irv Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 I don't have the proper tools to completely tear apart a clutch but I do as much as possible, including this Ulmer clutch kit I installed on my Vector. Other than that and not having the tools to rebuild shocks either, I do as much as possible and couldn't tell you the last time I had any toy, if ever, in a shop? I've got the young lad onto to doing his own mtce, although that is rare nowadays due to a few reasons but with him currently doing Co-Op at a Midas shop, it has rekindled his desire and motivation to learn more. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member BOHICA Posted March 2, 2019 Gold Member Share Posted March 2, 2019 Took a sled down to the bulk and built it back up with a new tunnel. got to where I could to top ends trail side in around an hour. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ActionfigureJoe Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 I'd go through the clutches every fall. Still have all the tools. It's not rocket science. Same with shock tuning and rebuilding. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Jimmy Snacks Posted March 2, 2019 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted March 2, 2019 11 minutes ago, HSR said: I have all the tools to do Poo and Doo clutches. Do you utilize a stand like they do in the video to remove the spider nut and spider or is there some other method? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 I prefer to dial in rpm with springs and helix. Adding weights can make all sorts of fuckery. Sometimes you just have too though like if you add a lot of hp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Jimmy Snacks Posted March 2, 2019 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted March 2, 2019 2 minutes ago, Rod Johnson said: I prefer to dial in rpm with springs and helix. Adding weights can make all sorts of fuckery. Sometimes you just have too though like if you add a lot of hp Tuning is a whole other can of worms...my first step is basic disassembly, cleaning and replacing of worn/broken parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 1 minute ago, Jimmy Snacks said: Tuning is a whole other can of worms...my first step is basic disassembly, cleaning and replacing of worn/broken parts. Just watch you tube videos. Youll get it easy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 If you have an older sled it’s a good idea to replace the primary spring with a new one. They only last so many years then get sagged out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 44 minutes ago, Jimmy Snacks said: Do you utilize a stand like they do in the video to remove the spider nut and spider or is there some other method? I have a clutch fixture holding base that I set in a vice on my steel table.I'll snap a pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ActionfigureJoe Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 43 minutes ago, Jimmy Snacks said: Do you utilize a stand like they do in the video to remove the spider nut and spider or is there some other method? I have a fixture that attaches to the work bench. I believe that I purchased it from SLP. Also have the spider nut removal tool and spider tool. There’s also a machined spider button tool/pliers and the necessary shims that are needed to set the button to tower clearance. Lastly, a roller shaft removal tool is a handy thing to have. Maybe all that was covered in the vid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zambroski Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 43 minutes ago, Jimmy Snacks said: Tuning is a whole other can of worms...my first step is basic disassembly, cleaning and replacing of worn/broken parts. If people just do this much and this much alone...WINNING!!!! I know I'm not alone but, I've seen clutches pulled apart that make me wonder how they even functioned at all anymore. WOW. Pull her, do a basic disassembly, clean and inspection, slap it on and RIDE IT! Do a thorough cleaning/rebuilt/tune this summer after a few hundo on it to see if you want to change things up. Also, on your extra heat exchanger...don't fuck with it. Add scratchers and see where it goes. Mine works fine with the 4 qt system. But...it absolutely needs scratchers when it's hard pack. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainecat Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 Years ago you were lucky to get a season out of a clutch before you needed to rebuild it. I pulled mine off at 5k and it was great. New clutches last these days. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ActionfigureJoe Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, Jimmy Snacks said: Tuning is a whole other can of worms...my first step is basic disassembly, cleaning and replacing of worn/broken parts. A real simple place to start is get yourself a digital gram scale and balance the flyweights. Perhaps it’s better now, but when I clutched sleds the weights could vary as much as 1.5 grams between heavy to light. A matched set of weights makes for a happier and smoother shifting primary. You’ll find that belt to sheave clearances vary quite a bit as well. I set the clearances fairly tight. About .010” with a broken in belt. That also means finding appropriate width belts. They can vary quite a bit. I’d take my calipers down to the dealer and go through his belts to find two of the widest in stock. Then I’d set the clearance to those belts. Small things like that begin to add up. Edited March 2, 2019 by ActionfigureJoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awful knawful Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 2 hours ago, XCR1250 said: I may soon be selling all my shock rebuilding tools including Nitrogen tank, hoses, filler needles, and gas Schrader valve adapters. I'm way up in New Brunswick, Canada 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Crappie Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 (edited) 30 minutes ago, Mainecat said: Years ago you were lucky to get a season out of a clutch before you needed to rebuild it. I pulled mine off at 5k and it was great. New clutches last these days. I'm guessing you are talking about the old Cat hex clutches because we never had that problem with the Polaris clutches. Now my Dad's buddies that worked for and rode Scorpions were another story. Did you know that for years Salsbury clutches had rollers made of Oak? LOL Edited March 2, 2019 by Big Crappie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1jkw Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 I have most Polaris clutch tools what I don't have my friend does. Tuning takes a lot of time and patience, not to mention weights, springs, shims, and helixes. I only ever had one setup that I thought was near perfect, now I just say close enough. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Jimmy Snacks Posted March 2, 2019 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted March 2, 2019 (edited) I just took her for a rip....saying the valving is stiff would a large understatement...wow. 😂 Edited March 2, 2019 by Jimmy Snacks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zambroski Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 26 minutes ago, Jimmy Snacks said: I just took her for a rip....saying the valving is stiff would a large understatement...wow. 😂 yuh...those aren’t really “real” shock absorbers if they have stock valving. They are just something that helps hold the sled together and fills space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Jimmy Snacks Posted March 2, 2019 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted March 2, 2019 (edited) 22 minutes ago, Zambroski said: yuh...those aren’t really “real” shock absorbers if they have stock valving. They are just something that helps hold the sled together and fills space. Perfect description....damn. It also has some big ass C & A's on it with some aggressive Studboy Shapers...proabsnly address that at some point as well. That being said it's a pretty clean sled and she runs like a champ. Edited March 2, 2019 by Jimmy Snacks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer254 Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 27 minutes ago, Jimmy Snacks said: Perfect description....damn. It also has some big ass C & A's on it with some aggressive Studboy Shapers...proabsnly address that at some point as well. That being said it's a pretty clean sled and she runs like a champ. What year? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Contributing Member Jimmy Snacks Posted March 2, 2019 Author Platinum Contributing Member Share Posted March 2, 2019 (edited) 8 minutes ago, racer254 said: What year? 2014...first year for the 128" Edited March 2, 2019 by Jimmy Snacks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hwytohell Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 3 hours ago, Big Crappie said: I'm guessing you are talking about the old Cat hex clutches because we never had that problem with the Polaris clutches. Now my Dad's buddies that worked for and rode Scorpions were another story. Did you know that for years Salsbury clutches had rollers made of Oak? LOL Yup . Remember those so called nylon / plastic shaft liners ?? They would always melt. Smacking the clutch cover so it would release, the clutch cover nut / bolt bend it over retainer . They were pure quality . Didn't the Scorpions use the Dulco designed clutch at some point before cat got them ?? The Rupp primary blower clutch was a decent early crude design . The Yamaha ypz , yxr , yxrc were all decent after bit of aftermarket upgrading. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Crappie Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 16 minutes ago, hwytohell said: Yup . Remember those so called nylon / plastic shaft liners ?? They would always melt. Smacking the clutch cover so it would release, the clutch cover nut / bolt bend it over retainer . They were pure quality . Didn't the Scorpions use the Dulco designed clutch at some point before cat got them ?? The Rupp primary blower clutch was a decent early crude design . The Yamaha ypz , yxr , yxrc were all decent after bit of aftermarket upgrading. I didn't have much experience with the Salsbury's, just remember them having to pull the cover off of the clutch trail side to replace a rollers that broke. I did like the fact that those guys could change jetting by opening the hood and turning a screw on the Tillotson carbs. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaturallyAspirated Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 I do. Just put new rollers in my secondary two weeks ago. Wish I had the gear/spacer holder tool for the jackshaft. I'm gonna get one. Neal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer254 Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, Jimmy Snacks said: 2014...first year for the 128" Awesome. I had one. I thought the 128 was just as good as the 121 through the turns and was better through the bumps. Edited March 2, 2019 by racer254 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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