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1995 XLT Touring reverse issue


Kivalo

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My brother bought a 1995 XLT Touring for his kids and the reverse works just fine when not under load but put a human on it and then rev up to engagement RPMs and it grinds and won move. We checked tension and also cable stretch both seem fine. None of the gears are stripped in the chain-case.

What should I look at?

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23 minutes ago, Kivalo said:

My brother bought a 1995 XLT Touring for his kids and the reverse works just fine when not under load but put a human on it and then rev up to engagement RPMs and it grinds and won move. We checked tension and also cable stretch both seem fine. None of the gears are stripped in the chain-case.

What should I look at?

It's been years since I installed a reverse kit in my 95 XLT so I am not much help. I assume it is fine in forward? Have you Googled it yet? I know I have instructions somewhere but I am sure you might find your answer doing some searching. Do you have the right amount of gear fluid in there? That's a stretch but I don't know what else to ask. https://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/forums/26-polaris/55477-help-install-reverse-kit-95-xlt.html

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1 hour ago, irv said:

It's been years since I installed a reverse kit in my 95 XLT so I am not much help. I assume it is fine in forward? Have you Googled it yet? I know I have instructions somewhere but I am sure you might find your answer doing some searching. Do you have the right amount of gear fluid in there? That's a stretch but I don't know what else to ask. https://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/forums/26-polaris/55477-help-install-reverse-kit-95-xlt.html

Yes it runs great in forward. And I googled specifics about the reverse like the bolt tension and cable install specifics just to be sure but it seems to be an issue still.

 

Edit: look at you link, thanks! I have checked that but it still grinds.

Edited by Kivalo
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Take the bottom gear off. Look at the inside where it contacts the other gear. The inside dogs have to be square. If they are rounded it will skip out and not lock. Picture is of the forward gear but shows the contact area where reverse meshes on those points. 

Screenshot_2019-01-31-04-38-27-1.png

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4 hours ago, bladefever said:

Take the bottom gear off. Look at the inside where it contacts the other gear. The inside dogs have to be square. If they are rounded it will skip out and not lock. Picture is of the forward gear but shows the contact area where reverse meshes on those points. 

Screenshot_2019-01-31-04-38-27-1.png

I looked at that gear it showed signs of being worn but I didn't think it was that bad. How much wear is too much when it comes to that?

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13 minutes ago, Kivalo said:

I looked at that gear it showed signs of being worn but I didn't think it was that bad. How much wear is too much when it comes to that?

There is some Youtube vids if you haven't watched any of those yet? IIRC, it was pretty tricky to get the fork lined up to make sure it was in the proper location. Any metal chunks on your magnetic dipstick? Watch the second vid first. It is much shorter but might explain your problem?

This is another one which may help more with your problem. It is a lot shorter as well.

 

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1 hour ago, Kivalo said:

I looked at that gear it showed signs of being worn but I didn't think it was that bad. How much wear is too much when it comes to that?

If you have it off. Post a picture. The grinding you hear is it trying to mesh. Its the other gear that gets pushed into the one in the picture that takes all the abuse.

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1 hour ago, bladefever said:

If you have it off. Post a picture. The grinding you hear is it trying to mesh. Its the other gear that gets pushed into the one in the picture that takes all the abuse.

I see what your saying, I'd post a pic but its back together as forward works just fine. In my opinion the wear I saw was normal wear from engaging the reverse but I don't really know.  Also read below...

@irv thanks for the vids, the longer one shows a washer behind the bottom sprocket that I don't recall seeing when we had it apart but then again I wasn't looking for it. I gotta figure tho it would have fallen off since we had the whole thing apart at one point. Assuming for a moment the washer is not in place would that still allow for any engagement of the reverse gear? When the track is hanging free from a stand reverse works just fine, under load however it skips. If the washer is missing could there be enough contact so that it only skips under load or am I barking up the wrong tree with this idea?

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1 hour ago, Kivalo said:

The chain you mean?

No I mean the belt. When the sled is running and the belt is a little too tight it puts a little bit of force on the jackshaft and that doesn't allow the reverse gears to mesh. A way to test if this is the cause is,,,shut sled off,put it in reverse and restart. If it shifts that way it could be the belt is too tight. I fixed a lot of customers sleds back in the day that would install a new belt and not readjust the belt deflection and lose reverse.

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4 minutes ago, HSR said:

No I mean the belt. When the sled is running and the belt is a little too tight it puts a little bit of force on the jackshaft and that doesn't allow the reverse gears to mesh. A way to test if this is the cause is,,,shut sled off,put it in reverse and restart. If it shifts that way it could be the belt is too tight. I fixed a lot of customers sleds back in the day that would install a new belt and not readjust the belt deflection and lose reverse.

Alright then, I will take a look at that. Thanks!  :bc:

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3 hours ago, Kivalo said:

I see what your saying, I'd post a pic but its back together as forward works just fine. In my opinion the wear I saw was normal wear from engaging the reverse but I don't really know.  Also read below...

@irv thanks for the vids, the longer one shows a washer behind the bottom sprocket that I don't recall seeing when we had it apart but then again I wasn't looking for it. I gotta figure tho it would have fallen off since we had the whole thing apart at one point. Assuming for a moment the washer is not in place would that still allow for any engagement of the reverse gear? When the track is hanging free from a stand reverse works just fine, under load however it skips. If the washer is missing could there be enough contact so that it only skips under load or am I barking up the wrong tree with this idea?

I honestly don't know, Kivalo. When I installed mine, via the instructions I had, it worked great so I didn't run into the issue(s) you are encountering. I wish I was more help but I'm sure you'll get it figured out.

Good luck. :bc:

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/31/2019 at 3:11 PM, Kivalo said:

Alright then, I will take a look at that. Thanks!  :bc:

Did you ever get this figured out, Kivalo? If so, what was the problem? 

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I had an XLT with reverse and I constantly had to snug up the reverse linkage as it got miles on it. Just a few turns would cure it and it would slip 500 miles later, few turns, good to go. As a side note, if you lost that washer behind the gear, that would probably be a problem. Pull it apart again and make sure all the pieces match the parts fiche.

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12 minutes ago, s pump said:

I had an XLT with reverse and I constantly had to snug up the reverse linkage as it got miles on it. Just a few turns would cure it and it would slip 500 miles later, few turns, good to go. As a side note, if you lost that washer behind the gear, that would probably be a problem. Pull it apart again and make sure all the pieces match the parts fiche.

Yeah, I'll check that when I get home. Thanks!  :bc:

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