? 

This is a major reason to add the MMO (Marvel mystery oil) to a tank like he described. It helps lubricate the electric fuel pumps, injectors, and fogs the engine without fouling plugs.

37 minutes ago, irv said:

A guy I know at the marina, who delivers boats all over the place said 99% of the boats he delivers don't have them either

 

[irv]

54 minutes ago, Whiskey Tango Foxtrot said:

This is a major reason to add the MMO (Marvel mystery oil) to a tank like he described. It helps lubricate the electric fuel pumps, injectors, and fogs the engine without fouling plugs.

 

I'll have to look into that a bit further, and I do see it is available up here. I am real curious what the marina did where I bought and stored my boat the last 13 yrs? I have to pick up my trailer tomorrow so hopefully I can talk to the guy I like to talk to about what all they did and what he recommends.

Thanks for the info you gave me. 

[Big Crappie]

1 hour ago, Whiskey Tango Foxtrot said:

This is a major reason to add the MMO (Marvel mystery oil) to a tank like he described. It helps lubricate the electric fuel pumps, injectors, and fogs the engine without fouling plugs.

 

Sea foam does this also.

[probill]

I also trailer my boat from time to time but would not use the tilt support bracket while trailering. My manual also states not to use it to trailer. I have used a short piece of 2 X 4 placed between the motor and the motor transom bracket. Carefully place the wood and slowly lower the motor down so the wood is trapped securely between the motor transom bracket and the motor making sure it does not contact either of the trim or tilt rams of the motor transom bracket. Store the motor in the fully down position to ensure as much water as possible drains from the lower unit. I dont own a 4 stroke but I dont think you have to fog the motor because it is a 4 stroke. Change the oil in the motor and the lower unit as you have mentioned and you should be good to go for next year. If you tow your boat with the motor in the fully down position I would make sure it is left in forward gear while being towed. This will help to prevent prop from spinning freely as I have heard that this can cause premature failure of the lower unit seal over time.    

[irv]

1 hour ago, probill said:

I also trailer my boat from time to time but would not use the tilt support bracket while trailering. My manual also states not to use it to trailer. I have used a short piece of 2 X 4 placed between the motor and the motor transom bracket. Carefully place the wood and slowly lower the motor down so the wood is trapped securely between the motor transom bracket and the motor making sure it does not contact either of the trim or tilt rams of the motor transom bracket. Store the motor in the fully down position to ensure as much water as possible drains from the lower unit. I dont own a 4 stroke but I dont think you have to fog the motor because it is a 4 stroke. Change the oil in the motor and the lower unit as you have mentioned and you should be good to go for next year. If you tow your boat with the motor in the fully down position I would make sure it is left in forward gear while being towed. This will help to prevent prop from spinning freely as I have heard that this can cause premature failure of the lower unit seal over time.    

I read some today about the placement of a 2x4 but I never seen any pics of exactly where it was placed. Truthfully, until I actually see how it's down, I'd be afraid of it coming out while underway and striking another vehicle. Aside from the weight resting on it, is there a way of securing it further? 

Thanks. 

[awful knawful]

Run some seafoam through fuel.

Engine oil

Lower unit oil

Put it away.

Don't over think it. 

[probill]

Place the 2 X 4 parallel with the transom and sticking out slightly on each side of the transom bracket. Not sure how many pistons are in your lift/trim system but I place the wood above the 2 trim pistons so it will be very tough to lose the wood unless you are on some really bumpy road. Nice boat by the way. Just curious how much does that motor weigh?    

[Doorider]

On 9/5/2019 at 6:57 AM, awful knawful said:

Run some seafoam through fuel.

Engine oil

Lower unit oil

Put it away.

Don't over think it. 

This.

 

I never do anything to mine other that sea-foam and unhook the battery.  Spring is when I do oil change and fill her up with fresh gas.  It only sits a few months, not years so don't overthink it

[awful knawful]

I don't do fuck all. But Johnson 2 stroke.

Lower unit in spring. That's it.

[AKIQPilot]

On 9/4/2019 at 2:19 PM, irv said:

This year, due to retirement, I have decided to do my own winterizing and storage so I am looking for some tips/info if needed? Mind you, none of this will be difficult nor am I afraid to go about things, I am just curious what everyone else does in hopes of learning a thing or two.

I have purchased 5 ltrs of Quicksilver 25W-40 oil, a filter, some gear lube and a pump. I have also purchased new squish washers in case mine are damaged but I'll likely use them anyways even if they aren't?

I have already added a full can of Sea foam to likely about 10 gals of gas currently in the tank so that part is taken care of. I am curious, however, if anyone fogs their 4 strokes or just sprays some down the cylinders then turns over the engine a few times?

I will be removing the prop, greasing the splines, greasing the other zerks, etc, plus I want to, weather permitting, steam clean my carpeting. The boat will be going in indoor storage so no need of shrink wrapping it. I'll just splash a bunch of Bounce sheets around, put my cover on, and call it a season after a good cleaning a waxing of the boat and engine.

Also, should the engine be tilted all the way down during storage or left up a bit? There is a built in tilt support bracket. Can/should I use that during the off season?

I plan on picking up the boat this weekend (likely tomorrow?) and bringing it home Monday or Tuesday next week so I am curious if people use/believe in transom savers? I will be traveling 125 km's all on paved, fairly smooth roads, so I don't plan on purchasing one for this trip but I am curious if I should for the years to come? The boat only traveled 11 km's each spring and fall so it wasn't even a thought, plus I have read both pro's and con's, but that was over 10 yrs ago. In the pic with the truck will be where I will most likely be traveling home with the engine in this position. 

Thanks in advance. 

Nice looking boat Irv.    That is a good outboard.  I'm hoping to replace the motor on my Pontoon with one very similar next summer. 

On 9/4/2019 at 3:47 PM, Woodtick said:

Since you are retired,take it to AZ for the winter.

Woody nails it with this post.  Hook onto that bitch and head south.  I'll see you in Havasu in October.  

On 9/5/2019 at 2:57 AM, awful knawful said:

Run some seafoam through fuel.

Engine oil

Lower unit oil

Put it away.

Don't over think it. 

This is it.  4 strokes don't need to be fogged.  

I too suggest lowering the outboard so the lower unit (through prop exhaust) does not fill up with condensation, rain, snow.  

I also cover the top half of my motor with a big garbage bag.  This helps keep dust out and the cowling looks new year after year.