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wrenchin sleds !!!!!!!!!!!!!111111111111 not beginner lessons!!11


f7ben

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5 minutes ago, Crotch Lickmeoff said:

I use to powder coat . Did a fuck load of sled parts and rims on the side. Shit will hold up better than paint if its done correctly.  

That was never the argument.  There is no question that PC is sturdier than paint.  

Just now, teamgreen02 said:

Now you are just trolling.

Dude, do you know what powder coating is?  If I missed the part where they bake the parts after spraying, please point it out.  I didn’t watch the whole thing because I already know how they are coated.  

 

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29 minutes ago, Zambroski said:

If you say so.  LOL

Lol, I know so 

22 minutes ago, teamgreen02 said:

Correct.  10-15 minutes in the powder oven at a couple hundred degrees isn't doing anything to aluminum.

HEAT TREATING

 

HEAT TREATMENT
Solution heat treat at 990°F for adequate time to allow for thorough heating and then water quenched. Precipitation hardening is done at 320°F for 18 hours and air cool, followed by 350°F for 8 hours and air cooled.

ANNEALING
Annealing should be done at 775°F for at 2 to 3 hours at temperature, followed by controlled cooling at 50°F per hour down to 500°F then air cooled.
AGING
The aging precipitation heat treatment is done at 350°F for 8 hours followed by air cooling. This produces the T6 temper.

Exactly.  10-15 minutes at 350°-375° (which is what a powder coating oven cure temps are) isn't even remotely close to hurting the structural integrity of aluminum. 

 

I've had college metallurgy classes. :bc:

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36 minutes ago, Zambroski said:

That was never the argument.  There is no question that PC is sturdier than paint.  

Dude, do you know what powder coating is?  If I missed the part where they bake the parts after spraying, please point it out.  I didn’t watch the whole thing because I already know how they are coated.  

 

Well, I’m no expert.  Just going by what I was told by the last PC I used that did commercial coatings.  Plus, there’s been a few fucked up sled parts by some powder coating on forums over the years.  Tails seem to do the worst.  Maybe they are heated too high?

Still, my point stands, painting holds up perfectly fine.

10 minutes ago, SVT MXZ XRS said:

Lol, I know so 

Exactly.  10-15 minutes at 350°-375° (which is what a powder coating oven cure temps are) isn't even remotely close to hurting the structural integrity of aluminum. 

 

I've had college metallurgy classes. :bc:

 

Ok, but still, the parts are painted from the factory.  NOT POWDER COATED.

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13 minutes ago, Zambroski said:

Well, I’m no expert.  Just going by what I was told by the last PC I used that did commercial coatings.

 

 Plus, there’s been a few fucked up sled parts by some powder coating on forums over the years.  Tails seem to do the worst.  Maybe they are heated too high?

Still, my point stands, painting holds up perfectly fine.

Ok, but still, the parts are painted from the factory.  NOT POWDER COATED.

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We know :lmao:

 

Been using the same powder coating guys for almost 20 years.  Never had any issues, and they've done all kinds of aluminum parts for me for sleds and cars. They powder coat aluminum wheels all the time (like all other powder coat places do and all kinds of wheel manufacturers do).  Do you think they would be powder coating aluminum wheels if there was any chance it was affecting the structural integrity of the wheel? I'll answer that one for you, no they sure as fuck wouldn't.   If places are having issues with aluminum failing after powder coating. It's because of to high of heat and in the over for to long.  350-375° isn't doing squat to aluminum.   Like TG02 posted, it would take hours at those temps to have any affect on aluminum.  They're in the bake over for 10-15 minutes max to cure powder coating. 

 

 

I never said anything about anything coming from the sled manufactures with PC on it.  But the paint they use is a hell of a lot better that Krylon rattle can :lol:

Edited by SVT MXZ XRS
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On 9/5/2019 at 7:32 PM, Zambroski said:

They’ll be done right.  There’s no reason at all to powder coat some of this stuff.  Never really understood why people got into that mind set.

I wouldnt powdercoat a set of wheels for anything that is going to be performance based. There is certainly is molecular change to the aluminum. It may be minuscule but it does occur.

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19 minutes ago, SVT MXZ XRS said:

We know :lmao:

 

Been using the same powder coating guys for almost 20 years.  Never had any issues, and they've done all kinds of aluminum parts for me for sleds and cars. They powder coat aluminum wheels all the time (like all other powder coat places do and all kinds of wheel manufacturers do).  Do you think they would be powder coating aluminum wheels if there was any chance it was affecting the structural integrity of the wheel? I'll answer that one for you, no they sure as fuck wouldn't.   If places are having issues with aluminum failing after powder coating. It's because of to high of heat and in the over for to long.  350-375° isn't doing squat to aluminum.   Like TG02 posted, it would take hours at those temps to have any affect on aluminum.  They're in the bake over for 10-15 minutes max to cure powder coating. 

 

 

I never said anything about anything coming from the sled manufactures with PC on it.  But the paint they use is a hell of a lot better that Krylon rattle can :lol:

1st.  Well, no fucking shit, Sherlock.  

2nd.  That wasn’t for you.  Pay attention!!!  And I never once said rattle can stuff is better than anything done at the factory, or better than PC.  I simply said it works fine and is plenty sturdy for track/trail.

Shit, fool...you could prolly have your spindles and A-arms made of glass and not crack it the way you ride.  Do you have a flowery basket on the front?  Get a red one!!!!  :lol:

 

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Just now, f7ben said:

I wouldnt powdercoat a set of wheels for anything that is going to be performance based. There is certainly is molecular change to the aluminum. It may be minuscule but it does occur.

PC everything is real popular at Dootalk.  That and sled wraps.

:lol:

 

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3 minutes ago, Zambroski said:

1st.  Well, no fucking shit, Sherlock.  

2nd.  That wasn’t for you.  Pay attention!!!  And I never once said rattle can stuff is better than anything done at the factory, or better than PC.  I simply said it works fine and is plenty sturdy for track/trail.

Shit, fool...you could prolly have your spindles and A-arms made of glass and not crack it the way you ride.  Do you have a flowery basket on the front?  Get a red one!!!!  :lol:

 

Tuck your tail, and run, don't walk, away from this one.  Just face it, 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Just now, f7ben said:

I cant believe I havent been banned for life from dootalk lolz

You must not have run into the right mod yet.  

Just now, SVT MXZ XRS said:

Tuck your tail, and run, don't walk, away from this one.  Just face it, 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Run from what?  You are making an argument on my side I’m not defending.

Marines.  Hit the beach, Jar Head!!!!!!

:lol:

 

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7 minutes ago, awful knawful said:

Dootalk is full of cunts!

Easily offended pussies!!

Over moderated by know nothing chest thumpers!!!

😁:lol:

It’s still that way? I guess some things never change. One year I paid up for the T shirt and lounge access. What a bunch of fucking babies. Logged in maybe twice in the last 12 years 

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4 minutes ago, awful knawful said:

Dootalk is full of cunts!

Easily offended pussies!!

Over moderated by know nothing chest thumpers!!!

😁:lol:

Been a while since I’ve been over there but, yeah, they were an awfully sensitive bunch and their moderators used to be pretty famous for being overzealous brand champions.  

Still, if you can weed through the retards, there are some really good tuners.

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On 9/11/2019 at 9:37 PM, Zambroski said:

Been a while since I’ve been over there but, yeah, they were an awfully sensitive bunch and their moderators used to be pretty famous for being overzealous brand champions.  

Still, if you can weed through the retards, there are some really good tuners.

Thread over there now on reliability/ durability of the 850.

One guy arguing with me says there's only been enough to count on one hand (5)!!

All the ones I'm reading about are the same ones over and over!

:lol2:

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1 hour ago, awful knawful said:

Thread over there now on reliability/ durability of the 850.

One guy arguing with me says there's only been enough to count on one hand (5)!!

All the ones I'm reading about are the same ones over and over!

:lol2:

You'll never get an honest answer  there.   I've seen legit guys winth major problems have their threads closed because it was negative about doo.  

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So I am hopefully picking up a 2008 Polaris rmk parts sled today. A couple of the things I am hoping to use off of it is the seat and tank.

I currently ride a 2008 Polaris switchback. On the switchback there is a coolant crossover pipe that sits on the top side of the tunnel right behind the fuel tank. This little gem is stopping me from using my fancy tunnel bag that I had on my 2010 switchback.

So my question is that is there a way to "delete" or re route that cross over hose and run the slimmer rmk seat and tank So I can use my tunnel bag?

Pictures to try and show the difference. These are not my sleds but are the same as what I have.

 

@AKIQPilot?

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122817_dragon_BIG.jpg

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44 minutes ago, Angry ginger said:

unless you replace the tunnel cooler with a later model that has the crossover inside the tunnel i don't believe you can do that. 

 

32 minutes ago, Tomas. said:

Well that's lame

Yes the cooling systems on these two sleds are totally different from one another.  If I remember correctly the SB tunnel coolers are built into the tunnel and not removable.  If you have adequate snow/cold in your area you might be able to abandon the two short tunnel coolers and connect the crossover tube at the rear instead of running through the tunnel coolers.  Obviously this would only work if the rest of the cooling system was capable of keeping the engine cool.  

As an experiment, you could remove the hose right behind the seat and connect it to the rear hoses coming from the running board coolers using 2" long nipples.  IF this was adequate cooling in the beginning of the year it should work for the rest of the year.  

Other than that you are down to building a new cooler that fits at the end of the tunnel and connects the left and right side of the system.  Similar to whats there but moved all the way in the back.  

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Do you know if the seats are interchangeable? Like leave the fuel tank and just swap the seat? I miss the IQ raw chassis my 2010 SB was and I am trying to convert my 2008 lol. Sb are rare out here in mountain country and are generally expensive when you do find one

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Just now, Tomas. said:

Do you know if the seats are interchangeable? Like leave the fuel tank and just swap the seat? I miss the IQ raw chassis my 2010 SB was and I am trying to convert my 2008 lol. Sb are rare out here in mountain country and are generally expensive when you do find one

Let me see if I can tell by looking at the parts diagram.  

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It appears they are very similar in the way they attach to the tank.  They use the exact same bracket at the front of the seat to attach.  They use the exact same support at the rear of the seat.  I think the seats are interchangeable.  

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