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Culprit

Shop Building Advice

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Lost my long term storage facility.  I am considering building on my property but not certain where to start.  Looking at approx. 24x36.  Needs to be high enough to fit an RV so probably 14ft ceiling..  I would like to keep above freezing, so insulated and heated.  Not planning to use as a primary winter workspace, just parking RV and Sleds.  Do you guys have experience with Pole Barn vs. traditional vs Steel, costs, pros cons etc?

thank you

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42 minutes ago, Culprit said:

Lost my long term storage facility.  I am considering building on my property but not certain where to start.  Looking at approx. 24x36.  Needs to be high enough to fit an RV so probably 14ft ceiling..  I would like to keep above freezing, so insulated and heated.  Not planning to use as a primary winter workspace, just parking RV and Sleds.  Do you guys have experience with Pole Barn vs. traditional vs Steel, costs, pros cons etc?

thank you

I have always heard that pole barn is the most cost effective way, my brother built his this way a couple years ago.

Really not sure why it is cheaper, still pouring a concrete pad, has walls, insulation, windows, doors, etc.....

perhaps consider in floor heat when you build, at least get the pipes installed and install the rest later if you go down that path.

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Pole barn.  In severn township it is a lot less hassle with permits to build one.  My buddy's dad is building a 30x60 beside me as we speak.  A lot less red tape to go through

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24 minutes ago, 04nightfire said:

Pole barn.  In severn township it is a lot less hassle with permits to build one.  My buddy's dad is building a 30x60 beside me as we speak.  A lot less red tape to go through

That makes sense than...just to avoid the township hassle's as much as possible.....

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16 minutes ago, Stoney said:

That makes sense than...just to avoid the township hassle's as much as possible.....

yep.  My buddy just finished building a 70x230 pole barn for a horse training/stalls facility.  Much less red tape to deal with doing it that way

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I should also mention I don't have natural gas.  Need a cost effective heating solution.

I understand some of the cost savings with pole barn is you do not require a poured concrete footing below the frost line, so you save significantly on the concrete.  Not clear on the best/cost effective way to insulate.

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I went w/ a building. 24 x 44 & 10' ceiling. No real problems w/ township other than structure couldn't be taller than the house.

Seeing as I was installing equipment that is heavy & vulnerable to humidity, I wanted a 'sealed' structure.

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6 minutes ago, 1trailmaker said:

Envy I wish I had a big shop 

The OP wants a shop, Fail, not a greenhouse. (j/k) :bc:

  • Haha 2

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8 minutes ago, irv said:

The OP wants a shop, Fail, not a greenhouse. (j/k) :bc:

Its true.:lol:

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1 hour ago, Culprit said:

I should also mention I don't have natural gas.  Need a cost effective heating solution.

I understand some of the cost savings with pole barn is you do not require a poured concrete footing below the frost line, so you save significantly on the concrete.  Not clear on the best/cost effective way to insulate.

Use a tankless oil boiler to heat the radiant floor.....like a NTI.

I would go with spray foam for insulation.

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the obvious problems with a pole barn would be rotting posts and frost heaving ,, not saying don't do it though

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frost shouldn’t be of a concern. Have to get below the frost line with cement piers to set posts on. Rotting wood, I guess eventually could happen. I think they wrapped theirs with a membrane where the posts would be in contact with dirt

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I'm doing a 24 X 30 garage now. Engineered slab for floor. 

Got the "Kit" from TimBer Mart in Dorset. Awesome service. $350 for all engineered drawings and as many copies as I needed. No issues with the permit.

Spent 15 minuets on the computer picking size, how many windows, doors, locations of each and bang. Print out pad and building drawings with a complete bill of material and price list for everything including how much concrete is needed to staples and Tuck Tape.

 

 

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2 hours ago, 04nightfire said:

frost shouldn’t be of a concern. Have to get below the frost line with cement piers to set posts on. Rotting wood, I guess eventually could happen. I think they wrapped theirs with a membrane where the posts would be in contact with dirt

x2....don't be lazy and dig a little bit further....

I am pretty sure wrapping the posts from ground level down is become more common....seen some fence posts lately that have some sort of sock or wrap that ends just above the concrete and above grade. 

1 hour ago, Algonquin Rider said:

I'm doing a 24 X 30 garage now. Engineered slab for floor. 

Got the "Kit" from TimBer Mart in Dorset. Awesome service. $350 for all engineered drawings and as many copies as I needed. No issues with the permit.

Spent 15 minuets on the computer picking size, how many windows, doors, locations of each and bang. Print out pad and building drawings with a complete bill of material and price list for everything including how much concrete is needed to staples and Tuck Tape.

I think it was here, or maybe elsewhere that a guy went that same route through Home Hardware for a garage, maybe a house, and if I am not mistaken, had great reviews.

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39 minutes ago, Stoney said:

x2....don't be lazy and dig a little bit further....

I am pretty sure wrapping the posts from ground level down is become more common....seen some fence posts lately that have some sort of sock or wrap that ends just above the concrete and above grade. 

I think it was here, or maybe elsewhere that a guy went that same route through Home Hardware for a garage, maybe a house, and if I am not mistaken, had great reviews.

I built our house from a home hardware kit. Turned out really well. Also have built a garage from a timbr mart kit. 

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Whatever size you think you need now, double it, especially if you are planning on staying there for a long time.

It hurts the cash flow for a bit now, but you won,t regret that decision down the road, when you realize you should of went bigger, right from the start. 

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8 hours ago, Stoney said:

x2....don't be lazy and dig a little bit further....

I am pretty sure wrapping the posts from ground level down is become more common....seen some fence posts lately that have some sort of sock or wrap that ends just above the concrete and above grade. 

I think it was here, or maybe elsewhere that a guy went that same route through Home Hardware for a garage, maybe a house, and if I am not mistaken, had great reviews.

I started with Home Hardware in Huntsville but the Guy there was a complete incompetent Dick and wasted 3 months of my time.

I got the drawings from T-Mart and hired my own contractors. Started last Monday and putting shingles on today. 

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18 hours ago, grggade said:

the obvious problems with a pole barn would be rotting posts and frost heaving ,, not saying don't do it though

That's why we didn't go w/ it for the shop. Now if it had just been a storage building w/ a gravel floor, a pole barn probably would've been suitable.

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5 hours ago, Frostynuts said:

Whatever size you think you need now, double it, especially if you are planning on staying there for a long time.

It hurts the cash flow for a bit now, but you won,t regret that decision down the road, when you realize you should of went bigger, right from the start. 

To figure out what we needed for size, bro & I got the dimensions of the machines I was getting. Then we made little card board shapes to scale to determine the layout. 

5 hours ago, Algonquin Rider said:

I started with Home Hardware in Huntsville but the Guy there was a complete incompetent Dick and wasted 3 months of my time.

I got the drawings from T-Mart and hired my own contractors. Started last Monday and putting shingles on today. 

No problem w/ HD in Whitby @ the time I had my garage built in Oshawa. Told them the size what I wanted for doors & windows Voila kit was delivered to house. A minor variance to speed up getting the trusses. The truss outfit it Port Perry was backlogged, but they had a bunch that were very close to what I wa going w/. They called to ask me about them & we went w/ the change. 

Contractor had no issues putting it up & it was completed from pouring pad to siding in a month.

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Algonquin rider and revrnd, would you mind PMing a cost breakdown?  Do either of you have high ceilings?

thanks

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20 hours ago, 04nightfire said:

I built our house from a home hardware kit. Turned out really well. Also have built a garage from a timbr mart kit. 

I was thinking that it was you, but was not 100% certain!

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On ‎7‎/‎23‎/‎2018 at 7:22 PM, 04nightfire said:

frost shouldn’t be of a concern. Have to get below the frost line with cement piers to set posts on. Rotting wood, I guess eventually could happen. I think they wrapped theirs with a membrane where the posts would be in contact with dirt

I was talking about the floors heaving from frost and causing issues around doors

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On 7/23/2018 at 8:41 PM, Algonquin Rider said:

I'm doing a 24 X 30 garage now. Engineered slab for floor. 

Got the "Kit" from TimBer Mart in Dorset. Awesome service. $350 for all engineered drawings and as many copies as I needed. No issues with the permit.

Spent 15 minuets on the computer picking size, how many windows, doors, locations of each and bang. Print out pad and building drawings with a complete bill of material and price list for everything including how much concrete is needed to staples and Tuck Tape.

 

 

The Home Depot kit in '99 didn't calculate the concrete, but was very detailed in the materials.

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