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Furnace help


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2 minutes ago, motonoggin said:

Yes. Plumber should call the HVAC guy.

Also there must be some sort of appliance moving union that should move those things around before they are worked on. I mean you could crush your toe easily moving a waterheater

should certainly leave that up to the pros 

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2 minutes ago, spin_dry said:

Bring furnace problems and egos explode. :lol: 

ARE YOU QUALIFIED TO TALK ABOUT EGOS.......PROBABLY SHOULD JUST CALL THE PROS!!!!!!!!11111 DONT WANT ANYONE TO GET KILLED !!!!!PIDOJFVPOIJFPD OVI

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Well this morning I gave the gas valve a few persuasive taps and no dice. 24v goes into the valve and doesn't come out. I deal a lot with Nat gas at work so I am not worried about fucking that up to much lol. 

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13 minutes ago, Tomas. said:

Well this morning I gave the gas valve a few persuasive taps and no dice. 24v goes into the valve and doesn't come out. I deal a lot with Nat gas at work so I am not worried about fucking that up to much lol. 

You will not read 24v on the common side of the valve. Its not a switch....its a coil or load. Did you check the coil on the valve for resistance like I said?

Also when the valve is energized it should be magnetized. You should be able to take a screwdriver and feel the magnetism when the valve is supposed to be open 

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8 minutes ago, f7ben said:

You will not read 24v on the common side of the valve. Its not a switch....its a coil or load. Did you check the coil on the valve for resistance like I said?

Also when the valve is energized it should be magnetized. You should be able to take a screwdriver and feel the magnetism when the valve is supposed to be open 

Neal

Edited by NaturallyAspirated
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Is there anyway I can make sure it is the valve? I found one but it is $260. I am in trade school right now and would prefer not to be wrong and waste the money lol

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16 minutes ago, Tomas. said:

Is there anyway I can make sure it is the valve? I found one but it is $260. I am in trade school right now and would prefer not to be wrong and waste the money lol

Basically all you can do is make sure all the other sensors test out good. Process of elimination. 

 

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21 minutes ago, Tomas. said:

Is there anyway I can make sure it is the valve? I found one but it is $260. I am in trade school right now and would prefer not to be wrong and waste the money lol

If you measure 24VAC across the valve with your meter it should be energized and flowing gas, if not its bad.

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The blue wire going to the valve reads 25v. The grey wire reads 0. When checking continuity across the valve, it reads open. The blue wire comes from the pressure switch and the grey comes from these two blocks. One is a transformer and not 100% on the other but the wiring diagram is on page one of that helps

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2 minutes ago, Tomas. said:

The blue wire going to the valve reads 25v. The grey wire reads 0. When checking continuity across the valve, it reads open. The blue wire comes from the pressure switch and the grey comes from these two blocks. One is a transformer and not 100% on the other but the wiring diagram is on page one of that helps

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The grey is common/ground so it will read 0.  You have 24V accross the valve, it should be open regardless of any other sensor.

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Lol. I have the gas shut off to the furnace. I have had to pull the valve off to change the thermocouple and such so I have it off to be safe till it get it fixed.

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Pull the wires off the gas valve.  Measure the resistance across the two terminals.  If you reading an open circuit ("1" on your multimeter) then that tells you the valve is futched.  

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8 minutes ago, sledderj said:

 

Pull the wires off the gas valve.  Measure the resistance across the two terminals.  If you reading an open circuit ("1" on your multimeter) then that tells you the valve is futched.  

I think he did that already and it read open. So his valve is fucked. He'll get 24v to the valve when it calls and it doesn't fire. Solenoid in the valve is fucked. 

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You look at all of the condensation drains and make sure everything is still draining like it should and not backing up ?  Can you hear any water in the fan motor when it tries to fire up and then shuts off ? All it takes is a small amount of condensation to back up into the fan motor and that thing ain't gonna start

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