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Yamaha Sidewinder


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22 minutes ago, Sedz said:

Here's another one. I'm worried the dealer sold him the wrong tall nuts and this is going to happen to all of them. He's got atleast 6 studs missing. 

IMG_0307.PNG

Get them out or start fighting with the dealership before ones threw the heat exchanger. 1 1/4 track? should be 1.325 studs. 

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46 minutes ago, Sedz said:

Here's another one. I'm worried the dealer sold him the wrong tall nuts and this is going to happen to all of them. He's got atleast 6 studs missing. 

IMG_0307.PNG

There needs to be a minimum of 1 1/2 threads exposed above the fiber or steel locking part of the nut for the "locking" part to work.  Maybe a complete retorque is required.  Take it back to the dealer.  Were they new nuts and are they the correct size for the stud.  You can go on the stud manufacturers site for specifications.

Edited by Poncho
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2 minutes ago, Poncho said:

There needs to be a minimum of 1 1/2 threads exposed above the fiber or steel locking part of the nut for the "locking" part to work.  Maybe a complete retorque is required.  Take it back to the dealer.  Where they new nuts and are they the correct size for the stud.  You can go on the stud manufacturers site for specifications.

I can see that happening for sure. I can also see those tall nuts snapping and breaking on hard packed trails with all the torque from the sled too. 

Edited by Reevester
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4 hours ago, Sedz said:

Dads sidewinder decided it didn't like the stud pattern it was given. Taking matters into its own hands...

 

IMG_0306.PNG

See the stud beside the loose one, it appears the one beside it is in safety, that is there appears to be two or so threads above the nut.  I can't tell from the picture for sure but the others do not have any threads exposed.  Any more pictures

Edited by Poncho
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2 hours ago, Poncho said:

There needs to be a minimum of 1 1/2 threads exposed above the fiber or steel locking part of the nut for the "locking" part to work.  Maybe a complete retorque is required.  Take it back to the dealer.  Were they new nuts and are they the correct size for the stud.  You can go on the stud manufacturers site for specifications.

He's running 144 1.5" studs in a 1.25" track. I tried to tell him to stick with the 1.375 but all the cool kids on totalyamaha are running the 1.5. He's having the guy put shorter nuts on the studs.

He also mistakenly bought 48 studboy double backers for a single ply track. If anyone is looking for some new super lite backers let me know.

 

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21 minutes ago, Sedz said:

He's running 144 1.5" studs in a 1.25" track. I tried to tell him to stick with the 1.375 but all the cool kids on totalyamaha are running the 1.5. He's having the guy put shorter nuts on the studs.

He also mistakenly bought 48 studboy double backers for a single ply track. If anyone is looking for some new super lite backers let me know.

 

OK....the shorter nuts will work and get the threaded portion of the stud back into safety, so they won't back off, I hope it helped...cheers

Edited by Poncho
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14 minutes ago, Sedz said:

He's running 144 1.5" studs in a 1.25" track. I tried to tell him to stick with the 1.375 but all the cool kids on totalyamaha are running the 1.5. He's having the guy put shorter nuts on the studs.

He also mistakenly bought 48 studboy double backers for a single ply track. If anyone is looking for some new super lite backers let me know.

 

I hope hes got tunnel protectors in to if hes running 1.5 " studs. He'll fuck himself to if he doesn't run the recommend length if he has any warranty issues. 

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Kind of nice not running studs the last number of years.

Another point to double check seeing as the dealer has a few strikes against him, make sure the studs are for single ply tracks with the thinner shoulder.

Lots of opinions on this, but I though the general consensus was to not use double backers on single ply tracks?

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23 hours ago, Stoney said:

Kind of nice not running studs the last number of years.

Another point to double check seeing as the dealer has a few strikes against him, make sure the studs are for single ply tracks with the thinner shoulder.

Lots of opinions on this, but I though the general consensus was to not use double backers on single ply tracks?

I don't think the sled is a single ply track is it? It's a 137x15x2.86 ripsaw 2. 

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1 hour ago, Sedz said:

I don't think the sled is a single ply track is it? It's a 137x15x2.86 ripsaw 2. 

Sorry, not sure....I just put that thought out there to consider as well to avoid future issues.

17 minutes ago, psledhead said:

You are correct, 2-ply

 

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Nothing to do with the nuts.  The studs are too long.

But no idea why anybody would use those length studs and those nuts on that track.  And as Poncho said, the friction element of a nylock type nut is at the extremity of the nut...... so if you can't see any thread above it...... say bye-bye!!

 

 

On 2017-01-22 at 6:23 PM, Reevester said:

I can see that happening for sure. I can also see those tall nuts snapping and breaking on hard packed trails with all the torque from the sled too. 

Edited by Puzzleboy
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Incorrect.  Woody's Grand Master backers are spec for single ply tracks. 

His nuts are the problem.  :) (At least as far as retention is concerned).

 

On 2017-01-22 at 7:41 PM, Poncho said:

Also, The double washer looks to thick.  The singles have slightly less thickness which would allow the nuts to run down into safety.

Edited by Puzzleboy
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1 hour ago, Puzzleboy said:

Incorrect.  Woody's Grand Master backers are spec for single ply tracks. 

His nuts are the problem.  :) (At least as far as retention is concerned).

 

Shit you are back...problem was solved a week ago, I already made the point about the nuts and grip length issue.....go back to the basement Gimp

Edited by Poncho
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1 hour ago, Puzzleboy said:

Nothing to do with the nuts.  The studs are too long.

 

 

The nuts were the problem. The stud length is fine. A lot of guys are running 1.63's on the 1.25 tracks with no issues.

 

A few are running 1.86

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I've run 1.45's on my 1.25's for 10 years now with no issues, never a pull out in over 15k miles.

 

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1 hour ago, Puzzleboy said:

Nothing to do with the nuts.  The studs are too long.

But no idea why anybody would use those length studs and those nuts on that track.  And as Poncho said, the friction element of a nylock type nut is at the extremity of the nut...... so if you can't see any thread above it...... say bye-bye!!

 

 

incorrect...

 

His issue was nut retention.  In his case, which you can see in the picture, regardless of stud length, could have been avoided by having a dealer that knew what they were doing.   A shorter fiber lock nut would have held that stud safety regardless of whatever stud length was installed.

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9 hours ago, Poncho said:

incorrect...

 

His issue was nut retention.  In his case, which you can see in the picture, regardless of stud length, could have been avoided by having a dealer that knew what they were doing.   A shorter fiber lock nut would have held that stud safety regardless of whatever stud length was installed.

What he said.  The nut is way too big for that stud and loosened off.  

 

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I agreed.  I said as far as retention goes, those nuts were prone to back off as there were no protruding threads. 

But the excessively long studs will definitely cause bending, tear outs, holes in heat exchangers, etc. 

7 hours ago, scottyr said:

What he said.  The nut is way too big for that stud and loosened off.  

 

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