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wrenchin sleds !!!!!!!!!!!!!111111111111 not beginner lessons!!11


f7ben

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1 minute ago, teamgreen02 said:

16

Are you planning a turbo??? Nitrous or a big bore?????    How in the fuck are you going to deal with the 10 year old girl levels of power they produce? 

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12 minutes ago, f7ben said:

One of our friends here had asked me how I go about servicing a diamond drive.......I typed this up for him and thought I would share

 

 

So , for the first time I would pull the unit and remove the cover so you can have a look at the bearings and seals. With that low miles I would assume they will be all good but its nice to know for sure.

After you have inspected everything and are satisfied with the mechanical condition reassemble the unit with a new gasket and apply a think layer of gasket seal to both surfaces of the gasket. It is important to use a factory gasket because the bearings have tight clearances and not having a factory gasket there causes it to have some axial load applied from over tightening and not enough clearance.

Once assembled I like to fill with diesel fluid. Do not use any solvent to clean it as you dont want to totally wipe the bearings.

When you fill with diesel put the plug back in ......put the secondary bolt in and then run the thing on a drill for a bit like a minute or two. This will get every little micro bit of metal and abrasive out of there.

Dump the diesel fluid .....you will notice it is gray and gritty.

After this I like to fill it with synthetic atf and then run on the drill again.......get everything coated well in atf and rinse the diesel out as well. Dump this fluid after you have run it around a bit.

Final step is to fill to the fill line with whatever fluid you plan to run. I ran an import specific ATF in full synthetic. I will drain and refill half way through the season and my sleds dont see a pile of miles.

 

This is only my method and some may disagree or have other ways. 

Non-reverse DD?

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3 minutes ago, f7ben said:

I would do either the same way......what would lead you to do anything different with a reverse DD? 

Only pulled one apart years ago and I don't remember there being a seal between the halves.  

I'm young and energetic with a good back and prefer to throw the sled from side to side draining and filling.  

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6 minutes ago, racinfarmer said:

Only pulled one apart years ago and I don't remember there being a seal between the halves.  

I'm young and energetic with a good back and prefer to throw the sled from side to side draining and filling.  

Yes....there is a factory gasket between the case halfs on both........I just did one of each this summer. Its possible that cat did not use a gasket on the very early build ones as I may recall something like that but they all use it as far as I know 

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Does anyone know why on a 2008 Polaris 700 the driveshaft would have a grease zerk but the bearing is a sealed one? It is the one under the secondary clutch

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1 minute ago, Tomas. said:

Does anyone know why on a 2008 Polaris 700 the driveshaft would have a grease zerk but the bearing is a sealed one? It is the one under the secondary clutch

Speedo

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6 minutes ago, Tomas. said:

Does anyone know why on a 2008 Polaris 700 the driveshaft would have a grease zerk but the bearing is a sealed one? It is the one under the secondary clutch

 

4 minutes ago, f7ben said:

Speedo

 

3 minutes ago, f7ben said:

Just a guess

I think that is a good guess and I agree.

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Got most of the major preseason stuff done today. Cleaned the power valves, adjust cables (off by 2 mm), changed plugs, changed chaincase oil, put on spare belt, and installed spare plug holder.

Need to do the clutches once my puller comes in.  Was going to pull the secondary apart but I think I'm just going to clean up the sheaves instead.  Rear storage bag comes in tomorrow.  Need to order registration stickers this week.

Last stuff is to check ski alignment, track tension, track alignment, and set up shocks. 

By the way, who the hell puts the chaincase behind the oil tank?

20180930_172725.jpg

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9 minutes ago, f7ben said:

Yes decent upgrade....not great shocks but better than the adrenaline shocks

The TNTs are rebuildable...don't believe the Adrenalines are.

Then there are these...not sure what he is asking.....

 

IMG_4323.thumb.JPG.15c8e3a2dd7267736bc9d4e40f48dbbf.JPG

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5 minutes ago, Jimmy Snacks said:

The TNTs are rebuildable...don't believe the Adrenalines are.

Then there are these...not sure what he is asking.....

 

IMG_4323.thumb.JPG.15c8e3a2dd7267736bc9d4e40f48dbbf.JPG

If the TNTs are rebuildable I would skip the kybs.

I would just run what's on there. You will bend the shit out of thay tin can quickly if you try and ride it hard

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9 minutes ago, f7ben said:

If the TNTs are rebuildable I would skip the kybs.

I would just run what's on there. You will bend the shit out of thay tin can quickly if you try and ride it hard

I may have sunk a sled but I don't hit shit there Count Malachi but thanks for the info.  🙄

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8 minutes ago, Angry ginger said:

the tnt rebuildables and later x shocks are pretty similar but you have rebound adjustment on the x shocks.  id prob just send the tnt shocks out have them rebuilt and valved for your weight for the same money

Probably the best idea...can them all done by Ian for around 200 bucks.

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46 minutes ago, teamgreen02 said:

Got most of the major preseason stuff done today. Cleaned the power valves, adjust cables (off by 2 mm), changed plugs, changed chaincase oil, put on spare belt, and installed spare plug holder.

Need to do the clutches once my puller comes in.  Was going to pull the secondary apart but I think I'm just going to clean up the sheaves instead.  Rear storage bag comes in tomorrow.  Need to order registration stickers this week.

Last stuff is to check ski alignment, track tension, track alignment, and set up shocks. 

By the way, who the hell puts the chaincase behind the oil tank?

20180930_172725.jpg

 

Just remove the lower5 or 6 screws that you can see and let the fluid drain out

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