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Sled season prep has begun!


Highmark

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1 hour ago, Tomas. said:

So I got my shocks back from a refresh and installed them in the rear skids today.

When I was done, I noticed the limiter straps on the crossfire were taunt and the straps for my switchback back were loose. My switchback back has had two previous owners and a fair amount of kms on it and the Arctic cat was barely used before I bought it so I figured someone messed around the switchback and the crossfire was still a factory setting.

So I adjusted the polaris to be just taunt at full shock extension. Did I make a mistake and they were supposed to be loose?

This is with both rear skids out of the sleds 

I tend to run my limiter straps as tight as they'll go, or even put a extra couple holes in them to get them tighter.

Ditch running and trail riding though.  

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50 minutes ago, racinfarmer said:

I tend to run my limiter straps as tight as they'll go, or even put a extra couple holes in them to get them tighter.

Ditch running and trail riding though.  

So I am on the complete opposite side of the spectrum lol. What is the benefit to running them that tight? What is the benefit to running them the way I have them now?

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7 minutes ago, Tomas. said:

So I am on the complete opposite side of the spectrum lol. What is the benefit to running them that tight? What is the benefit to running them the way I have them now?

Simple way to think of it is it puts more weight on your skis to aid in turning.  You are effectively putting the weight of the sled on the skis and the back axle.  

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3 minutes ago, racinfarmer said:

Simple way to think of it is it puts more weight on your skis to aid in turning.  You are effectively putting the weight of the sled on the skis and the back axle.  

Hmmm. So deep snow guys want them loose the help with getting up on top of the snow and trail guys want them tight to help carve trails?

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1 hour ago, racinfarmer said:

I tend to run my limiter straps as tight as they'll go, or even put a extra couple holes in them to get them tighter.

Ditch running and trail riding though.  

lol on my deep snow sleds I take them off and put rollers on the rail tips .

I like tve skidoo adjust on the fly system in theory but I think it is only good for like a 1 hole adjustment . Would be nice to have one on a electric rotery shaft roll it tight for ditch and tight trail . And back it way out when fucking off cat walking or running some fresh pow .

Would not be to hard of a system  for a oem to build 

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20 minutes ago, Tomas. said:

Hmmm. So deep snow guys want them loose the help with getting up on top of the snow and trail guys want them tight to help carve trails?

also when it is bottomless and say you are on a side hill you want the whole skid dropped in to that trench equal as poss  . But yeah when real loose you just brap it to hop the fr end up and over what ever is in your way . I.e a log or creek crossings . But now if you want to climb a big steep hill you end up standing way forward and leaning over the bars to keep that sled sort of flat . 

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Installed exhaust valves on the crossfire and switchback today. Had them out for cleaning and the gaskets came in yesterday. Hopefully I measured the apv cable right. If I did, they were still spot on. The polaris valves are so much simpler lol.

Only things I got left to do is throw front shocks and rear suspensions in both sleds, find a speedo sensor for the crossfire and hope that will fix my jumpy and inaccurate speed readings and put on the fancy new mountain seat for the crossfire.

We have snow on the ground and it has been below freezing for a week now. I was hoping for at least another week or two of fall temps for a more pleasant working experience lol. I have an unheated poverty spec shed unlike most of you guys here lmao. 

 

16033101861234904731066280426758.jpg

Edited by Tomas.
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3 hours ago, Jimmy Snacks said:

These showed up yesterday...should improve the skid on my RMK....

 

0DD44ACC-FF18-48DB-A534-17182B466C50.thumb.jpeg.596420a331a04e1f77de90bf64bfac8c.jpeg

Are you going to trail ride it? Not much short of a coupled skid or fresh ribbon is going to help it on the trail. 

 

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On 10/20/2020 at 8:05 PM, Tomas. said:

Hmmm. So deep snow guys want them loose the help with getting up on top of the snow and trail guys want them tight to help carve trails?

Not always.    Too much front of skid ski pressure can make a sled trench or wheelie too much.

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On 10/20/2020 at 7:00 PM, racinfarmer said:

I tend to run my limiter straps as tight as they'll go, or even put a extra couple holes in them to get them tighter.

Ditch running and trail riding though.  

Why not just back off the front track spring pressure?  On my sled that is more than enough. With the spring all the way out and good skis there is no need to pull in the limiter straps.

By pulling in the limiter strap you effectively lose suspension travel on the most critical shock on the whole sled.

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35 minutes ago, teamgreen02 said:

Why not just back off the front track spring pressure?  On my sled that is more than enough. With the spring all the way out and good skis there is no need to pull in the limiter straps.

By pulling in the limiter strap you effectively lose suspension travel on the most critical shock on the whole sled.

I run the front spring as loose as I dare go.  

It still shortens the travel of my front shock, but it is how it seems to work for me.

I will say a 2x4 would ride smoother if you are just out putz'ing around.

Edited by racinfarmer
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1 hour ago, Highmark said:

Not always.    Too much front of skid ski pressure can make a sled trench or wheelie too much.

Interesting. I have never had a sled that wheelied lol. Or I guess set up to do such things lol.

My shocks were beyond ready for a rebuild and the rear was blown and the center had a broken eyelet which had the spring not sitting right. So fresh shocks with the limiter strap actually doing something should be a huge change from last year.

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8 hours ago, Tomas. said:

Interesting. I have never had a sled that wheelied lol. Or I guess set up to do such things lol.

My shocks were beyond ready for a rebuild and the rear was blown and the center had a broken eyelet which had the spring not sitting right. So fresh shocks with the limiter strap actually doing something should be a huge change from last year.

I'm not talking "wheelie" on the trails.   I'm talking front end too high in deep snow....creates less track to snow contact and can make it trench.  To each their own just like trail handling.

Your sled is a teeter totter.   3 contact points.   Pretty easy to assume what sled handling does by changing the stiffness (length) on any of the 3.  

Edited by Highmark
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Got everything back together and took it for its maiden voyage.  Was watching the oil lines for air bubbles and clutches for shiftout so no side panels.  The early Procross panels just don't fit well so I'll leave them off until I go for a real ride.  

Couple small things to do yet but looking good.

List of things I did during the rebuild:

  • New primary clutch (worn rollers in the old one at 6300 miles)
  • New clutch weights
  • Cleaned and inspected secondary clutch, new Delrin washer
  • Checked clutch alignment
  • Rebuilt all shocks
  • New scratcher tips
  • New carbides
  • Replaced chaincase seals (2 bearing, 1 on cover)
  • Replaced all drivetrain bearings
  • Peen and loctited drive shaft to brake caliper bearing (they like to spin the inner race on bearing between shaft)
  • Proper 1/4" stainless torque screws to hold on snowflap instead of those useless rivets
  • Cleaned exhaust valves
  • Checked exhaust valve cable length
  • New fuel filter and clamp
  • Replaced broken exhaust spring
  • New 1.352" Cobra track
  • ~140 Study Boy Pro series single ply track backers, single ply are wider double backers for more traction, 2 doubles, 2 singles pattern
  • New o-rings for shock bushings front and rear
  • Greased skid
  • Couple new idler wheels
  • New torque link (old rubber mount was torn)
  • Fresh chaincase oil
  • Fresh brake fluid (high temp racing DOT4)

Still need to do:

  • Replace one hand grip
  • Track alignment and tension
  • Belt deflection
  • Replace one decal on the belly pan (missing in photo)
  • Siphon out old refuel, replace with fresh
  • Wash and wax

image.thumb.png.dc6336d86ede6f8b50f6cfd78eeb3a3a.png

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25 minutes ago, teamgreen02 said:

Got everything back together and took it for its maiden voyage.  Was watching the oil lines for air bubbles and clutches for shiftout so no side panels.  The early Procross panels just don't fit well so I'll leave them off until I go for a real ride.  

Couple small things to do yet but looking good.

List of things I did during the rebuild:

  • New primary clutch (worn rollers in the old one at 6300 miles)
  • New clutch weights
  • Cleaned and inspected secondary clutch, new Delrin washer
  • Checked clutch alignment
  • Rebuilt all shocks
  • New scratcher tips
  • New carbides
  • Replaced chaincase seals (2 bearing, 1 on cover)
  • Replaced all drivetrain bearings
  • Peen and loctited drive shaft to brake caliper bearing (they like to spin the inner race on bearing between shaft)
  • Proper 1/4" stainless torque screws to hold on snowflap instead of those useless rivets
  • Cleaned exhaust valves
  • Checked exhaust valve cable length
  • New fuel filter and clamp
  • Replaced broken exhaust spring
  • New 1.352" Cobra track
  • ~140 Study Boy Pro series single ply track backers, single ply are wider double backers for more traction, 2 doubles, 2 singles pattern
  • New o-rings for shock bushings front and rear
  • Greased skid
  • Couple new idler wheels
  • New torque link (old rubber mount was torn)
  • Fresh chaincase oil
  • Fresh brake fluid (high temp racing DOT4)

Still need to do:

  • Replace one hand grip
  • Track alignment and tension
  • Belt deflection
  • Replace one decal on the belly pan (missing in photo)
  • Siphon out old refuel, replace with fresh
  • Wash and wax

image.thumb.png.dc6336d86ede6f8b50f6cfd78eeb3a3a.png

Nice work..sounds like you didn’t miss a thing.👍🏼🇺🇸

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23 minutes ago, Jimmy Snacks said:

Nice work..sounds like you didn’t miss a thing.👍🏼🇺🇸

I like to put the time and money in going through my sled in the offseason.  Between riding on the weekends and working during the week, I just don't have time to fix a major breakdown during the week.  In the fall I have plenty of time to be patient and do things correctly.  With no backup sled, breakdowns mean I'm missing riding.

The only thing that worries me is the top end if I put on another 3,000 miles this year.  If something major happens I'll probably just go with a new long block from Cat.  

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3 hours ago, teamgreen02 said:

I like to put the time and money in going through my sled in the offseason.  Between riding on the weekends and working during the week, I just don't have time to fix a major breakdown during the week.  In the fall I have plenty of time to be patient and do things correctly.  With no backup sled, breakdowns mean I'm missing riding.

The only thing that worries me is the top end if I put on another 3,000 miles this year.  If something major happens I'll probably just go with a new long block from Cat.  

Thats exactly how I see it as well.  I really enjoy tinkering on my sleds in the fall.  When Im in my own shop, my own tools, its heated, etc..  :lol:  After December, I barely want to adjust my hand warmers  :lol:  My 850 is ready to go  :bc: 

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57 minutes ago, racinfarmer said:

If you are super lucky like me, you'll for some reason decide to peak down at your pistons whilst cleaning the powervalves and find yourself with the pistons cracked.

I checked.  140 psi in both holes, no scoring on cylinders or pistons.  No cracks, yet anyways.

37 minutes ago, DriftBusta said:

Thats exactly how I see it as well.  I really enjoy tinkering on my sleds in the fall.  When Im in my own shop, my own tools, its heated, etc..  :lol:  After December, I barely want to adjust my hand warmers  :lol:  My 850 is ready to go  :bc: 

LOL, I'm the exact same.  I'll tear it down to the frame in the fall and have a fun time doing it.  In the winter, I don't like taking the side panels off to blow out the clutches.

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