Wife/we need a new car. What's good?

[Sksman]

You should probably consider an electric car.

[snowbear]

I have a older Impala, 2007, got it with 45000 on it 6 years ago, now has 133000, the only thing I have had to change on it was a faulty oil pressure switch. Brakes yes but you have to change brakes on whatever you drive. I would buy another one. Would like to try the newer style someday 

[Thinksno]

Son in law had his oil pressure switch fail and spew oil empting  his engine. Seized ip tight and now gone to wreckers. It was a nice 2005 Buick Allure 3.8. 

[irv]

On 8/30/2017 at 0:25 PM, Sksman said:

How about a Canadian built car?  

Who cares about brand support built in Canada.

I cant believe a hydro union guy would think otherwise.

 

Still looking, but will most likely go with a Malibu at this point? 

Thanks for help! 

[irv]

On 9/1/2017 at 7:18 PM, Frostynuts said:

Chevy Impalas are nice comfy cars, and so are the caddys.

Impala is what we went with. I purchased this one today. (pick it up Wednesday) A 2017 Impala Premier with the 3.6. It comes with heated leather seats, sunroof, front collision warning, blind spot warning, heated mirrors, and a load of other options. I purchased it today at a Ford dealer, of all places, but they had the best prices around and just lowered all theirs yesterday, a $1000 bucks! Pretty happy with this purchase and pretty happy with how they ride and handle. The 3.6, with 305 H/P is no slouch either! http://www.colonyfordlincoln.com/used/Chevrolet/2017-Chevrolet-Impala-brampton-toronto-56ddfe500a0e0a4034a3aba6cf2a2c4b.htm

 

[odot1]

2 hours ago, irv said:

Impala is what we went with. I purchased this one today. (pick it up Wednesday) A 2017 Impala Premier with the 3.6. It comes with heated leather seats, sunroof, front collision warning, blind spot warning, heated mirrors, and a load of other options. I purchased it today at a Ford dealer, of all places, but they had the best prices around and just lowered all theirs yesterday, a $1000 bucks! Pretty happy with this purchase and pretty happy with how they ride and handle. The 3.6, with 305 H/P is no slouch either! http://www.colonyfordlincoln.com/used/Chevrolet/2017-Chevrolet-Impala-brampton-toronto-56ddfe500a0e0a4034a3aba6cf2a2c4b.htm

 

 

Looks great!!  Congrats Irv!!

[Frostynuts]

Your wife will love it. With only 20K on it, do you know the history of the car ?

[ArcticCrusher]

I believe it was a daily rental, ie Hertz, Avis.  Still has full warrenty and any damage would have to be reported.

[Thinksno]

Nice car Dale 

[pissedoff]

I'm in the same boat, looking for a car for the wife. What I've researched , gm's with late model 2.4 have piston ring and timing chain  problems, 3.6  3.9  v6 with double overhead cam engines have timing chain problems. Good news 3.5  3.9  overhead valve push rod engines  are good. Impala Lt  Lucerne .

[Sksman]

1 hour ago, pissedoff said:

I'm in the same boat, looking for a car for the wife. What I've researched , gm's with late model 2.4 have piston ring and timing chain  problems, 3.6  3.9  v6 with double overhead cam engines have timing chain problems. Good news 3.5  3.9  overhead valve push rod engines  are good. Impala Lt  Lucerne .

Everything has problems.  Just google anything and you can find lots of issues with every car or truck.  Thats the way of the internet.  You easily find 10 failures in 100,000cars is it a big deal?  Or 10 in 200,000 cars?

Can be on internet!

You get lucky or you dont.  

 

[pissedoff]

Facts I'm stating are direct from GM service bulletins  released to mechanics, that  can be found on the net. I'M  a gm mechanic.

[irv]

16 hours ago, odot1 said:

Looks great!!  Congrats Irv!!

Thanks, Sean! I appreciate the help provided as well. 

4 hours ago, Frostynuts said:

Your wife will love it. With only 20K on it, do you know the history of the car ?

Not really, only know it came from Enterprise. It shows clean with Car Proof and no mention of damage/paint issues. My Dad and I went over the car really well, looking down both sides looking for waves/repainted spots/sections but seen none. Interior is mint as well with no rips or tears that we could see. I know once the car is home and I begin washing/waxing it, I am bound to find something but I don't think I'll find anything glaring, hopefully?

4 hours ago, ArcticCrusher said:

I believe it was a daily rental, ie Hertz, Avis.  Still has full warrenty and any damage would have to be reported.

Enterprise, and you're correct on the rest. Most dealers, at least the ones I talked to, will not except a car that has been damaged and repaired as they are too hard to get rid of and with today's internet, that info is usually pretty easy to find if a shady dealer is trying to hide it.

4 hours ago, Thinksno said:

Nice car Dale 

Thanks, Bob. 

2 hours ago, pissedoff said:

I'm in the same boat, looking for a car for the wife. What I've researched , gm's with late model 2.4 have piston ring and timing chain  problems, 3.6  3.9  v6 with double overhead cam engines have timing chain problems. Good news 3.5  3.9  overhead valve push rod engines  are good. Impala Lt  Lucerne .

You have to look at the years. The 3.6's, (the earlier ones), did have issues but those have all been corrected. The research I have done (I am anal) shows/says this numerous times and if not, I certainly wouldn't have purchased one myself. https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/gm-36-liter-v6-lgx-engine-john-curley  http://www.motortrend.com/cars/chevrolet/impala/2017/  

 

 

Forgot to mention, for Sksman's sake, this car was built in Canada.  A bit more engine info here: http://gmauthority.com/blog/gm/gm-engines/lfx/

Edited November 5, 2017 by irv

[stealth bomber]

Nice car.  You are correct the timing chain problems were with the earlier overhead cam engines.  I have changed enough of those chains to fill a five gallon pail over the last six years.  Anything newer than 2012 seems ok.  We don't change near as many as we did a couple years ago.  2.4L is a different story, lol.  IMO the main thing is to change the oil frequently, not run it to 0% on the oil life monitor.  And use good oil, not cheap Wallmart stuff.  It will serve you well I'm sure.  

[irv]

58 minutes ago, stealth bomber said:

Nice car.  You are correct the timing chain problems were with the earlier overhead cam engines.  I have changed enough of those chains to fill a five gallon pail over the last six years.  Anything newer than 2012 seems ok.  We don't change near as many as we did a couple years ago.  2.4L is a different story, lol.  IMO the main thing is to change the oil frequently, not run it to 0% on the oil life monitor.  And use good oil, not cheap Wallmart stuff.  It will serve you well I'm sure.  

Thanks Stealth Bomber. I am fairly anal about oil/filter changes so that won't be a problem! I have been running Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic in my hemi for a few years now and will likely continue, if I can, using that in this engine? Different weight, likely, but I guess it has to be Dexos certified/compatible? Funny, without the manual, nor even looking, I don't know what weight I use? I assume 5W-30? I like AC Delco filters but I also have been using CarQuest premium filters in my Hemi as I have heard they are made by Wix anyways? Any help/info would be great........Thanks!

[stealth bomber]

I figured there was no way you would use crap oil.  Just thought I would mention it to shame other people who do, lol.  Choose whatever brand you like that meets the Dexos certification.  Mobil 1 is popular.  5W30.   GM is now switching over to full synthetic, where the old Dexos was a blend.  As for filters, just choose a premium brand. Those cars were eligible for four free oil changes for a period of two years or 40,000 km so you may want to look into that.

[irv]

44 minutes ago, stealth bomber said:

I figured there was no way you would use crap oil.  Just thought I would mention it to shame other people who do, lol.  Choose whatever brand you like that meets the Dexos certification.  Mobil 1 is popular.  5W30.   GM is now switching over to full synthetic, where the old Dexos was a blend.  As for filters, just choose a premium brand. Those cars were eligible for four free oil changes for a period of two years or 40,000 km so you may want to look into that.

Not a chance! I like Pennzoil over Mobil-1 as it usually receives better UOS' (used oil analysis) as seen at bobistheoilguy.com I use Mobil-1 0W-40 European formula in my Vector however, as the Euro formula has a better add pkg than the regular Mobil-1 does here. The Ford dealer did mention something about the free oil changes, but truth be told, I have never used them in any vehicle I have purchased new, including my Ram and my wife's old car, a 2002 Olds Intrigue. I just prefer to do them myself. I appreciate your info! Thanks again. 

[Puzzleboy]

What's wrong with adhering to the oil monitor's schedule?  My car is smart in that it evaluates how it's driven, temps, rpms, load, idle time, etc...... to better advise when to change the oil.  Changing it more often is simply a waste of money.  Good for shops though. 

Oil is the most overthought of item for gearheads, period.   My one ZX 800, I only ran CT Formula Premium 2 stroke oil from new.  $20 a jug or so.  Still had high compression and zero issues at well over 10,000 kms.  Was an interesting trial. 

5 hours ago, stealth bomber said:

Nice car.  You are correct the timing chain problems were with the earlier overhead cam engines.  I have changed enough of those chains to fill a five gallon pail over the last six years.  Anything newer than 2012 seems ok.  We don't change near as many as we did a couple years ago.  2.4L is a different story, lol.  IMO the main thing is to change the oil frequently, not run it to 0% on the oil life monitor.  And use good oil, not cheap Wallmart stuff.  It will serve you well I'm sure.  

 

[Tommy]

18 hours ago, irv said:

Thanks Stealth Bomber. I am fairly anal about oil/filter changes so that won't be a problem! I have been running Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic in my hemi for a few years now and will likely continue, if I can, using that in this engine? Different weight, likely, but I guess it has to be Dexos certified/compatible? Funny, without the manual, nor even looking, I don't know what weight I use? I assume 5W-30? I like AC Delco filters but I also have been using CarQuest premium filters in my Hemi as I have heard they are made by Wix anyways? Any help/info would be great........Thanks!

Speaking of oil changes, does anyone still do their own?

 

I cant be bothered lol. Good buddy of mine does it after hours at the shop he works in. Uses Dexos rated ac delco oil and a wix filter for $35 cash

 

I also do my oil fairly often. After about 6000 km I start to plan the next change but every now and then the interval creeps up to 8000 plus. Just depends how busy I am at the time. 

My 10 silverado is low mileage and in good shape. I plan to keep it that way

Edited November 6, 2017 by Tommy

[Puzzleboy]

I still do my own.  I just don't trust shops, if I can avoid them.... at least if I fuck something up, the culprit is rightly blamed. 

I also do 10,000 kms now on the truck with full syn; the cars I do synthetic also, but go by the monitor.  You also won't get full synthetic changed for $35.  But you can usually get jugs on sale for $30 or so at Crappy's.... Whenever they test full synthetic, it's properties are still intact at 10k. 

[2strokemerc]

On 9/2/2017 at 6:56 PM, snowbear said:

I have a older Impala, 2007, got it with 45000 on it 6 years ago, now has 133000, the only thing I have had to change on it was a faulty oil pressure switch. Brakes yes but you have to change brakes on whatever you drive. I would buy another one. Would like to try the newer style someday 

I've got a 2007 Buick Allure with 240000km. Trouble free, not even close. I've had so many things go wrong I've lost count. Only reason I keep it is because I fix it myself, if I was paying to have it fixed I would have to take it out back and shoot it.

[ZRSledhead]

Long drain intervals are more about making it look more affordable / more attractive when you purchase vs making it live a long life. Same can be said about the oils n grades suggested are more about Cafe numbers vs whats best for your engine.

JMHO

[stealth bomber]

From what I see if you run the car to 0% on the oil life monitor it may be somewhere around 14,000km or even more and often the oil drains out looking like black piss.  I prefer to change mine before it gets to this point.  Ive seen enough piston rings seized due to carbon buildup.  My stuff gets changed around 8000km, but I'm able to do it on my lunch break for minimal cost.  10,000 km I'm sure would be fine too.  I just know the cars that come in with the oil life in the single digits, the oil always looks thinned out and full of carbon.  No thanks.  

[irv]

The only way to tell if your oil is still good is to get a used oil analysis (UOA) done. I ran my 97 Z71 until 11,000 km's, but that was due to the recommendation from Kendall oils. I ran the Kendall Elite full synthetic and you received a free analysis if you did. Every sample I sent in they usually upped the next interval by a 1000 or 2. 

If I didn't run full syn, I would definitely change it out a lot sooner. My Ram, I am usually around 9,000-10,000 or one year, whichever comes first, but I run Pennzoil Ultra which is a full syn as well. 

With my wife's new car, and the fact it's a 6 cylinder and has relatively high compression and H/P, I will likely stick to the 7-8,000 interval, or less, or once a year again despite what the oil life monitor says. Oils cheap, imo. 

For those that are interested, bob is the oil guy .com is a great site to see what people's UOA's are saying. Find an engine/vehicle similar to your's, compare the driving style/environment they're driving in and it should give you a pretty good baseline to go by. Although I have never had my oil analyzed since I used the Kendall Elite years ago, there are places in Canada to get it done such as Blackstone. https://www.blackstone-labs.com/  I have heard good things about them and you will never get clearer info with what is going on in your engine.

[irv]

On 11/5/2017 at 5:01 PM, stealth bomber said:

I figured there was no way you would use crap oil.  Just thought I would mention it to shame other people who do, lol.  Choose whatever brand you like that meets the Dexos certification.  Mobil 1 is popular.  5W30.   GM is now switching over to full synthetic, where the old Dexos was a blend.  As for filters, just choose a premium brand. Those cars were eligible for four free oil changes for a period of two years or 40,000 km so you may want to look into that.

 

On 11/6/2017 at 3:36 PM, Puzzleboy said:

I still do my own.  I just don't trust shops, if I can avoid them.... at least if I fuck something up, the culprit is rightly blamed. 

I also do 10,000 kms now on the truck with full syn; the cars I do synthetic also, but go by the monitor.  You also won't get full synthetic changed for $35.  But you can usually get jugs on sale for $30 or so at Crappy's.... Whenever they test full synthetic, it's properties are still intact at 10k. 

 

On 11/6/2017 at 10:07 PM, stealth bomber said:

From what I see if you run the car to 0% on the oil life monitor it may be somewhere around 14,000km or even more and often the oil drains out looking like black piss.  I prefer to change mine before it gets to this point.  Ive seen enough piston rings seized due to carbon buildup.  My stuff gets changed around 8000km, but I'm able to do it on my lunch break for minimal cost.  10,000 km I'm sure would be fine too.  I just know the cars that come in with the oil life in the single digits, the oil always looks thinned out and full of carbon.  No thanks.  

I purchased some Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 oil and a Fram Ultra Guard synthetic oil filter the other day as I wanted to do an oil change on my wife's car despite being told a fresh oil change and filter would be done at the dealer where we bought the car.

I was debating back and forth with myself to leave it until spring but my OCD got the better of me, and I am glad it did! Today, as I was changing the oil and not really paying attention to the color of the oil coming out, I noticed the Fram filter the dealer used was loose! Loose as in I barely touched it, barley laid my hands on it loose!  In all the years I have been doing oil changes for myself and some others, I have never come across a loose filter like this before! I have no doubts in my mind this filter would have failed, come completely loose in just a matter of time, or well before spring.

As I was decanting my used oil into some empty jugs for disposal, it dawned on me then, that this oil is waaay too dark/black for only having a couple hundred KM's on it! This past week as I was checking the oil level in the car, it seemed down a 1/4/1/2 a ltr on the dipstick but since our driveway is sloped/graded, I thought that was likely the cause? My conclusion is, the dealer just replaced the filter as that is what I or another buyer will see giving the  false belief that likely the oil was changed too. Needless to say, I am glad I didn't wait around until spring as one, I highly doubt the filter would have stayed on, and 2, I had no idea how many miles were actually on this oil. Say what you will, Tommy, and others, but I believe more than ever now, doing your own oil changes, and other things mtce wise, has it's benefits other than just the amount of money you save.