Moto X bike info?

[irv]

I finally got around, today, to picking up my deceased buddy's Moto X bike.

It likely hasn't ran in over 5 yrs, and I am likely the last guy who rode it? Anyways, I believe it is a 92 (YZ-250) but how do I find out what year for sure? 

I plan on tearing it a part and going over everything, but it would be nice to have a manual. Any place, on line or otherwise, where I could get one? I am going to drain the tank, clean the carb, check reeds, bearings, etc, but is there anything else that I am missing? Throttle/clutch feels fine but should I invest in new cables, or just lube them? I rode years ago, late teens/early 20's, (85 KTM 250) but hardly anything since. I am still not 100% sure what I am going to do with it, but I'd like to get my 15, soon to be 16, a trail bike so we can ride together hopefully.

Also, note the yellowing on the tank. Is there a way to reduce that or get it white again? My gut tells me I may be able to get it better looking but white/brand new looking is out of the question? Any tips, info, or some good sites/forums would be appreciated.

Thanks. 

[racinfarmer]

Scrub the outside of the tank down with Simple Green and fill the tank with bleach and some blue food coloring.

Edit: I feel the need to elaborate a bit more.  Assuming it is a HDPE tank, scrub the outside with Simple Green or Foamy Engine Brite.  Once done, fill the tank with water, bleach, Oxyclean, and some blue food coloring.  It won't get rid of the yellow, but it will help some.  The yellow is inside the plastic from fuel absorbing into it, not on the surface.  

Edited May 7, 2017 by racinfarmer

[Rigid1]

Any Yamaha dealer will run the Vin and give you the history of the bike..

 

 

[DriftBusta]

Looks like a 93.  You will want to get fresh fluids in there, motor, gas obviously.  Take the carb all apart, let the jets soak in something like Seafoam or similar solvent.  Clean the filter.  Get a cable luber, and douche out the clutch cable with contact cleaner, then with WD40 or regular cable lube.  Same for throttle cable.  If you're gonna ride it and be really throrough, take apart the rear linkage and swingarm bearings.  If anythings shot, good time to replace it.  Have fun!  Never heard that trick for the fuel tank before, but you should be able to get that whitened up again with some soft scrub or bleach of some kind.

[irv]

38 minutes ago, racinfarmer said:

Scrub the outside of the tank down with Simple Green and fill the tank with bleach and some blue food coloring.

Edit: I feel the need to elaborate a bit more.  Assuming it is a HDPE tank, scrub the outside with Simple Green or Foamy Engine Brite.  Once done, fill the tank with water, bleach, Oxyclean, and some blue food coloring.  It won't get rid of the yellow, but it will help some.  The yellow is inside the plastic from fuel absorbing into it, not on the surface.  

I didn't know/realize that! Thanks for the tip! 

11 minutes ago, Rigid1 said:

Any Yamaha dealer will run the Vin and give you the history of the bike..

 

 

The VIN should also have the year in it, shouldn't it? My buddy purchased it used years ago from, I believe, a guy who raced it? I really don't care much about the history, I am just trying to figure out the exact year so I can grab a manual and the correct parts if needed. 

Thanks just the same. 

[racinfarmer]

2 minutes ago, irv said:

I didn't know/realize that! Thanks for the tip! 

If it was me, I'd take the tank off the bike  and give it a good scrub with Foamy Engine Brite or Simple Green.  Once you are done with that, take a peek inside and see if there is any varnish in there.  If there is, a handful of nuts and washers with a half gallon of gas.  Shake every so often and rotate.  I'd skip the bleaching at the moment.  

[Rigid1]

2 minutes ago, irv said:

I didn't know/realize that! Thanks for the tip! 

The VIN should also have the year in it, shouldn't it? My buddy purchased it used years ago from, I believe, a guy who raced it? I really don't care much about the history, I am just trying to figure out the exact year so I can grab a manual and the correct parts if needed. 

Thanks just the same. 

Yep, they can give you the entire history of the bike, year, make, model #, previous owners, and even the little japs name that assembled it at the factory 

[irv]

2 minutes ago, DriftBusta said:

Looks like a 93.  You will want to get fresh fluids in there, motor, gas obviously.  Take the carb all apart, let the jets soak in something like Seafoam or similar solvent.  Clean the filter.  Get a cable luber, and douche out the clutch cable with contact cleaner, then with WD40 or regular cable lube.  Same for throttle cable.  If you're gonna ride it and be really throrough, take apart the rear linkage and swingarm bearings.  If anythings shot, good time to replace it.  Have fun!  Never heard that trick for the fuel tank before, but you should be able to get that whitened up again with some soft scrub or bleach of some kind.

I was thinking either 92 or quite possibly a 93 myself. Definitely going to go over it real good and do those things you say. It's been years since I had one all apart but I am looking forward to doing all that again.

I assume parts are still easily/readily available?  Any idea where to download a service manual? It was easy for the sleds, just hope it's the same for this bike as well?

What lubes should I run? I was thinking back to Bel-Ray an go with Klotz for the mix? Anything newer/better out there nowadays?

[irv]

1 minute ago, racinfarmer said:

If it was me, I'd take the tank off the bike  and give it a good scrub with Foamy Engine Brite or Simple Green.  Once you are done with that, take a peek inside and see if there is any varnish in there.  If there is, a handful of nuts and washers with a half gallon of gas.  Shake every so often and rotate.  I'd skip the bleaching at the moment.  

Oh, it's definitely coming off, as are most other parts. Wasn't aware of the nuts/washes trick, but I'll give that a go as well. Surprisingly the gas doesn't smell bad/rotten, but I am not even going to try and fire it up before everything is drained and gone over first. 

1 minute ago, Rigid1 said:

Yep, they can give you the entire history of the bike, year, make, model #, previous owners, and even the little japs name that assembled it at the factory 

Thanks. 

[DriftBusta]

46 minutes ago, irv said:

I was thinking either 92 or quite possibly a 93 myself. Definitely going to go over it real good and do those things you say. It's been years since I had one all apart but I am looking forward to doing all that again.

I assume parts are still easily/readily available?  Any idea where to download a service manual? It was easy for the sleds, just hope it's the same for this bike as well?

What lubes should I run? I was thinking back to Bel-Ray an go with Klotz for the mix? Anything newer/better out there nowadays?

Its been years since I ran 2 strokes, but I'm sure the local bike shop has something good.  Is the motor stock?  If not, if might need 50/50 race gas or it will ping like crazy.  Parts still should be available, they're really not a whole hellava lot different today.  I am  guessing you probably will have to pay for a download on a service manual.  You shouldn't really need one unless you plan on splitting the cases.  Oh yeah, forgot to mention check sprockets and chains, if any of the teeth are rounded off, missing, etc., get a new set and a chain.

Parts:  https://www.shopyamaha.com/parts-catalog/lines/street-mcy

Edited May 7, 2017 by DriftBusta

[snatchslayer]

Nice bike .  I believe the guys gave you the info you needed . I restored an 80 yz250 6 speed years ago.  Turned out great.  Awesome hill climb bike with that long stroke.  Good luck on your endavers 

[small-bore]

2 hours ago, irv said:

I didn't know/realize that! Thanks for the tip! 

The VIN should also have the year in it, shouldn't it? My buddy purchased it used years ago from, I believe, a guy who raced it? I really don't care much about the history, I am just trying to figure out the exact year so I can grab a manual and the correct parts if needed. 

Thanks just the same. 

It's the 10th digit on your serial number. 

[irv]

2 hours ago, DriftBusta said:

Its been years since I ran 2 strokes, but I'm sure the local bike shop has something good.  Is the motor stock?  If not, if might need 50/50 race gas or it will ping like crazy.  Parts still should be available, they're really not a whole hellava lot different today.  I am  guessing you probably will have to pay for a download on a service manual.  You shouldn't really need one unless you plan on splitting the cases.  Oh yeah, forgot to mention check sprockets and chains, if any of the teeth are rounded off, missing, etc., get a new set and a chain.

Parts:  https://www.shopyamaha.com/parts-catalog/lines/street-mcy

I believe the motor is stock, but no way of knowing unless I take the head off? I don't believe my bud ever ran race gas so I think I am good there. I will keep an eye out for a service manual, but like you said, not a lot has changed and it isn't my first rodeo either. Chain and sprockets for sure, as anything else it needs. What's new tires worth nowadays anyways? The rear one has seen a better day but I could reverse it to get a bit more mileage out of it I guess? 

Thanks for the link.  

1 hour ago, xcr700 said:

Nice bike .  I believe the guys gave you the info you needed . I restored an 80 yz250 6 speed years ago.  Turned out great.  Awesome hill climb bike with that long stroke.  Good luck on your endevours. 

Thanks! 

18 minutes ago, small-bore said:

It's the 10th digit on your serial number. 

Thanks! 

[DriftBusta]

Tires are crazy expensive now, close to a hundred bucks each for a f and r.  I always had a hook up, and miss that, but the days of 50-60 buck tires are long gone.  Hard to go wrong with a set of Dunlop MX52s    Be sure you have good gear too, most of my scars are from screwing around on a dirt bike in street clothes    

 

[irv]

4 hours ago, racinfarmer said:

Scrub the outside of the tank down with Simple Green and fill the tank with bleach and some blue food coloring.

Edit: I feel the need to elaborate a bit more.  Assuming it is a HDPE tank, scrub the outside with Simple Green or Foamy Engine Brite.  Once done, fill the tank with water, bleach, Oxyclean, and some blue food coloring.  It won't get rid of the yellow, but it will help some.  The yellow is inside the plastic from fuel absorbing into it, not on the surface.  

Racinfarmer, I am beginning to question your theory about gas from the inside causing this yellowing/staining? I just went out and tried a Magic Erasure, with limited results, and noticed the right side of the tank is not as yellow as the left. My gut tells me, it is sun stained and IIRC, my bud replaced the plastic rad shrouds and that is why they are not yellowed/stained? I may try some wet/dry sandpaper as I seen on Youtube and see how that works, or try some other things.

20 minutes ago, DriftBusta said:

Tires are crazy expensive now, close to a hundred bucks each for a f and r.  I always had a hook up, and miss that, but the days of 50-60 buck tires are long gone.  Hard to go wrong with a set of Dunlop MX52s    Be sure you have good gear too, most of my scars are from screwing around on a dirt bike in street clothes    

 

Then they're likely $200+ up here! IIRC, I think I was paying close to $100 for tires years ago, but maybe I'm mistaken? Thanks for the Dunlop suggestion.

Full gear for sure! That will be pricey, but it's a necessity, especially at my age and the years that have passed since I have ridden last.   

[racinfarmer]

43 minutes ago, irv said:

Racinfarmer, I am beginning to question your theory about gas from the inside causing this yellowing/staining? I just went out and tried a Magic Erasure, with limited results, and noticed the right side of the tank is not as yellow as the left. My gut tells me, it is sun stained and IIRC, my bud replaced the plastic rad shrouds and that is why they are not yellowed/stained? I may try some wet/dry sandpaper as I seen on Youtube and see how that works, or try some other things.

Then they're likely $200+ up here! IIRC, I think I was paying close to $100 for tires years ago, but maybe I'm mistaken? Thanks for the Dunlop suggestion.

Full gear for sure! That will be pricey, but it's a necessity, especially at my age and the years that have passed since I have ridden last.   

It should be yellowed more on one side then the other if it was exposed to more sunlight.  

Ever seen a old race sled with the clear tank?  They are stained or yellowed at the level of fuel left in the tank, but can also be yellowed out by the sun as well.  

It is natural PE, so there is no colorant in it to do funky things when exposed to UV.

[irv]

24 minutes ago, racinfarmer said:

It should be yellowed more on one side then the other if it was exposed to more sunlight.  

Ever seen a old race sled with the clear tank?  They are stained or yellowed at the level of fuel left in the tank, but can also be yellowed out by the sun as well.  

It is natural PE, so there is no colorant in it to do funky things when exposed to UV.

I checked out a bunch of vids and I am going to try a few things, but I highly doubt I'll ever get it white again like the shroud and other areas. I have thought of Plasti dip but don't know if it comes in white or if it will just wear off after the first ride? Either way, I'm not overly worried about but I thought if I could get it whiter easily, it's be worth the effort. 

Thanks again for your help. 

[racinfarmer]

31 minutes ago, irv said:

I checked out a bunch of vids and I am going to try a few things, but I highly doubt I'll ever get it white again like the shroud and other areas. I have thought of Plasti dip but don't know if it comes in white or if it will just wear off after the first ride? Either way, I'm not overly worried about but I thought if I could get it whiter easily, it's be worth the effort. 

Thanks again for your help. 

Only way to really fix it is to buy a new tank.  

[irv]

10 minutes ago, racinfarmer said:

Only way to really fix it is to buy a new tank.  

I don't even want to know the price of that up here! 

[racinfarmer]

3 minutes ago, irv said:

I don't even want to know the price of that up here! 

$440usd at Beeline Yamaha.  Makes sled tanks seem not so bad.  

[irv]

2 minutes ago, racinfarmer said:

$440usd at Beeline Yamaha.  Makes sled tanks seem not so bad.  

That's crazy! With the current exchange rate, let alone what we CDN's usually pay up here, that would be close to a $1000.00 dollar touch!! 

[irv]

Finally had some time to get started on the mtce/clean up. Took the carb off and noticed only 1 float bowl screw! I wanted to remove it but I think I will leave it alone as it looks like the bolt is broke off inside there.

No surprises yet, all looks fairly decent, other than a wrong size fastener here and there. The smell of the gas almost made me throw up! It was cross between orange and yellow and it took my breath away!

Going to flush it, pour some Sea Foam in the carb and let it soak. Mostly dirt/grime/grease to clean up then some reassembly. Still don't know if I want to go through all the hassle of getting it plated, a permit, ownership, trail pass, gear and all that? Seems like a big hassle for a bike I may occasionally ride? Oh yeah, found out it was made in 10/91 so the bike is definitely a 92. 

[DriftBusta]

wow, I'd put 4 new ones, and probably a fresh new pilot wouldn't be a bad idea.  Only cost a few bucks.  I had an old KLX I was bringing back to life like that, and just couldn't get it to idle or run right.  Cleaned the stock pilot several times, finally put a new one in, problem solved.  Looks like a fun project.  

[f7ben]

You'll put your damn eye out with that thing

[small-bore]

On 2017-5-7 at 10:00 PM, irv said:

I don't even want to know the price of that up here! 

I just prised one at the local Yamaha dealer. 500 bucks. That doesn't include a petcock or gas cap. If you need a new tank try eBay and get an aftermarket one for half that price.