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Dirty carbs


bladefever

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So, what's the story? Did this machine sit for a long period of time with old gas, are you blaming it on your injector oil, or something else? Do you run Seafoam in your gas, especially before storage, do you syphon the used gas out, etc? I run Seafoam all season, before storage, after startup and make sure, or try to make sure each tank gets a splash. I haven't cleaned carbs in years since doing this. 

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Gas may have sat for 6 months in carbs. Usually the bowls also tarnish also. Just have never seen parts turn black before. Don't run Seafoam but always check my carbs preseason. 

Soaked those parts in the combustion cleaner for about 2 hrs. Works great . 

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Just now, bladefever said:

Gas may have sat for 6 months in carbs. Usually the bowls also tarnish also. Just have never seen parts turn black before. Don't run Seafoam but always check my carbs preseason. 

Soaked those parts in the combustion cleaner for about 2 hrs. Works great . 

I assume it wasn't ethanol free gas? I always try to run that at the end of the season if possible. I pour in a healthy dose of Seafoam at the end of the season as well even though I know there is likely still some in the gas in the tank, run sled for at least 10 minutes then begin to fog the sled. Once sled has stalled due to the fogging, I syphon the remaining gas out of the tank and call it a season. 

I use to clean my XLT carbs every year or at least every 2 years. I ran the Seafoam for a couple/few seasons then tore into my carbs again. Once I had them off, I could not believe how clean they were. That was quite a few years ago and since, like I mentioned, I run Seafoam in almost every tank, I haven't had them apart since. Some people call it snake oil but it works for me. I use it in my sleds, lawnmowers, snowblower, vehicles occasionally, and have never had to clean those carbs either. :bc:

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40 minutes ago, Stoney said:

By chance did some race fuel get mixed in or ran in that sled?

Will have to re-read the owners manual if a high performance Indy Lite GT requires race fuel. I have never seen brass components turn black before?Have seen the green carbs and white sludge many times. 

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1 hour ago, bladefever said:

Will have to re-read the owners manual if a high performance Indy Lite GT requires race fuel. I have never seen brass components turn black before?Have seen the green carbs and white sludge many times. 

I am unsure how long the Indy Lite sat that I purchased but I want to say approx 8 yrs? Regardless, when I tore the carbs apart on it there was no black whatsoever that I recall.

Like you mentioned, green and white sludge, although mine was more of a white dust than sludge, nothing was certainly black so that is a strange one for sure. I don't know if you will be able to make out the slides laying on the engine, but they were definitely green. 

 

indy carbs1.JPG

Indy carbs.JPG

Indy carbs 2.JPG

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2 hours ago, bladefever said:

Will have to re-read the owners manual if a high performance Indy Lite GT requires race fuel. I have never seen brass components turn black before?Have seen the green carbs and white sludge many times. 

I know from my experience, race fuel if left in a carb causes the carb to have a lot of build up.....I think it has something to do with the rate part of the race fuel evaporates leaving behind this varnish..

So I was thinking the type of fuel that was left in it, might be the reason for what you have found.

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12 minutes ago, Stoney said:

 

So I was thinking the type of fuel that was left in it, might be the reason for what you have found.

Just regular unleaded fuel nothing special for the Red Rat. I should have taken a picture of the float bowls and carb bodies. Both were clean. Only the brass parts had turned black.

You can see some marks on the float arm from a screwdriver I used. The carbs were cleaned before the start of last year.

Screenshot_2019-02-03-20-13-48-1.png

Screenshot_2019-02-03-20-15-12-1.png

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5 minutes ago, bladefever said:

Just regular unleaded fuel nothing special for the Red Rat. I should have taken a picture of the float bowls and carb bodies. Both were clean. Only the brass parts had turned black.

You can see some marks on the float arm from a screwdriver I used. The carbs were cleaned before the start of last year.

Screenshot_2019-02-03-20-13-48-1.png

Screenshot_2019-02-03-20-15-12-1.png

Varnish/sludge, discoloration from ethanol fuel is my guess? :dunno:

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Seen that happen several times with Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer and it wrecked an old generator I had. I tell everybody not to use it and of course no ethanol. Been using Seafoam and E free Super for years now n I havent cleaned any of my 20 carbs lol. Great shit.  

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6 minutes ago, Tinker said:

Seen that happen several times with Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer and it wrecked an old generator I had. I tell everybody not to use it and of course no ethanol. Been using Seafoam and E free Super for years now n I havent cleaned any of my 20 carbs lol. Great shit.  

Stopped using Stab-ll a few years ago I understand Seafoam is not a mechanic in a bottle but if you by it by the gross,it sure saves me alot of time--if administered properly and regularly My gas is ethanol free. But hey people saved $1.50 on a tank of gas.Mercury 4 stroke carbs are the worst.$1000.00 time your done.if they have the parts.

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16 hours ago, Tinker said:

Seen that happen several times with Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer and it wrecked an old generator I had. I tell everybody not to use it and of course no ethanol. Been using Seafoam and E free Super for years now n I havent cleaned any of my 20 carbs lol. Great shit.  

I haven't heard of that before. I think right now I have approximately 3 partial/full bottles of Sta-Bil and maybe a Crappy Tire one as well that I haven't used in years since I started using Seafoam. Guess it's time to just get rid of them and make some shelf space as I likely never use them anyways. 

 

Edit: Meant to say I "HAVEN'T" heard of that before. 

Edited by irv
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1 hour ago, dirtybeacher said:

Best stuff imo 

D8E5F5B1-A4FE-4E6E-B10B-B42A8CD8082C.jpeg

I have heard that is decent stuff but some also refer to it as just extra expensive snake oil.

The thing I like about Seafoam is, it not only keeps fuel fresh/stabilized, it also cleans, protects and dewaters as well.

BENEFITS

  • Helps your entire fuel system run smoother & last longer
  • Cleans fuel injectors & carburetor passageways
  • Cleans intake valves & chamber deposits
  • Lubricates upper cylinders
  • Safe for all gasoline & diesel engines

DIRECTIONS

  • For regular fuel system maintenance, add 1 ounce per gallon.
  • For cleaning, use 2 or more ounces per gallon – the more you add to fuel, the better it cleans! Add when the tank is low to maximize cleaning concentration.
  • For injector cleaning machines, use 50/50 mixed with gas.
  • Use 100% Sea Foam for diesel injector cleaning machines or when priming diesel fuel filters.
  • For 2-stroke pre-mix, add 2 ounces per gallon.
  • When stabilizing fuel for storage, use 1 (one) ounce per gallon of fuel. Sea Foam works to stabilize stored fuel up to 2 years.

TREATMENT RECOMMENDATIONS

  • For cars and trucks driven regularly: add to fuel every 3,000 miles.
  • Small engines: add whenever you refuel.
  • For engine equipment used regularly, add Sea Foam to a fresh tank fill every 3 months or sooner.
  • For all other engines and fuel tanks (not used regularly): Add Sea Foam to every tank of fuel.

SUMMARY

For cleaning a gasoline or diesel fuel system, it’s safe to add more Sea Foam to fuel. In fact, the more Sea Foam you add to fuel, the better it cleans!

Pour Sea Foam in your fuel tank to clean and lubricate your entire fuel system. It works through fuel injectors and carburetors to remove harmful residues and deposits from fuel passageways, intake valves, pistons, and chamber areas.

Made from petroleum ingredients, Sea Foam is safe and effective when used in all types of gasoline or diesel fuels and fuel blends. Sea Foam does NOT contain harsh detergent or abrasive chemicals that can harm your engine or fuel system components.

 
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